How much does scaffolding cost to hire per week?

You could spend anywhere between £200 and £1,500 per week renting scaffolding, depending on how much scaffolding you are looking to hire, across how many floors. Cost of labour also rises in London and the South East, so keep this in mind as well.

If you only need one 10 metre scaffold tower, this could cost you as little as £200 a week to hire, whilst the higher bracket of £1,500 refers more to the cost of hiring enough scaffolding to carry out work on a 4 storey, semi-detached property.

As well as this, you can expect to spend around:

• £600-£800 a week to hire chimney scaffolding
• £100-£150 a week to hire a 5 metre scaffolding tower
• £1000-£1,200 a week to hire enough scaffolding to carry out work on a 2 storey, semi-detached house

These are just general quotes. For a more accurate idea of how much you might spend, speak to a scaffolding specialist today.

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How much does scaffolding cost per day?

Usually, the daily rate for scaffold renting is around 15-30% of the weekly rate.

This means that you could spend anywhere between £30 and £60 a day for a £200 weekly rate, between £90 and £180 a day for a £600 weekly rate, or between £225 and £450 for a £1,500 weekly rate.

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How much is scaffolding per square metre?

As a general guide, you could spend anywhere from £15 per square metre per week to £80 per square metre per week. How much you spend will depend on how complex your project is and how long you plan to rent out your scaffolding for.

Want a more accurate quote? Speak to a scaffolding specialist today.

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What are the three types of scaffolding?

There are three main types of scaffolding structure used in construction. These are:

1. Suspended scaffolding – used to access the vertical sides of a building. Platforms are suspended from an overhead structure (such as a roof) using chains or ropes.
2. Supported scaffolding – the most common type of scaffolding, and is supported by the ground or by a building using vertical and horizontal structures. You can get single scaffolding (usually used for brick buildings) or double scaffolding (usually used for stone buildings). As well as these, you can also get steel scaffolding, constructed using steel tubes that are easy to construct and dismantle.
3. Mobile scaffolding (also known as trestle scaffolding) – consists of a platform with a wheeled base and adjustable legs, designed to move easily so that it can be dismantled and reassembled on different areas of a building.

Which scaffolding structure you’ll need depends on the nature of your project. Your scaffold specialist will be able to advise you on which to get.

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Can I erect my own scaffolding?

Though you can technically erect your own scaffolding in the UK, it’s only on the condition that you comply with all the regulations and safety guidelines outlined by the Health and Safety Executive (HSE). This includes obtaining the necessary permits or licenses you’ll need before starting work.

Ideally, you should also have the relevant competence and CISRS training in scaffolding erection as well as NASC Membership in order to erect your own scaffolding.

You also need to:

• Conduct a thorough Risk Assessment and Method Statement assessment
• Comply with Work at Height Regulations
• Ensure you are complying with Local Authority Requirements

Scaffolding can be hard to build, and can be very dangerous if not erected properly. This is why it is normally recommended that you hire a professional. The government website on scaffolding emphasises the importance of hiring a competent scaffolding contractor to prevent accidents and to ensure public safety.

If you do choose to erect scaffolding yourself, you’ll need the relevant training and permits, which will take time to obtain. You should also ensure you have the right insurance coverage (such as public liability insurance) to protect yourself in case of an accident.

For more information on erecting scaffolding, check out the SG4:22 which outlines crucial steps to follow to erect safe scaffolding.

Why not leave it to the experts? You can hire a skilled scaffolding specialist in your local area here.

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Are DIY scaffold towers safe?

DIY scaffold towers can be safe, as long as they’re assembled and used properly. Working at heights is always going to involve risks, but ensuring safety standards are met on DIY scaffold towers is possible.

As well as complying with the regulations outlined above, make sure:

1. The scaffold tower is high-quality (sturdy, properly connected and in good condition) and that it meets all safety standards
2. The scaffold tower is assembled properly, following all manufacturer’s guidelines and instructions
3. Ensure that you don’t exceed the scaffold’s load capacity, accounting for all workers, tools and materials that will be on the scaffold at any given time
4. Don’t go over the recommended maximum height outlined by the manufacturer
5. Regularly inspect your scaffold tower for any signs of wear, deterioration or damage. By law you must do this before you use it, every 7 days whilst it’s up, and after any alterations or extreme weather conditions. If any parts are damaged, replace them as soon as possible. Keep the tower clean to ensure ongoing stability.

Lastly, always make sure that everyone using the DIY scaffold tower uses protective equipment (hard hats, safety harnesses, non-slip footwear).

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Why is scaffolding so expensive?

The reason scaffolding can get quite expensive is because it needs to meet very stringent safety standards that are in place to protect the tradespeople using it. This means that high quality materials like steel are often used, as they are strong and durable.

On top of this, scaffolding is bulky and requires transportation costs. If you’re renting yours, then the cost to maintain and store the scaffolding will make hiring it more expensive. Due to the risks involved with using scaffolding, costs are sometimes also raised by insurance coverage.

Lastly, scaffolding is also expensive as it requires careful engineering to ensure intended loads are supported and that the scaffolding can withstand environmental factors like heavy winds and storms. Making scaffolding is also a precise process that requires several different components (frames, braces, platforms, connectors) that all need to be manufactured to high standards, therefore raising production costs.

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What can I use instead of scaffolding?

If for whatever reason scaffolding isn’t available or suitable for your project, you could try:

1. MEWPS (Mobile Elevated Work Platforms)
2. Ladders
3. Trestles and planks
4. Podium steps

Which alternative to scaffolding you pick will depend largely on your project’s requirements (accessibility, height, safety concerns). You should always consult a professional scaffolder or builder to ensure your chosen structure complies with safety regulations.

Speak to a skilled scaffolding specialist today to get started.

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How much does a painter and decorator charge per hour?

You might want to hire a painter on an hourly basis if you have a small project. It’s a good idea to ask the professional you’re hiring to give you an estimate for how many hours it will take them to complete your project, so you can get a sense of how much you’ll end up spending.

In the UK, the average hourly rate for a painter and decorator is between £20 and £50. Not including the cost of materials, hourly rates are typically between £15 and £40 per hour.

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How much is a painter and decorator per day?

Hiring your painter on a daily basis offers you flexibility in terms of the number of days your painter will work, based on your schedule and needs.

Day rates for a painter and decorator in the UK range from £150 to £400 a day. Not including the cost of paint and materials, daily rates are typically between £100 and £250.

Speak to a painter today to get a more accurate quote for your project:

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How much do painters charge per room?

How much you might pay for a painter and decorator will depend largely on the size of the room you want painted:

• A small room, such as a bathroom (up to 100 square feet) could cost anywhere from £250 to £500.
• A medium-sized room, such as a bedroom (around 100-200 square feet) could cost anywhere from £450 to £950.
• A large room, such as a living room (over 200 square feet) could cost anywhere from £750 to upwards of £1,400.

This does not include the cost of preparation work that can raise the overall quote considerably. For instance, a 3m x 5m room could cost you about £1,000 to paint (including ceilings) if you include the cost of preparing existing surfaces and paint internal walls, architraves, skirting boards and door linings. A slightly smaller room (3m x 4m) with the same prep work, might cost you £940. It all depends on the specific requirements of your project.

Make sure you check your painter’s credentials and experience before you hire them, as well as reviews from previous clients.

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Cost to paint a house

These quotes include all internal painting of walls and hallways, but exclude VAT:

Size of property	Average cost
2-bedroom home	£2,750-£5,500
3-bedroom home	£3,800-£8,200
4-bedroom home	£4,900-£10,400
5-bedroom home	£6,000-£15,000

How much you’ll spend will really depend on the quality of paint you want, and what condition your walls are in. Where you live in the UK will also impact on cost of labour. For a more accurate sense of painter and decorator prices in 2023, speak to a local painter and decorator in your area today.

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How much does it cost to wallpaper a room?

How much it will cost you to wallpaper a room depends predominately on what wallpaper you choose to buy, as rolls vary considerably in price. On average, wallpaper costs anywhere from £12 per roll to upwards of £55 per roll, but luxury wallpaper can cost a lot more.

For a small room, such as a bathroom, you might need between 2 and 3 rolls, whereas a large room could require upwards of 8. For a medium-sized room, 5 rolls should be enough.

You then need to pair this cost with the cost of hiring a painter and decorator to wallpaper the room for you. This could cost you anywhere from £165 to £385 or more, depending on the size of your room and where you live in the UK.

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Exterior painting costs

You might also want to get the outside of your home painted. How much you’ll spend on external painting depends on where you live, how easy the walls being painted are to access and the condition of your outside walls.

As a general guide, here are a range of average prices for external painting according to property size:

Size of property	Average cost
2-bedroom house	£3,300-£6,600
3-bedroom house	£3,800-£8,200
4-bedroom house	£4,900-£10,400
5-bedroom house	£6,000-£15,000

For a more accurate quote, speak to a skilled painter and decorator today.

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Is it worth getting a professional painter?

Although you can definitely paint and decorate your home yourself, it’s unlikely that you’ll get the professional looking finish that a skilled painter would provide. Painting and decorating, especially large areas or even your entire home, is hard work. Hiring an expert will save you time and effort, and will ensure the work is completed to a high standard.

A painter will give you useful advice on what colours and styles to choose for your home. They’ll also come with all the right brushes, dust sheets and other tools, which you would otherwise have to buy for yourself. Lastly, they’ll know how to prep your walls and surfaces to ensure the best results, and will also clean up afterwards.

Painting your home gives it a fresh new look, but only if the work is carried out properly and to a high standard! Give yourself peace of mind by hiring a skilled painter to paint your home for you.

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How to choose the right paint colour for a room

Need help choosing paint colours? Have a think about…

1. Matching colour with mood. The paint colour you choose should pair well with your room’s function. For example, soothing colours like a soft blue or neutrals would work well with a bedroom, whereas you might want something more vibrant (like an orange or a bright green) for your living room.
2. Make sure your choice doesn’t clash with your furniture. Think about whether your room has a dominant piece of décor in a specific colour that you might want to compliment through your choice of paint. This will ensure your walls harmonises with your interior design, flooring and other décor compliment your freshly painted walls.
3. How much light does your room have? Lighting affects how colours appear. If your room has a lot of windows and natural light, this will enhance colours that will otherwise take on a different appearance under artificial light. Consider this when choosing your paints!
4. Test colours with paint samples. Before you commit to a colour, testing samples can help you choose the perfect shade. Test them on an area of your wall will allow you to see your chosen colours at different times of day and with different lighting.
5. How big is your room? Darker colours add depth and cosiness to big rooms whilst lighter shades can make a small space seem bigger.

Lastly, we recommend you look for inspiration online, focusing on the colour palettes of rooms with a similar style and size to yours.  

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How to save money on painting your house

Hoping to paint your home on a budget? Follow the below tips to cut back on costs and save money:

• Always ask for several quotes so you can compare prices and choose an option that fits your budget, but without impacting on quality. You can speak to skilled painter and decorators here.
• Only paint the most important rooms, such as bedrooms and living areas. This will cut down on costs, and you can always paint less important rooms at a later date.
• DIY or partial DIY. If you’re confident with a paintbrush, save money hiring a painter by doing it yourself! Or, you could always do a partial DIY by prepping your walls yourself and leaving the painting to the experts. This could include removing old wallpaper, sanding, or filling minor cracks.
• Buy paint during sales, or consider paint reuse schemes that allow you to buy used paint for as little as £2 a litre.
• Avoid buying more paint than you actually need by using an online paint calculator that predicts how much paint you’ll need for your project.

And always hire top quality tradespeople, as this will avoid you spending more money on costly repairs further down the line.

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Reasons to replace your conservatory roof

There are plenty of reasons why you might want to replace the roof on your conservatory, including: 

• Your conservatory is old and has deteriorated over time 
• Your conservatory is damaged, and causes leaks, has visible cracks, or has been perforated due to hailstorms and bad weather 
• Your conservatory looks visually unappealing, bringing down the kerb appeal of your property 
• Your conservatory is bad at regulating temperature, making it inhabitable during most of the year due to the greenhouse effect that makes your conservatory too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter 
• Your conservatory is really noisy when it rains 
• Your conservatory was originally installed poorly, and now leaks or causes other problems  
• You’re thinking of using the space in a different way, and need to install a different kind of roof (such as a solid roof) 

Replacing the roof of your conservatory can give the whole structure a fresh, modern appearance, offering you the possibility to add new features like spotlights or skylights, whilst saving you money on a full conservatory replacement. 

If you think it’s time to replace your conservatory’s roof, let us know about your project, and speak to a skilled roof fitter today.

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Conservatory roof materials

You may have done your research and realised that you’re interested in changing the material that the roof of your conservatory is made from. A change of this kind can completely revolutionise how you use your space, potentially increasing your conservatory’s energy control and how much sunlight enters your room.   

It’s important that you think about what you plan to use your conservatory for before you replace the roof. Tiled roofs let in less light but can enable you to use your conservatory as more of a functional space, such as for a dining room. 

On the other hand, glass roofs look nicer and offer a lot more natural light, though you will need to think about temperature control and rising energy bills. 

The three most common conservatory roof options are: 

Glass 

Glass roofs are a popular option for many homeowners. This is because they offer more natural light and are long lasting and durable. They’re also considered the most aesthetic. 

However, they are more expensive to replace than polycarbonate conservatory roofs. Non-glazed glass panelled conservatory roofs are not good at regulating temperature. 

Modern advances in glass technology mean that we now have specially coated glass that retains heat well whilst avoiding the ‘greenhouse effect’ that makes standard glass conservatories too hot in the summer and cold in the winter. This means that new glass conservatories can now be used all year round.  

Glass conservatories are built with a sturdy aluminium frame that is resistant to harsh weather. 

You could also opt for: 

• Self-cleaning glass, which reduces maintenance (glass conservatories are hard to keep clean) with a material that cleans itself using the sun (which breaks down dirt through a chemical reaction caused by ultraviolet rays) and rain (which then washes the dirt away) 
• Solar controlling glass, which protects your conservatory by reflecting the sun, protecting against ultra-violet damage, and reducing glare through a glazed tint that helps keep your space cool in the summer 

Polycarbonate  

You could choose to get a polycarbonate roof replacement. They are made of layered plastic sheeting that traps warm air through gaps in the material. 

Polycarbonate is a light and stable material that is both strong and durable. It is also a good option if you’re on a budget, as it’s affordable and cheaper than glass.  

However, it’s also less popular now, not only because it’s not very visually appealing, but also because it has poor sound insulation when it rains and can be prone to overheating. It also offers less security than glass and is generally less long-lasting. 

Solid tiled roof 

Alternatively, you could opt for a solid, tiled roof. This would remove the ‘conservatory look’ and turn your conservatory into more of an extension. 

The perks of a tiled roof include better temperature regulation for year-round, comfortable use. You can use the same tiles you have on your home’s roof to integrate your conservatory into your home, helping it to further resemble an extension. Lastly, a solid roof will turn your conservatory into a functional room and is likely to add the most value to your property. 

However, a tiled roof conservatory will let in less natural light, a big consequence of better temperature regulation. Tiled roofs sometimes require additional rafters and batons to support the weight of the roof, which can increase costs. However, this isn’t needed very often, as you can purchase lightweight models that are designed to sit on standard timber or uPVC conservatory frames. 

Solid roofs sometimes require building regulation approval, so make sure to check beforehand. 

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What is the average cost of a replacement conservatory roof?

If you leave your roof to deteriorate, it will only make your conservatory more inefficient and unpleasant to use. Though you will have to spend money to replace it, in the long run it will save you money in energy bills, lowering your carbon footprint as well. 

How much you end up spending on a replacement will depend largely on the type of conservatory roof you are having replaced, the size of the structure, and your choice of materials. 

The average cost of a 4m x 4m polycarbonate roof replacement is of between £6,200 and £13,500. 

How much you spend will be impacted by the type of roof you get. For example: 

• A 4m x 4m lean-to polycarbonate conservatory roof replacement will cost around £8,200 
• A 4m x 4m Edwardian polycarbonate conservatory roof replacement will cost around £9,700 
• A 4m x 4m Victorian polycarbonate conservatory roof replacement will cost around £9,700 

The average cost of a 4m x 4m glass roof replacement is of roughly £14,800, or anywhere from £9,700 to £22,000. 

The average cost of a 4m x 4m tiled roof replacement is of around £16,400. 

These price brackets are impacted by a range of factors, including: 

1. The type of roof you want to replace your conservatory with, including lean-to, Edwardian, Victorian, or a gable-end styles 

2. The size of your roof 

3. The number of hips, valleys, ridges, and rafters, and your choice of materials for these 

4. Your choice of roof covering, for instance, what kind of tiling  

5. Whether you want roof insulation, and how thick you want it to be  

You will also need to consider the cost of removing and disposing of your existing roof. This includes hiring skips and scaffolding. One 6-yard skip will cost around £316 to hire, though you may need more than one, depending on the size of your project. Four-metre-long scaffolding with one lift would cost you around £340.  

The average roofer will charge between £300 and £500 a day in (labour only) costs, depending on where you live and how much time the job will take. How easy your roof is to access, and how old your conservatory is, can also have an impact on costs. 

Are you looking to replace the roof of your conservatory? Let us know what you have in mind and get some free quotes today.

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Conservatory insulation prices

You may find that you want to add to or improve your conservatory roof’s insulation. 

Internal conservatory roof insulation (insulation that is fitted between your conservatory roofs internal rafters and then covered with plaster or uPVC) will on average cost you between £1,200 and £2,200. 

Roof insulation panels, which are fitted on top of your existing roof, start at around £2,600 and can reach upwards of £6,400 depending on the size of your roof and your choice of materials. 

For instance, a 4m x 4m aluminium panel roof insulation will cost around £2,850, whilst the same size uPVC would cost £3,450, and plastered roof insulation would cost around £3,950. 

Replacing your conservatory roof is the most effective way to insulate your conservatory, as most heat escapes through the roof. 

Some other ways to keep your conservatory well insulated include: 

• Install blinds, curtains, roof drapings, or retractable awnings 
• Solar control film, a thin sheet that is applied to windows and which absorbs heat, retaining heat inside your conservatory whilst reducing glare from UV rays. 
• Place a rug onto the floor of your conservatory (the thicker the better) 
• Consider getting underfloor heating 

If you’re looking to get your conservatory properly insulated, speak to a skilled roof insulator, and get some free quotes today.

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Do you need planning permission to replace your conservatory roof?

Conservatories are considered permitted development, and don’t require planning permission, subject to a few criteria, which can be found here. This means that if you are only replacing the roof on an existing conservatory, you will already have obtained the right planning permission. 

However, if you are changing a polycarbonate or glass conservatory roof into a solid, tiled one, this changes the classification of your conservatory from a temporary to a permanent structure.  

Building works that are classified as “change of use” sometimes require planning permission. You will need to check with your local authority before you hire tradespeople to replace your roof, to ensure that building works comply with the relevant regulations and permissions. 

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How to save money on a replacement conservatory roof

We recommend that you don’t attempt to cut corners when it comes to buying good quality durable materials that will last you a long time. However, there are definitely some ways you can save money on your roof replacement. 

1. Make the most of what you already have. If you aren’t planning on making radical changes to your conservatory roof, reusing the parts of your roof that are still in working order is a great way to save money on materials, and avoid creating waste. 

2. Weigh up all your options. Make sure you research what all your potential options are, and how different choices could impact the way in which you will end up using your conservatory. This will help you make the most of your money, and ensure you are pleased with the end result. 

3. Request several quotes. The best way to get your money’s worth for a new conservatory roof is by shopping around for multiple quotes before you settle on your builders and materials. Knowing the lower and upper cost brackets for your specific project is a good idea when it comes to planning for your new conservatory.  

4. Choose the most energy efficient options. Though these might cost you more up front, you are more likely to save money in the long run with lower energy bills if you opt to make your conservatory roof as energy efficient as possible.  

Always hire skilled labour. Getting your roof replaced properly the first time round will save you money down the line in repair costs and other complications. If you’re ready to speak to some skilled roof fitters, let us know what you have in mind, and get some free quotes today.

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What garden decking should you get?

If you’re thinking of getting a garden deck, you’ve probably already thought through your options, and decided you don’t want a patio (the other popular garden landscaping option).  

The next decision you’ll need to make is what decking boards you want your deck to be made of. There are plenty of options for you to choose from.  

Wood decking is by far the most popular choice, and is also considered the most aesthetic, though it can be more expensive to have installed and to maintain than some other decking materials.  

On the other hand, PVC requires little maintenance, but has a synthetic look and feel to it that a lot of people consider unattractive. 

The most popular options are:  

Type of decking	Pros	Cons
PVC decking	Weather resistant   Eco-friendly   Easy to install  Little maintenance or finish needed	Prone to UV damage   Has a synthetic look  Difficult to repair
Composite decking	Lightweight   Doesn’t stain, warp or splinter	Prone to mould and mildew   Has a synthetic look
Trex decking	Made from 95% recycled materials / eco-friendly   Doesn’t warp   Resistant to rot	You can’t refinish it after installation   Expensive to repair
Hardwood decking	Resistant to rot  Fire-resistant   Long-lasting   Low maintenance	Can be difficult to source and install  Regular maintenance
Softwood decking	Resistant to rot   Doesn’t warp	Shorter lifespan (10-15 years)  Requires most maintenance
IPE decking	Long-lasting   Low-maintenance   Durable material	Harder to install   Prone to rusting   Heavy

Decking is a good option for sloped gardens, as it can be elevated to level your ground. If you have a sloping garden, decking might be your best, and sometimes only, solution. 

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How much does garden decking cost?

Installing high quality garden decking can add up to £11,000 to the value of your property, making it a smart investment. 

If you have a busy lifestyle, you probably don’t have time to mow your lawn frequently. Decking also requires less frequent cleaning than a patio. All you need to do is sweep your deck every now and then, with an annual pressure washing and sealing of your deck covering the rest. 

No matter the shape or size of your garden, your tradespeople will be able to cut and fit your deck to size, making it a great, versatile option. A professionally installed deck can last you upwards of 15 years. 

The below prices look at installation for a range of un-elevated deck sizes and include cost of labour and materials. 

Decking material	Total cost for 15 square metres	Total cost for 30 square metres	Total cost for 60 square metres	Total cost for 90 square metres
uPVC	£2,325	£4,650	£9,300	£13,950
Composite	£2,400	£4,800	£9,600	£14,400
Trex	£3,000	£6,000	£12,000	£18,000
Hardwood	£3,300	£6,600	£13,200	£19,800
Softwood	£1,875	£3,750	£7,500	£11,250
IPE	£3,075	£6,150	£12,300	£18,450

When it comes to wooden decking, prices will also range depending on the type of softwood or hardwood you buy. Softwood options include yellow pine, larch, redwood, and cedar, whereas oak and balau are the most common hardwood choices. 

The average decking job takes one to two days to complete. 

How much you spend will depend on a lot of different factors, including your choice of design for your deck, and the complexity of the installation (will your tradespeople have to build around things like trees?). Costs will also rise if you want handrails, or if you want your deck elevated. For a more accurate quote, let us know what you have in mind, and speak to a skilled deck installer today.

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Additional decking prices

You might want your deck installed with a railing, with individual handrails costing between £18 and £30. On the other hand, decking balustrades start from around £110 for a 20-piece balustrade kit, but can go up in price to several hundred pounds, or even more, depending on the size and material you want. Individual decking spindles cost as little as £2 to £4, whilst decking post caps cost as little as £1.50 to £3.50 each. 

Decking stairs usually cost anywhere from £200 to £400. An anti-weed membrane (to protect your decking) will cost anywhere from £10 to £30 per item. 

If you want decking lights, you will need to install garden landscape wiring, which a professional can do in around four to eight hours, and for anywhere between £150 and £500. You will then have to pay for the outdoor lights, which come in a wide range of prices that start from around £40 to £120 per light, including installation.  

If you don’t want to do this, you could opt for solar and waterproof wireless deck lights that you stick to your deck with tape, and which cost anywhere from £30 per light.  

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How do you maintain decking?

There are several maintenance requirements when it comes to decking, to ensure that your deck continues to look good for many years. 

The most important thing you can do is wash your deck. This helps prevent mould and mildew forming, which in turn can cause rot. 

In order to do this, first sweep your deck to get rid of debris and leaves. You can use a knife or another tool to get rid of rubbish that has gotten stuck in between deck boards. You might want to move plants out of the way to keep them protected.  

Next, you’ll need a deck cleaner. The one you get will depend on the type of deck (material) you have. Whether the floor needs to be wet first will depend on the cleaner you purchase – just follow the instructions on the label. Deck cleaner costs around £15 to £35, depending on the type of deck you have and the brand of cleaner you get. 

Use a broom, brush, or garden sprayer to apply the product. Make sure you don’t use too much water, then scrub the deck clean. You will probably need to let the deck soak for a handful of minutes before rinsing with clean water. Wait two days before you seal your deck. 

In order to then seal your deck, you will need to purchase a sealer to create the perfect finish. You can get clear sealers for wooden decking, toners that add more colour and protect against sunlight, or even semi-transparent or solid stainers. 

Sealer should be applied once a year, over the course of two days. You should go for days with good weather and clear skies. First, lightly sand the deck to remove imperfections. Then apply the sealer with a roller. If any screws need replacing, do this before you apply the deck sealant.  

You can buy sealers online for around £40 – £50 for a five litre sealant. 

Make sure to inspect your deck every so often for signs of rot, cracks, rotten boards, or joist damage, so you know when it needs maintenance work. This will maintain the look and health of your deck for as long as possible. 

If you fail to look after your deck, it could get damaged. On average, decking repair costs between £150 and £500, depending on the extent of damage, and where you live in the UK (cost of labour ranges). 

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Do you need planning permission for a deck?

Putting up decking in your garden is permitted development, which means you don’t need to apply for planning permission to have one installed, as long as: 

• The deck is less than 30cm above ground 
• The deck doesn’t cover more than 50 per cent of the garden area (including extensions and outbuildings) 

• The decking isn’t on land that is forward of a wall forming the principal elevation.  

Other rules apply if you live in a listed building or in flats, converted houses, or areas with other restrictions. For more information, access the Planning Portal decking page. 

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How to save money on a new garden

Decking is one of the more budget-friendly landscaping options, but it still requires you to budget and plan ahead for how much you might spend. Though we don’t recommend you try and cut corners to save money, there are some tips you can follow to make smart, budget-friendly decisions during your decking installation. 

1. Wood is the most popular option for decking, but it is also the most expensive to maintain, with annual cleaning and staining. For those looking to save money, composite decking is considered the best alternative, saving you time in maintenance as well. 

2. Make the most of seasonal deals and offers, and make sure you make smart purchases and only buy what you need, to avoid overspending and creating waste. The best way to do this is by planning ahead and making sure you get all the right measurements for your garden deck ahead of time.  

3. Don’t over-complicate your deck design. It’s easy to get carried away during the planning stage, but the more complex your design is, and the more your tradespeople will have to work around things like trees, the more the overall project is going to cost. Stay away from add-ons as well – you can always purchase those further down the line, as they’re not necessary during the initial installation and you might find that you don’t want or need them later. 

4. Think twice before going with softwood decking. Softwood is cheaper than hardwood (up front) but it costs more to maintain and has a shorter lifespan. If you do want wooden decking, spending a bit more on hardwood will save you money in the long run. 

5. Always hire skilled labour. You might think you’re saving money by hiring more cost-friendly tradespeople, but this can lead to problems down the line if your decking isn’t installed properly. Hiring professionals with experience and expertise is always a good idea, even if it might cost you a little more to begin with. 

If you’re thinking of getting a garden deck, let us know what you have in mind, and get some free quotes today.

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What are the different types of air conditioning systems?

When it comes to selecting what type of A/C would be best for you, make sure you keep a few things in mind: 

• How much space you have 
• How much you expect to use the A/C and your energy consumption  
• Your budget  
• Cooling capacity 

You might also want to measure your room to find out the BTU output you’ll need to cool your room properly. You can use a BTU calculator to help you figure it out. 

If you aren’t sure what air conditioning unit would be best for you, speak to a skilled tradesperson, who can help you decide.

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Type of air conditioning system	Pros	Cons
Floor-mounted A/C	Easy to install  Don’t take up a lot of space so great for smaller properties	Air flow can sometimes be decreased by the presence of furniture in the room  Not suited for large rooms due to localised and uneven airflow
Window-mounted A/C	Easy to install Easy to maintain  Doesn’t take up floor space Cost effective and cheap to operate  Very good cooling capacity Come in a range of sizes	Emit a noise whilst in use  Visible from the outside of your property Need to be installed near a suitable electrical outlet  Obstruct free from window  Irregular shaped windows are not compatible
Ducted / central A/C	Cools an entire area quickly and in a regulated way  Decreases the effects of humidity Fairly quiet indoor operation Can be controlled from the home thermostat	Consumes a lot of energy so higher energy bills  Require an outdoor unit which some people consider unattractive and difficult to hide High initial installation and purchase cost
Split system A/C	Don’t require ductwork and can be installed everywhere Can monitor individual unit temperature Usually come packaged with purifiers and humidifiers  Noiseless  Cost-effective to run	One unit is insufficient for cooling large spaces  Usually wall-mounted and highly visible More suited for larger homes and not for smaller properties  The outdoor unit is noisy

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How much does it cost to have air conditioning installed?

These prices include cost of materials and the installation price. You could opt to have your air con wall mounted, or have it mounted into your window or on the floor. The choice is yours. 

Most A/C installations take one or two days, though larger systems can take as long as three to seven days. 

Type of air conditioning system	Average cost
Floor-mounted air conditioning for one room	£600 – £1,500
Window-mounted air conditioning for one room	£600 – £1,400
Ducted air conditioning system for one room	£2,500 – £4,000
Ducted A/C for a six-room house	£10,000 – £15,000
Split air conditioning for one room	£1,200 – £2,400
Split A/C for a six-room house	£6,500 – £10,500

How much you spend will depend on a range of factors: 

1. How big the area you want cooled is 

2. The system you choose to buy, including its model and quality 

3. Extra features like app access, sleep mode, and remote controls 

In some cases, no installation services are required. You can buy a portable or freestanding air conditioner (the cheapest start at £50 but can reach upwards of £600), or an evaporative air cooler, that costs between £100 and £500. Neither require services for installation, you can just buy and set one up in your home yourself. 

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How much does it cost to run an air conditioning unit in the UK?

How much it costs to run A/C is a FAQ. Different A/C units have different efficiency ratings, depending on their age and size. This means that running costs will vary widely, depending also on where in your home your air con is installed. 

The below prices give you an approximate look at how much you might spend to run A/C in your house. 

What room in your home?	Running time	Cost per hour to run A/C	Cost per day to run A/C	Weekly cost to run A/C
Bedroom	8 hours	10p	80p	£5.60
Kitchen	8 hours	16p	64p	£4.48
Living room	8 hours	12p	96p	£6.72
Home office	8 hours	6p	48p	£3.36

Standard air conditioning units cost between 8p and 20p per hour, which adds up to an average of around £25 – £30 a month (for one unit). 

Portable A/C units are not energy efficient. To run a freestanding air conditioning unit, you could pay upwards of 45p an hour. 

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Do you need building regulations for air conditioning?

You do not need planning permission or building regulation approval to install air conditioning in your home. 

However, extensive air conditioning systems (bigger than 0.6m3) are sometimes not covered by permitted development, especially if you’re having one installed on a pitched roof or within a metre of the edge of a flat roof.  

You will also need planning permission if you live in a conservation area. 

If you aren’t sure whether you can install air conditioning in your home, a skilled tradesperson can help you identify what you will need for the project. You can ask for some free quotes here.

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How often should air conditioning be serviced?

The standard advice is to have your A/C checked annually, as it won’t always show noticeable signs of defect. To make sure it’s performing as best as it can, regular checks will ensure your A/Cs performance stays on track, increasing your unit’s lifespan as well. 

If your air conditioning: 

• Makes more noise than usual 
• Leaks excessively  
• Takes longer to cool your room down than usual  
• Leads to higher energy costs than usual 

These are all signs that there might be something wrong with your unit. Contact an expert to come and service your air conditioning as soon as possible.

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The average cost of an air conditioning service is between £50 and £200 per unit, with air conditioning engineers charging between £20 and £50 an hour, depending on where you live in the UK. 

You may also be charged for the cost of the refrigerant you need. This tends to cost between £30 and £120.  

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How can I save money on air conditioning?

There are definitely a few tips you should be aware of if you want to make the most of your air conditioning unit and save money in the long run.  
These include: 

1. Always opt for high-efficiency products. They might cost you more up-front to buy, but they will almost certainly save you money in the long run in running costs than a low-budget system. 

2. Make sure your home is properly draught proof and insulated. This will ensure that the cool air stays in and the warm air stays out whilst you use your A/C, allowing you to maximise its effects in your home just like it does during the winter months when you switch on your heaters.  

3. Use a timer to set your A/C. this will avoid you forgetting that you have it switched on, as this could cause you to leave the house with it on or have it running when you aren’t in the room. The same advice goes for smart devices like thermostats and other temperature controls that automatically switch off the A/C once it gets to a certain temperature. 

4. Invest in window covers. Whether this is curtains or window film, this is an excellent way to block sunlight coming into your rooms, which in turn warms them up and minimises the effects of A/C. Solar screens are another great option. 

5. Always pick skilled tradespeople to install your air conditioning. This will avoid you paying for costly repairs further down the line, and will ensure that the whole process goes smoothly, and that your A/C works as effectively as possible. You can hire a tradesperson to install your air con here.

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How much does it cost to fence a garden?

If you’re in the process of landscaping your garden, updating your fencing is a great way to increase the visual appeal of your outdoor space. The great thing about having new fencing installed is that you have a huge range of options to choose from, both in terms of the fence design you go with, and the material you want to build it in. 

The two standard sizes for fencing are 4ft and 6ft high. The type of fence you get will affect how much you end up spending. 

The average cost to fence a 4ft high, 36ft long fence is around £1,080. For a 200ft fence, the average price goes up to around £6,000. 

The average cost to fence a 6ft high, 36ft long fence is around £1,350. For a 200ft fence, the average price goes up to around £6,200. 

It would cost around the same amount to get either wood or concrete fence posts. A gravel board would add around £25 per 6ft to overall costs. Prices can vary depending on the fence design you get (you could opt for hit and miss panels, close-board panels, Venetian panels, or lap panels).

To get an accurate quote, we recommend speaking to a professional fence installer in your local area.

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How do you get rid of old fence panels?

There are a few things you can do with your old fencing in order to dispose of it properly.  

One of the most popular options is to take your old panels to a recycling centre, especially if your panels are made of wood. Load them up in your car, and make sure you take out any extra parts like screws, so that the panels can be recycled correctly. 

If, for any reason, you can’t do this, the other option is to hire a skip. This is a particularly good idea if you have a lot of fencing to dispose of, as a skip handler can dispose of large quantities of materials for you. Some landscape gardening companies can also dispose of your old fence for you. Garden waste is charged at around £250 per truck load.

If your fencing is still new and in good condition, you could try to sell it online, or otherwise donate it. 

Lastly, you could try and contact your local council, as they sometimes offer collection services for a fee.

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How high can a garden fence be without planning permission?

You will not need planning permission if you want to take down a fence or replace a fence (as long as it doesn’t increase in height). 

You will not need planning permission to add a new fence, as long as it’s below one metre high and near a road used by vehicles, or under two metres elsewhere. You also won’t need permission if your gate doesn’t form a boundary with a neighbouring listed building or its grounds. 

This does not include conservation areas, where different rules apply. For more information, visit the Planning Portal website. 

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Who owns the fence between houses?

If your fencing is old or damaged, you might be interested in replacing it. But it’s not always clear who the fence dividing your property belongs to.  

Check your title, plan, or conveyance deed first. If you can’t find this, then look for a T-mark on your fence. If it’s on your side of the fence, then it belongs to you. An H mark can indicate that the fence belongs to both you and your neighbour. For more on this, check out our guide on fence ownership. 

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How do you maintain a fence?

An old or tired looking garden fence can make your whole outdoor space look run down and unappealing. Wooden fences should be looked after at least once every couple of years, depending on how much water and sunshine your fence is exposed to. 

Importantly, to keep your garden fence looking clean, you need to have the right equipment. This includes either a power washer or hose, brushes and rollers, wood stain, and bleach or another form of wood treatment. If you do use bleach, make sure you dilute it with water (one part bleach for every two parts water), and then let the solution rest on your fence for a while before you use your power washer. 

You might also want to buy protective sheets to lay down around your fence in order to protect your plants or grass. Both the solutions you use, and the heavy jet of water, could damage them. 

Make sure you let your wooden fence fully dry before you apply the new seal on it. 

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How to cut costs on new garden fencing

There are plenty of things you can do to make sure you don’t spend more than you want to on your new garden fence. These include: 

1. Buy good quality materials. This might seem counterintuitive, because buying good quality materials will of course cost you more money. But cheap fencing has a limited warranty, and often starts looking run down after only a handful of years. Spending as much as you can afford on good materials will help you save money in the long run, as you won’t need to repair or replace your fence for a long while. 

2. Don’t complicate your fence line. The longer and straighter your fence is, the cheaper it will be (per linear foot). Avoid corners, changes in direction and elevations, as these will raise prices. 

3. Plan your budget. The best way to make sure you don’t spend more than you want to is to plan ahead of time, and set a budget in advance. That way you can ask for quotes from local tradespeople with a sense of how much you’d be comfortable spending. When it comes to fencing, planning is also important in helping you prevent mistakes from happening, such as not conforming to the right planning regulations, or putting your fence on land that doesn’t belong to you. 

4. Source materials yourself. This will give you control over how much you spend on your materials and will give you the opportunity to look for discounts and deals. Discounts often run during the ‘slower’ months, from December to February, so keep an eye out for seasonal sales. 

5. Ask for multiple quotes. Getting as many estimated costs as possible will ensure that you are aware of the lower and upper cost bracket for your project, and are able to negotiate accordingly, saving you money when you eventually make an informed decision on who to hire. And always hire skilled professionals, they will install your fence faster, and will save you money in the long run when your fence remains upright and sturdy. 

You can find a tradesperson to install your fence here:

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How much does a new patio cost?

These prices include cost of labour and patio materials. How much you’ll end up spending will depend largely on which material you choose to buy, and the size of your patio. The below are a few popular patio materials, to give you a sense of how much you might spend:

Patio material	Average cost for 10m2	Average cost for 20m2	Average cost for 40m2
Slate	£1,550	£3,100	£6,200
Brick	£1,550	£3,100	£6,200
Concrete	£1,250	£2,500	£5,000
Blocks	£1,200	£1,400	£4,800
Sandstone	£1,480	£2,960	£5,920
Porcelain	£1,550	£3,100	£6,200
Natural	£1,500	£3,000	£6,000
Granite	£1,600	£3,200	£6,400
Marble	£1,800	£3,600	£7,200
Limestone	£1,500	£3,000	£6,000
Coloured concrete	£1,500	£3,000	£6,000

It should take between two and five days to lay a patio, depending on its size. 

The above prices include labour and material costs, but exclude VAT. Labour cost ranges depending on where you live in the UK. For a more accurate quote on how much you could spend on your patio installation, let us know what you have in mind and talk to some patio pavers today.

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How much does it cost to clean and seal a patio?

When it comes to looking after your patio, cleaning and sealing it is the most common form of maintenance, protecting your patio from dirt build-up and the effects of weather exposure. 

The cleaning involves jet or pressure washing your patio with professional machinery, whilst sealing involves laying paver sealant over the clean patio to create a barrier between the material and the elements.  

Periodically performing this task will ensure your patio continues to look brand new, years after you have it installed. On average, you could pay roughly £350 to clean and seal a 10 metre patio, £500 to clean and seal a 20 metre patio, and around £800 to clean and seal a 40 metre patio.

Patio waste removal costs  

You might also need to hire a skip to get rid of excess materials and soil, as well as other rubbish created during the installation of your patio. On average, hiring a skip costs anywhere between £120 and £400, depending on where you live in the UK, and what size skip you want to hire. 

Garden waste is charged at roughly £250 per truck load.

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Do you need planning permission for a patio?

There are no restrictions when it comes to laying a hard surface on the ground (or near ground level) of your garden. If you think your project might require significant terracing or embanking to support your patio, then you may need planning permission.  

Different rules apply for paving your front garden and driveway. 

For more information, access the Planning Portal website. 

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How to save on laying a patio

There are definitely a few tips you can follow to save money on your new patio. Not all of these will necessarily apply to you but being conscious of these money-saving tricks before you start your project is a good idea. 

1. If you want to connect your patio to electricity or plumbing, then situating it close to your house will reduce costs 

2. Pick an area of your garden that isn’t sloped. Otherwise, you will need to pay to level your soil or add retaining walls to your patio 

3. If you have large trees in your garden, patio laying around these can save you money on tree removals and can also enable you to create a patio area with natural shading, rather than spending money on an awning or pergola. 

4. Always hire skilled tradespeople. You may think you’re saving money by hiring cheap, inexperienced labour, but this is only more likely to lead to further costs down the line for repairs, or even an entire patio replacement. 

5. Think about whether hard landscaping is the best option for you. Patios are one of the more expensive garden projects you can get done. If you’re on a budget, look at our garden landscaping cost guide for some other, cheaper options. 

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How much does garden decking cost?

Garden decking is always a popular choice with homeowners, especially wooden decking, which is considered visually appealing and feels good to walk on. 

Not to mention that garden decking is easy and quick to install, and is low maintenance, not requiring the mowing or more frequent cleaning like lawns and patios do. 

Decking is a durable option that creates an ideal outdoor living space for you to make the most of your garden.  

How much you end up spending will depend on your choice of slabs, and the size decking you want. 

Decking material	Total cost for 15 square metres	Total cost for 30 square metres	Total cost for 60 square metres	Total cost for 90 square metres
uPVC	£2,400	£4,800	£8,000	£14,400
Composite	£2,600	£5,200	£9,000	£14,000
Trex	£2,600	£5,200	£9,000	£14,000
Hardwood	£3,300	£6,600	£12,000	£17,000
Softwood	£1,650	£3,300	£6,400	£9,500

The size of the area you want decked will have the highest impact on costs, but so will things like handrails, and whether you want your deck elevated or not. For more information about garden decking costs and considerations, read our garden decking cost guide. Consult with your tradespeople on what additional features could cost you. You can hire a professional landscaper here.

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How much does a new patio cost?

The great thing about patios is that you have a huge range of options, both in terms of the paving you choose, and the design choices you make when laying the paving. 

Paving improves the aesthetics of your garden in a way that’s long lasting and fairly low maintenance. A paved patio can even prevent flooding and improve your home’s drainage! 

Materials can cost you a range of prices. Below are some average costs for four common patio materials, using three different sized patios. 

Patio material	Average cost for 10m2	Average cost for 20m2	Average cost for 40m2
Slate	£1,400	£2,800	£5,600
Brick	£1,400	£2,800	£5,600
Concrete	£1,400	£2,800	£5,600
Sandstone	£1,500	£3,000	£6,000
Porcelain	£2,000	£4,000	£8,000

Other things that can impact these prices include whether you’ll need soak ways and drainage built in. In some cases, you might also need to hire a skip to dispose of waste and excess soil. For a full list of patio material prices, check out our garden patio cost guide.

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How much does it cost to lay turf?

Laying turf in your garden is the quickest way to get an instant, aesthetic result. Rather than planting seeds and waiting a few weeks for grass to grow, laying turf allows you to have a fully functioning lawn within a couple of days of laying. 

Laying turf is more affordable than buying and laying artificial grass, but it does require more maintenance, including watering and mowing the lawn frequently. 

Small (50 square metres)	Medium (75 square metres)	Large (125 square metres)
£900	£1,350	£2,250

If you do prefer the natural feel and smell of real grass, then laying turf on your lawn is a great option that will make your garden truly feel like an outdoor space. 

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How much does it cost to lay artificial grass?

Or you could decide to get artificial grass, which comes with a wide range of benefits: 

1. Always looks neat, green, and tidy, all year round 

2. Very low maintenance and convenient 

3. Doesn’t require mowing or watering 

4. Very pet friendly (can’t be dug up, stays hygienic and easy to clean), and child friendly (doesn’t require pesticides and attracts less bugs) 

5. Aesthetic appearance and a range of options in terms of colour, density, texture, and length 

6. Great drainage when it rains, and dries faster than natural grass 

However, artificial grass is more expensive to buy, and takes longer to install. It has a shorter lifespan than real grass (around 7-15 years), and you also don’t get that fresh grass smell. 

Which you decide to go with will depend on what your priorities are. If you don’t have a lot of spare time, then artificial grass might be the better option. 

Small (40 square metres)	Medium (70 square metres)	Large (150 square metres)
£4,400	£7,000	£15,000

It can take between 1 and 4 days to lay artificial grass in your garden, depending on its size. 

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How much does it cost to fence a garden?

One of the main reasons to get a fence is that it can help you keep pests out of your garden. This is especially good if you grow your own plants and vegetables, as a fence can protect them from getting eaten by unwanted intruders.  

Fences also offer your plants a protective barrier from the wind and sun, and have aesthetic benefits, as you can choose from a wide range of designs, colours, and materials. 

The average cost to fence a 4ft high, 36ft long fence is around £1,000. For a 200ft fence, the average price goes up to around £5,600. 

The average cost to fence a 6ft high, 36ft long fence is around £1,350. For a 200ft fence, the average price goes up to around £7,200. 

It would cost around the same amount to get either wood or concrete fence posts. A gravel board would add around £25 per 6ft to overall costs. Prices can vary depending on the fence design you get (you could opt for hit and miss panels, close-board panels, Venetian panels, or lap panels).

What is the cheapest fence to build? 

If you’re thinking of getting a fence for your garden but want to buy the most budget-friendly option, then you should look into PVC, aluminium, vinyl, or chain-link fencing, as these materials are the most cost-friendly. 

Read our garden fence cost guide for more information to help you decide.

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How much does it cost to build a garden pond?

Garden ponds look beautiful, create a focal point in your garden design, and encourage wildlife, such as frogs and birds. You can decorate your water feature with flowers and plants to create a relaxing environment to enjoy whenever you sit in your garden.

Garden ponds are great at moderating the temperature of your outdoor space, whilst also making your garden appear lighter, due to the reflective quality of water. 

How much you spend on your pond will depend largely on its size. You can expect to pay around £250 per cubic metre for a basic pond, but prices will rise for a more elaborate model.

On average, a garden pond takes between 3 and 10 days to build, depending on how large you want it to be. 

These prices include the cost of installation, and the decorative finish around the pond, usually made from bricks. They exclude VAT.

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Other garden landscaping jobs

You may also be thinking about getting a garden shed to store tools and equipment, or a vegetable bed to start growing your own produce.  

Small additions like these can elevate the look and feel of your garden. How much you’ll spend depends on size and your choice of materials. 

Type of garden landscaping project	Material	Average cost
Shed 6ft x 4ft	Wood	£350
Shed 8ft x 4ft	Wood	£680
Shed 12ft x 8ft	Wood	£1,200
Raised vegetable bed – 6 x 2 + 600 mm high	/	£65 per metre
Raised vegetable bed – 600 mm high + built from sleepers	/	£150 per metre
Clearing garden waste	/	£250 per truck load

You may also be interested in buying garden furniture like deck chairs or a garden swing. How much you spend on these will depend entirely on your budget. 

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How much does it cost to hire a garden designer?

You could spend anywhere between £600 and £4,500 to hire a landscape designer to design your outdoor space. Where you live in the UK will affect costs. 

You don’t need a garden designer, but hiring one comes with plenty of benefits: 

1. A stronger design concept – your garden designer will show you a range of sketches, images, samples, and a range of their ideas to help you figure out what exactly you’re looking for. Mood boards and concept plans will help you visualise your new garden before it’s even built 

2. Managing the project – if you have a busy schedule and don’t have time to oversee your garden renovation yourself, your garden landscaping designer can oversee the whole project, making sure that everything is done correctly, and built according to your vision and preferences 

3. Attention to detail – your garden designer is an experienced professional who will spot and account for elements of your project that you might overlook, such as climate, privacy from neighbours, and eyesores, as well as issues with accessibility

4. Managing your budget – your garden designer will also make sure that you stay on track and don’t lose sight of how much you’re spending 

5. Contacts – landscaping designers have a lot of contacts in the industry, and can help you secure good quality, reliable supplies and materials at affordable rates 

Are you thinking of hiring a garden designer? You can do so here.

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Do you need planning permission for garden landscaping projects?

You won’t need planning permission for most landscaping work, such as building a shed in your garden, which is covered under permitted development rights and doesn’t require planning applications, (if it follows certain requirements). For the full set of rules on sheds and other outbuildings, visit here. Garden ponds are under the same regulations as outbuildings. 

You do not require permission to plant trees and hedges, though you may do to remove them, so keep this in mind. For more information on trees and hedges, see here. 

Planning permission will most likely be required if you want to pave your front garden or turn it into a driveway. For more on paving regulations, visit here. 

When it comes to decking, if the decking is less than 30cm above the ground and covers less than 50% of the total area of your garden, then you will not require planning permission. For more information on this, see here. 

If you aren’t sure what you can and can’t do, your tradespeople will be able to advise you. You can hire them here.

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How to save money on landscaping costs

The below ten tips are a few things you can look out for before you start your landscaping project, to make sure you make the most of your resources and cut down on costs: 

1. Always do your research. In terms of your garden plants, there is plenty of free advice on the internet and in books about where to place specific plants, to help you avoid hurting your plants by planting them in the wrong place. When it comes to hiring labour, ask for several quotes before you hire anyone, as having a good sense of how much the project could cost you is a good idea. Always comparison-shop with your plants as well, and avoid impulse buying to stay on track with your budget. You can hire a gardener here. 

2. Design your garden yourself. If you’re on a budget, then you might not want to hire a professional garden designer. As long as you do your research, get inspiration from online content and gardening magazines, and consider the implications of your different choices, you shouldn’t have any problems going the DIY way. Always check if your project conforms to planning permission regulations. We don’t recommend hiring cheap labour, as this can raise costs in the long run when mistakes and complications result in more money spent on repairs. 

3. Buy plants during sales. If you do a bit of research, you will find that retailers and gardeners often have discounts and sales at certain times of the year, such as at the end of growing season. Buying plants during these periods will save you money, and you can often find plant pots and other garden items for up to 50% off. We recommend you look for perennial plants rather than annual ones, to cut costs on replacing plants every year. 

4. Think about your water bill. Watering your garden frequently will cost you money on your water bills. Opting for artificial grass is more cost-effective in the long term, as is buying drought-resistant flowers, which will reduce the amount of water you consume. Installing an automatic irrigation system can also help you reduce your water usage. 

5. Don’t get carried away. When you first sit down to brainstorm what you want your garden to look like, you may well get carried away adding tons of features that you probably don’t need, and that will raise costs. Scaling back, and focusing on the things you really want, will make sure you stick to a reasonable budget for your landscaping project. 

6. Go for cheaper, but sturdy, materials. When it comes to hard landscaping materials (such as for pathways and patios), expensive materials can make costs skyrocket. But cheap materials are also far less enduring. Opting for more budget-friendly, but resilient materials, such as gravel, are a good way to get the best of both worlds. 

7. Avoid garden centres. You don’t have to go to a garden centre to buy your plants. Plants are often more expensive in such locations because the plants are considered of a higher standard. If you have time to look around, (and time to give your plants the proper care), buying them from supermarkets or even from online marketplaces like Ebay could be a cheaper solution. Also try out salvage yards for second-hand materials like timber boards and fencing. These will be cheaper than buying brand-new items. 

8. Bulk buy your materials. See if your neighbours are interested in shopping together. Buying garden products and tools in bulk can help bring costs down, saving you all a lot of money. 

9. Don’t throw away what you already have. It’s easy to make the mistake of throwing everything away and starting your new garden from scratch, but you might find that using what you already have (especially your more long-lasting materials and healthy plants), could help cut down costs. 

10. Low-cost accents can have a big impact. If you’re deciding where you should invest your money, we recommend you choose high-quality materials for your permanent and most used garden elements. On the other hand, smaller, decorative elements of your garden don’t need to cost a fortune, as low-investment decorations can elevate the look of your garden, without breaking the bank. 

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How do I know when my windows need replacing?

There are a few things that can flag that it’s time to replace your windows. These include: 

1. You can feel a draft  

2. Your window frames are chipped, feel soft, or look water damaged 

3. Condensation builds up 

4. Cracked windows  

5. You find it hard to open and close your windows or your windows are stuck shut 

6. Your home isn’t very soundproof  

7. Your carpets or furniture looks faded 

8. High energy bills  

9. Outdated style that could bring down the value of your property 

10. You still have single pane windows  

If any of these look familiar, it might be time to replace your windows. You can hire a skilled tradesperson to complete the job here.

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What is the average cost to replace windows?

The three most popular window replacement materials are aluminium, uPVC, and timber. Below are some prices for what replacement could cost you, depending on what type of windows you want. 

These prices include cost of materials and installation. 

Type of window	Aluminium + double glazing	Timber + double glazing	uPVC + double glazing
Casement window	£600 – £1,600	£700 – £1,880	£450 – £1,280
Sash window	£900 – £2,400	£1,000 – £2,800	£700 – £1,880
Bay window	£1,600 – £4,000	£1,800 – £3,600	£1,200 – £3,100
Tilt and turn window	£650 – £1,800	£800 – £2,100	£550 – £1,450

How much you spend will also be impacted by the size of your windows, with larger windows usually costing more to have installed. Windows on a second or third floor will cost more to replace than first floor windows. 

These prices include the disposal of your old window materials as well. 

Supply costs only for window materials can range from: 

• £250 – £500 for uPVC 
• £400 – £1,400 for wood 
• £400 – £900 for aluminium  

On average, a tradesperson will charge around £160 to £250 a day to install your windows. How much you end up spending on labour will be impacted by your location in the UK, and the number of windows you want replaced. 

You might get different rates for multiple window installations. 

You can ask for some free quotes on window replacements here:

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Is triple glazing more expensive?

Triple glazing is more expensive than double glazing, though it is a more effective insulator, meaning that triple glazed windows are more likely to reduce your energy bills in the long run. 

On average, you could pay between £2,200 and £3,800 to have 4 triple glazed casement windows installed. 

A skilled window fitter can help you decide whether triple glazing is a good option for you. You can hire a tradesperson here.

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How much does it cost to buy and install a skylight?

A new skylight or roof window could add a lot more natural light to your home, improving ventilation and helping you cut down on your energy bills. 

How much you spend installing a new skylight or velux window depends on the type of window you want, and the size you want it in. 

If you’re replacing your skylight because it’s damaged, a new one will cost you between £1,100 and £1,500. If the damage is less severe, a repair could cost you between £300 and £600, such as if your roof window leaks. 

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What is the average cost to repair windows?

Perhaps your window frames are in good condition, but the glass needs replacing, because the glass has smashed due to an accident or a burglary.  

The average cost to have a window repaired is between £100 and £250, depending on what type of window you have and its size. Where you live in the UK will also impact on costs. On the lower end, it could cost as little as £60 with a higher cost bracket of £300 to supply and install new window glass. 

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Can you replace windows without planning permission?

You don’t usually need planning permission to replace windows, as long as: 

• The windows you are installing are of a similar appearance to those used to construct the house  

• Windows on an upper-floor side elevation have to be obscure-glazed and non-opening or no more than 1.7 metres above the floor level 
• You don’t live in a listed building or in a conservation area  

If you are only making minor changes, or are installing internal secondary glazing, you won’t typically need permission. 

If the window you are having installed is a roof skylight, different rules apply.  

For more information, access the Planning Portal website. 

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How to save money on replacement windows

The best thing you can do if you want to avoid spending more money than you bargained for on your replacement windows is to do some research, plan ahead, and set a budget. This will help you find the best options for you, filter through less good offers and quotes, and stay on track to spend as much as you are comfortable spending.  

On top of this, some other tips include: 

1. Get the job done at the right time. Window fitters are most in demand during the spring and are likely to raise prices during this period of the year due to high levels of work. Hiring labour during less busy periods of the year is likely to save you money. You are also more likely to find sales on materials during the slower seasons such as the winter and summer. 

2. Question whether you need triple glazing. Triple glazing is more expensive and depending on your home’s age and how well your property is insulated, triple glazing isn’t always necessary, as double glazing is more than enough to properly insulate your home and save you money on your energy bills. 

3. Have multiple windows installed at the same time. Window companies often offer better deals when you bulk buy materials, and you’ll get a better package deal from your tradespeople for multiple windows, than if you replaced them one at a time over the course of several years. 

4. Always ask for multiple quotes before you settle on your tradespeople. This will help you get a sense of how much your window renovation could cost you, and the upper and lower ranges for your project, so that you can make an informed decision about who you want to hire. And always hire skilled labour. This will avoid you having to pay more money down the line for repairs. 

5. Consider fixed windows over operable ones. These are cheaper to install, and if you already have good ventilation in other parts of your home, a few fixed windows could lower costs. 

If you’re thinking of getting your windows renovated, let us know what you have in mind, and get some free quotes today.

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What affects the cost of plastering?

A range of things can impact on the final cost of the whole plastering job: 

1. What plaster you choose to use 

2. The condition of your walls, and whether they need repairing first (and the condition of your existing plastering) 

3. Where you live in the UK 

4. How easy the wall or ceiling is to access (high ceilings could require scaffolding, and could lead to further costs)

5. The size of the area 

As a result, the below prices are an average range, and don’t necessarily represent what your specific project will cost you. You can get a more accurate quote here.

You might also want to hire a painter and decorator to improve the appearance of your walls after they’ve been plastered. 

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How much does plastering cost?

Plastering is a process whereby three different layers of plaster are applied to your walls, all of which need to individually dry before the next layer can be added on top. This type of plastering is called wet plastering.  

The alternative is dry plastering, which is faster and uses plasterboards which are nailed to your wall and then covered with a layer of wet plaster. This type of plastering enables you to add insulation to your walls. 

The main types of plaster are: 

1. Lime plaster, made from lime and water 

2. Gypsum plaster, made with water and calcium sulphate 

3. Cement plaster, made using cement, sand, and water 

4. Venetian plaster, made from marble dust and lime putty 

There are lots of different types of plastering, and some materials need more layers of plaster than others or use different methods. This is why it’s best to hire a skilled professional, unless you’re a confident DIYer. You can hire one here.

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These prices include cost of labour and materials. 

	Patch repair	Plastering small room	Plastering medium-sized room	Plastering large room
Lower range	£75	£525	£840	£1,250
Average	£110	£575	£980	£1,450
Upper range	£140+	£750+	£1,200+	£1,600+

The average cost of plastering a room is between £550 and £1,350, depending on the size of your room. 

How much you end up spending depends a lot on where you live in the UK, as labour prices rise for plasterers in London and the South East. 

It will take between 2 and 4 days to plaster a room, depending on its size. 

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How much does it cost to plaster a ceiling?

	Small ceiling	Medium-sized ceiling	Large ceiling
Lower range	£220	£330	£440
Average	£300	£400	£600
Upper range	£380+	£475+	£775+

It will take around 1 to 3 days to plaster your ceiling, depending on its size. 

If you have an artex ceiling, you can opt to remove the artex before plastering, scrape the artex and then skim over it, or even create a false ceiling using dry lining plasterboard. A skilled tradesperson can help you identify the best method to get rid of your artex ceiling. 

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How much does it cost to skim coat plaster?

Skimming, on the other hand, is a plastering technique where a single thin coat of plaster is added to smoothen the surface of your wall and prepare it for painting. You can add this to an existing plastered wall or use it to cover plasterboard. 

These prices include cost of labour and materials. 

	Skim a wall	Skim a small room	Skim a medium-sized room	Skim a large room	Skim plaster a wall (per m2)	Skim a ceiling
Lower range	£100	£400	£450	£550	£22	£200
Average	£150	£475	£525	£625	£24	£350
Upper range	£200+	£550+	£600+	£700+	£26+	£550+

The average cost of a new skim coat plaster for a room ranges from £475 to £625, depending on the size of your room. On average, a single wall will cost you £150 to skim. How easy your walls are to access, and their condition of wear, will affect costs. 

It will take between 1 and 3 days to skim your walls, depending on the size of the project. 

The condition of your walls can also impact on price, as significant damage might need repairing before the plastering is applied. 

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How much does rendering cost?

Plastering is a technique used on internal walls. If you are looking to get work done on your external walls, this method is called rendering. 

Rendering is generally more expensive because it’s a longer process and often requires other equipment, such as scaffolding. We recommend you don’t attempt to render your exterior walls yourself. You can hire a professional here.

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The below prices look at how much rendering could cost you and include cost of labour and materials. 

	External rendering (small)	External rendering (medium)	External rendering (large)
Lower range	£1,995	£4,100	£4,800
Average	£2,400	£4,450	£5,500
Upper range	£2,750+	£4,900+	£6,600+

Rendering is a popular exterior finish that can help increase the kerb appeal of your home, adding value to your property. 

There are tons of rendering techniques, from smart stucco to monocouche. The type you get should match your property, both visually and practically. If you live in the west side of Britain, for example, you will want a rendering type that is highly resistant to harsh weather. 

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Plastering material costs

Plaster ranges in price, from £6 to around £22 per m^2. This is what plastering materials (supply cost only) look like: 

• Gypsum plaster costs around £9.95 per 25kg bag 
• Clay plasters cost around £18 per 25kg bag  
• Insulated plasterboards cost between £6 – £18 per m² 
• Acoustic plasterboards cost between £6 – £18 per m²
• Venetian plaster costs between £5.50 and £22 per m² 
• Moisture resistant plasterboards cost between £6 – £12 per m²  
• Fire resistant plasterboards cost between £6 – £22 per m²
• Plastering undercoat costs between £0.70 and £1.20 per kg 
• Bonding agents cost around £15 – £25 
• Finishing plaster costs around £0.40 and £0.90 per kg  

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What is the labour cost for plastering?

Your plasterer will either charge a daily rate, or an hourly rate, to plaster your home. 

The average plasterer will charge around £250 a day to plaster your home. Hourly rates range from £15 to £50, with an average of £25 an hour. Where you live in the UK, and whether you want plastering, skimming, or rendering, will impact on costs. 

You can hire a skilled tradesperson to come and plaster the walls of your home below. We recommend you ask for multiple quotes before you settle on a plasterer. 

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How to save money on your plastering

Following the below tips can help you make the most of your money and save on the cost of plastering or rendering your home: 

1. If you’re renovating your home, and are looking for the cheapest option, then plastering over plasterboard, rather than over brickwork, is cheaper. This is because it will only need a skim coat.  

2. Plasterboards can also enable you to add a layer of insulation, which reduces your heating bills and your home’s carbon footprint, saving you money in the long run. 

3. In general, skimming costs less than plastering. Skimming is a good option if your walls are still in good condition.

4. Though you can opt to do your own plastering (especially skimming), to save money, we don’t recommend you do this unless you’re a confident DIYer. Plastering is messy and requires skill in order to avoid damp from developing. Bad plastering can also result in poor insulation, and even damage to your home. A poor plastering job will only lead to further costs down the line. Paying a little more up front will save you from spending money in the future.

5. You can still save on easier jobs. After your plasterer has finished renovating your walls, you could paint over them yourself, rather than spend money on a painter, since this is an easier DIY job. 

6. Getting a package quote for multiple jobs, such as both plastering and rendering, in one go, is usually cheaper.

To make sure you have a good sense of how much plastering could cost you (upper and lower ranges), we recommend you ask for multiple quotes. And always hire skilled tradespeople.  

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Does my tree need removing?

There are a few things you can look out for if you’re worried that your tree is becoming a potential hazard: 

1. Wide cracks visible on the trunk or branches of your tree 

2. Large branches are falling frequently from your tree 

3. Your tree no longer produces needles, leaves, or new growth 

4. You can see dangling or broken branches  

5. Your tree’s branches are close to power lines or windows  

6. There is damage to the foundations of your home due to roots  

7. Mushrooms are growing on your tree’s roots 

8. Your tree is leaning and could potentially fall and hit a car or property 

9. There is visible damage due to recent storm  

10. Hollows or cankers (dead spots) are visible on your tree’s trunk 

You might also want to remove a tree in your garden to clear up space.  

If any or many of these signs are present on your tree, then it might be time to book a tree survey. This means that a professional takes a look at your tree and assesses whether it poses a risk to you and your loved ones. You can hire a tree consultant here.

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How much does it cost to remove a tree?

When calculating the cost of your tree removal, your tree surgeon will consider the height, width, and lean of your tree. 

Type of service	How long will it take?	Average cost	Lower and upper prices ranges
Tree survey + report	One or two weeks	£250	£150 – £350
Small tree removal	A couple of hours of work	£140	£120 – £160
Medium-sized tree removal	Half a day	£285	£185 – £400
Large tree removal	Half a day to a full day of work	£1,100	£650 – £1,600

Very large trees can cost upwards of £3,000 to have removed.

You can hire a skilled tree surgeon to cut down your tree here. 

Sometimes, your tree surgeon will need additional equipment to be able to remove your tree safely. This is usually for trees that are near power lines or close to roads. In these cases, you might need to hire a mobile crane or another form of aerial platform. This will raise costs. 

Some tree surgeons have a minimum call-out rate, so do keep this in mind as well. You could combine work for multiple trees and shrubs to make the most of the service.  

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How much do tree surgeons charge?

If you need work done to one of your trees, but aren’t looking to cut it down, there are a range of other services that tree surgeons can provide: 

Type of service	What is it?	How long will it take?	Average cost	Lower and upper prices ranges
Tree debris disposal	The removal and disposal of tree debris around your tree and your garden.	A few hours	£60	£35 – £90
Stump removal / stump grinding	Removal of the tree stump after it has been cut down. This requires expert knowledge of how your tree spreads its roots.	Half a day	£250	£120 – £450
Tree pruning	Removal of dead or diseased branches to stimulate healthy tree growth.	Half a day to a full day of work	£320	£140 – £550
Tree pollarding	Removal of upper branches of a tree, to encourage dense foliage growth and keep the tree at a particular height.	Half a day to a full day of work	£320	£140 – £550
Tree lopping	Removal of side branches to modify and maintain the size of a tree.	Half a day to a full day of work	£320	£150 – £550
Tree coppicing	Removing the shoots that grow from particular tree stumps or roots.	A team (2-3 people) will take roughly a day.	£350	£150 – £600
Ivy removal	The removal of an Ivy plant.	Two to three hours	£180	£100 – £275
Hedge removal	The removal of a hedge.	Half a day to two days of work	£345	£160 – £550
Japanese knotweed removal	The removal of Japanese knotweed, a plant that kills off other plants, and should be removed immediately.	Requires three to four sessions	£1,250	£1,100 – £1,800

With some of these services, you may also need to hire an excavator to remove the root system of the tree or plant you’re getting rid of. This service may be part of your package, but make sure you ask, so that you can have a clear sense of how much you’ll need to budget. For a more accurate quote, let us know what you have in mind.

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If you think you might need a crown thinning specialist, you can hire one here. Alternatively, tree surgeons also offer crown reduction services. If you aren’t sure what your tree needs, but it’s growing out of hand and getting in the way of your property, then we recommend you hire a tree consultancy specialist first. 

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Do I need permission to cut down a tree on my property?

You don’t need to gain permission to cut down a tree (that’s in your own garden), unless you live in a Conservation Area or the tree itself is subject to a Tree Preservation Order (TPO). Trees over 5 cubic metres in volume also require permission to cut down.  

If your tree does have a Tree Preservation Order, in some cases you will still be able to cut it down, but you will need to apply to get permission. In this case, you will have to replace the tree with another one. If your tree doesn’t have a TPO, we still recommend you plant new trees to compensate for the lost one. 

In general, we recommend that you leave felling your tree as an absolute last resort, only to be carried out if the tree poses a safety risk to your home and loved ones. And in most cases, homeowners would rather not cut a tree down, unless it’s necessary. Pruning and pollarding can sometimes be good alternative options. A skilled tree surgeon can carry out work safely and will also make sure that as much of the tree is saved, if that’s an option. 

Tree preservation laws can be complex. If you’re ever in doubt over whether you’re allowed to fell a tree on your property, you should seek advice from your local council. 

For more information on up-to-date government laws, check out the official government guidance, or the Woodland Trust information guide. 

Cutting down a tree without the correct permission can result in prosecution, and a fine of up to £20,000.

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Ways to repurpose your felled tree

You can usually ask your tree surgeon to leave parts of your felled tree, if you think you might want to repurpose it. 

One of the most common ways that felled trees are used is for firewood. Your tree surgeon can cut your tree into firewood sized lengths, which you can cut down further if need be with an axe or a wood splitter. You’ll have to find a place to store your firewood as it seasons (this can take between 6 and 12 months), but once it does, you’ll have free firewood which you can use as fuel to keep your home warm during the winter months.  

Some types of trees, like oak trees, are better than others for firewood, so make sure you do your research beforehand. 

If you don’t have a fireplace, you could also consider using larger pieces of wood to start DIY projects. You could make a table or some chairs, or even just use some of the larger logs as stools. Smaller projects could include cutting boards, candle holders, or even coasters.  

Otherwise, you could turn the wood into mulch, which is great for your landscape plants and trees, or wood chips, that creates a soft surface for your yard. 

There are plenty of things you can use a felled tree for, saving you money on furniture and fuel, and allowing you a degree of creative licence too. Keep in mind that you won’t be able to reuse all trees – if your tree has a pest infestation or disease, the best thing to do is remove it from your property altogether. Your tree surgeon will let you know if this is the case. 

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Do trees cause subsidence?

Subsidence is the cracking of the external (and internal) walls of your property, caused by foundation or ground movement. Trees can cause subsidence when roots take up all the moisture in clay soil, causing it to dry and shrink. 

If you think this is happening to your home, you should report it straight away to your building insurer, who will then investigate. They can then produce evidence which can be used to apply for the tree to be removed. If the tree in question is protected by Preservation Order, then further investigations will have to be carried out to determine the best course of action. 

If you’re not sure, the best thing you can do is hire a tree consultant to come and survey your tree and property. You can hire one here. 

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How can I save money on tree removal?

There are definitely steps you can take to lower the cost of your next tree removal. Not all of these will necessarily apply but being aware of even just a few of these tips could help lower your overall tree surgery bill. 

1. A large part of why lots of tree removals go up in price has to do with access. The harder your tree is to access and remove, the more it will cost you. Do what you can to reduce manual labour for your tree surgeon. If you don’t have a large backyard, consider asking neighbouring homeowners if they’d be happy to let your tree surgeon access the property by their garden, removing the fence between your property to complete the job. 

2. Similarly, how much space there is around the base of the tree can have an impact on costs. Assuring your tree surgeon that you will remove all garden items that could get in the way of the surgeon’s job will help you reach a more affordable quote. 

3. Tree services tend to be seasonal, with more work being requested during the warmer months. This means that in the summer, tree surgeons tend to charge more to cut down your tree. Consider this when hiring your labour. 

4. Keep, dispose, or sell off the leftover wood yourself. This can help you avoid disposal costs, allow you to repurpose wood into fuel or furniture, and can even allow you to make some money back if you choose to sell the wood to someone else. 

5. Hire a skilled tradesperson. Tree felling is a tricky task that requires a lot of experience to make sure everything is completed properly, and no damage is incurred to your property or neighbouring ones. Make sure your tree surgeon has insurance and the right qualifications. You can hire a skilled tree surgeon here.

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What does a chimney removal involve?

A chimney breast is the part of your chimney that you can see from inside your home, and which projects outwards from the wall, creating the necessary space for a fireplace. The chimney breast starts at the hearth but continues upwards through the rooms and loft above it until it reaches the base of your chimney stack. 

Homeowners tend to remove the brickwork chimney breast and leave the stack when they want to free up space in the home, but without costs rising too much. In this scenario, the stack is left supported (avoiding disruptive work such as roof alterations), whilst the breast is removed and then plastered over.  

On the other hand, the chimney stack is the small structure that projects from your roof, and which directs smoke out of your home, via what is known as a chimney flue. Homeowners tend to remove stacks because they’ve been damaged, causing a risk that the stack might fall and injure someone.  

You can have one or multiple chimney breasts removed (just the one on the ground floor, or a bedroom chimney breast as well). Or you could opt to remove the chimney breast but leave the stack. You could also remove just the stack and nothing else. 

You will need to hire a structural engineer to come and assess your project before you begin. If you remove a ground floor chimney breast, the stack above it will need to be sufficiently supported. Additional structural support won’t be needed if you remove both stack and chimney.  

If your chimney breast is part of a load-bearing wall, you will need to ensure that removing it doesn’t compromise the structural integrity of your property. A structural engineer will be able to advise you during your consultation and will tell you whether your chimney breast is supported or not.  

Old chimneys can cause damp to penetrate your home. Removing your chimney can create a more regular space, generating more opportunities to style your room and organise your furniture. 

You will need to consider how removing your chimney breast will impact noise insulation, ventilation, the potential effects on a neighbour’s chimney, and possible fire safety breaches, particularly in relation to party walls. A skilled tradesperson will be able to help you ensure your removal is carried out safely. 

Usually, as well as structural support, your chimney remover will also ensure the space is appropriately insulated and that it undergoes damp-proofing. 

Removing a chimney breast is a messy job that will create a lot of debris and dust. You should clear your room of all furniture and seal it off from the rest of the property before works begin. You may also want to hire a post construction cleaning specialist to professionally clean your room after your chimney breast is removed. 

You can hire a chimney breast remover here.

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How much does it cost to remove a chimney breast?

How much your chimney breast removal will cost depends on a range of factors, including: 

• Whether the chimney is spread over multiple floors (such as a living room and the above first floor bedroom), or whether it is on one floor only 
• How many parts of your chimney you are looking to have removed, such as whether you want the stack removed as well 
• The type of chimney you have, and the materials it is made from (some are harder to dispose of than others) 
• Whether your chimney is part of a load bearing wall 
• How easy your chimney is to access, and its size 
• How old your chimney is, and whether your chimney is damaged or rotting 
• Potential planning permission fees 
• Additional costs such as the right finish and any painting needed (if these aren’t included in your quote) and cleaning services after the chimney has been removed, as well as skip hire (one six-yard skip costs around £250 to hire) 
• Where you live in the UK, with cost of labour rising in London and the South East by as much as 20% on average.

As a result, it’s not really possible to accurately predict how much your chimney removal will cost. However, on average, a chimney breast removal could cost you: 

Type of chimney removal	Average cost	How long will it take?
Chimney breast removal (ground floor)	£3,000	2 – 3 days
Chimney breast removal (first floor)	£3,200	3 – 4 days
Entire chimney breast removal (but not the stack)	£4,400	4 – 5 days
Entire chimney breast removal (+ stack removal)	£4,800+	Roughly a week

For a more accurate quote, let us know about your project, and get some free quotes today.

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Do you need planning permission to remove a chimney breast?

You won’t need planning permission to make any internal alterations to your chimney breast (as long as you don’t live in a listed building). Moreover, external works like stack removal are classed as permitted development and automatically have planning permission. 

However, there are building regulations connected with removing a chimney breast. Building works need to comply with Part A of Building Regulations. This means that you’ll need to notify your local authority, who will send a building control officer to survey and then issue a certificate to prove that all legal requirements have been met. This will cost around £200. Alternatively, you can opt to hire an approved inspector, which is usually faster. 

If the removal of your chimney affects party structures, you will also have to serve a party wall notice. You may need to hire a party wall surveyor if your chimney is built against a party wall. This will cost around £800.  

A structural engineer can advise you on how best to support your chimney stack after the chimney breast is removed. They cost roughly £200 an hour to hire. 

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Does removing a chimney breast devalue a house?

It is difficult to give a concrete answer about whether or not removing your chimney breast will devalue your home. 

In general, more modern properties benefit from the removal, in that it offers more space and doesn’t really detract from the “character” of the home like it does for period properties. 

With older properties, there is the possibility that removing your chimney could lead to your property losing some value. However, if your chimney is old or damaged, it could be unattractive to potential buyers. 

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Is insulating your attic energy efficient?

An uninsulated home can lose a quarter of its heat, just from the roof. With a 40-year lifetime, correctly installed loft insulation will pay you back several times over by reducing your energy bills every year. 

This is how much you could save on a yearly basis, by properly insulating your loft: 

	Detached home	Semi-detached home	Mid-terrace home	Bungalow
Turning an uninsulated loft into a 270mm insulated loft	£580	£255	£230	£365
Turning a 120 mm insulated loft into a 270 mm insulated loft	£40	£25	£20	£35

Properly insulating your loft will also save thousands of kg in CO2 emissions, helping you reduce your carbon footprint. 

Want to reduce your energy bill even more? Check out our cavity wall insulation cost guide.

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Which loft insulation is best? 

The type of insulation you get will depend on how easy it is to access your loft, and whether you want to install your insulation yourself or hire a professional. Different insulations use different materials, so it’s also worth considering how eco-friendly you want to be. 

Insulation material	What is it?	Pros	Cons	Can you DIY ?
Loose-fill insulation	Loose material like cellulose fibre or wool which are placed evenly around the loft. Often used to top up existing insulation.	Good for filling irregular loft spaces and gaps between joists   Good for areas that are harder to access   Light, easy to handle	May require a professional to install it   Not suitable for draughty lofts (can be dislodged)	Yes, for a confident DIYer
Blanket insulation	Made from mineral fibre, glass, rocks, or felt, this is one of the most common types of loft insulation.	Easy to install (can be DIY)  Cheapest type of loft insulation  There are some more eco-friendly options like recycled glass	Some materials used in blanket insulation are skin irritants   Reduce the space in loft (head height)  Bulky and doesn’t fit in all areas of loft  If not installed properly, it’s liable to tearing	Yes
Sheet loft insulation	Insulated boards that are built to insulate the sloping sides of your loft. These fit across loft joists.	Good for lofts which have limited head space  Very effective (high value per unit thickness)	Not eco-friendly   More expensive than most other options  Can’t be used on structural elements	Yes, for a confident DIYer
Spray foam insulation	A layer of foam is sprayed from a special machine over the areas that need insulating.	Eco-friendly   Can improve structural strength of home   Good for hard to access areas of loft   Highest R-values (the higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness) Sound-proof	More expensive than most other options   Require specialist installation   Made from polyurethane which contains toxic compounds  Messy to install / leaks through unsealed joints	No

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How long does it take to install loft insulation? 

Most loft insulation installations take under a day and can be completed within a couple of hours. Blanket installations take less time than sheet installations, but you can expect labour costs to be about the same, especially if you’re paying a daily labour rate. 

It will take longer than this to install insulation if you’re doing it yourself. 

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How much does it cost to insulate a loft? 

Looking at average installation costs for an entire loft, you could pay around: 

	40m2	60m2	80m2	100m2
UK average	£920	£1,400	£1,860	£2,320

The bigger your loft, the more it will cost to insulate, especially if you end up having to pay for additional services, such as rewiring electrics. The type of insulation you get will also affect costs. The above examples include the cost of blanket loft roll insulation.

To find out the prices for different insulation types, let us know what you have in mind by speaking to a skilled tradesperson today.

FIND A LOFT INSULATION SPECIALIST
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Can I insulate my loft myself?

If you do want to install insulation yourself, then the above costs will give you a sense of how much materials will set you back. Though some types of insulation can be installed DIY, professionally installed insulation lasts longer, and is generally more effective.  

Since insulation is installed primarily to be as cost-saving as possible, we recommend you hire a professional, unless you are confident you can insulate your loft properly yourself. 

If you do want to do it yourself, you should keep a few things in mind: 

1. Make sure the wiring in your loft is kept above the insulation. If your wires are getting stretched because of your new insulation, then you should hire an electrician to reroute them. 

2. You should clean your loft and clear it of any stuff that is being stored there before you begin insulating, regardless of whether you want to DIY or hire a loft insulation installer. 

3. Don’t forget about your pipes and tanks. These will need to be insulated as well to prevent them from freezing. 

4. If you want to use your loft as a storage space, then you’ll need to lay boards over your joists. If you want to convert your loft into a room, you’ll need to hire professionals to do this. 

5. Don’t use less than the recommended amount of insulation. The government recommends insulation of 270mm thickness. Using a thinner size will cost you money in the long run, because your less efficient insulation will raise your energy bills. 

6. Make sure you don’t cover any vents whilst you lay down your insulation. Your loft needs to be properly ventilated to avoid damp from developing. If there aren’t enough vents in your loft, you may need to have additional ones installed. If you do have a lot of damp problems, then we recommend you don’t opt to DIY, as you’ll need a professional to help fix this before your insulation is installed. 

7. To calculate how much insulation you’re going to need, you need to know the floor area of your loft (length x width), and the depth of insulation you already have.  Knowing the joist heights in your loft is also a good idea, so that you can know whether to lay the first layer of insulation between joists. Don’t worry about your old insulation, you can lay new insulation over it (just make sure you’re not squashing it down).  

Using 100 mm thick insulation rolls with a 8.3 m2 coverage, you can calculate how many rolls you’ll need by doing: Area (in sq m) x (1 – 0.1) ÷ 8.3 sq m. This is the equation you need for laying a base layer (25mm or less of existing insulation). If you want to add a top layer over an existing layer of insulation (for instance 100mm), the equation would be: Area (in sq m) ÷ 6.47 sq m (using 170mm rolls with a 6.47 m2 coverage). 

DIY loft insulation installation will save you from having to hire an installer but might mean your loft will be less energy-efficient than it could be. 

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Loft insulation labour costs

If, on the other hand, you want to hire someone to insulate your loft for you, so that you can ensure everything is done correctly and you maximise the heat retention in your home, then you can do so here.

FIND A LOFT INSULATION SPECIALIST

The average loft insulation costs around £450 and £1,200 (labour costs only) for the entire project. How much you end up spending depends on the scope of your project, and where you live in the UK.  

Labour costs rise in London and the South East, sometimes by as much as 20% more on average. 

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Additional costs

• It costs about £5 – £8 per metre to insulate pipework (materials and installation) 
• It costs about £150 to insulate a water cistern held in your loft 
• You may also need to relocate electrical wires during the insulation. An electrician will charge around £250 a day to do this 
• A loft ladder and hatch will cost around £350 (materials and installation) for an existing opening. You’ll have to factor in another £250 if you’re looking to build a new opening to your loft 
• If you need new loft legs (stilts), it will cost around £600 for an average loft, using chipboard. This will take roughly a day to do

FIND A LOFT INSULATION SPECIALIST
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What type of underfloor heating is best?

The most important decision you will have to make if you want underfloor heating is which type of heating you should get. 

The most common places to have underfloor heating installed are bathrooms and kitchens, though living rooms are also a popular choice. The great thing about underfloor heating is that you can heat different areas of your house independently, so you can keep running it in your bathroom and have it turned off in your living room, or the other way around. 

What type of heating is best for your home will depend on how large the area you’re looking to heat is, and whether you’re installing it in a new build or as a renovation project (whether there is an existing floor or not). 

You have two options when it comes to underfloor heating (UDH). These are electric (dry) underfloor heating, and wet (water) underfloor heating: 

	What is it?	What is it suited for?	Pros	Cons
Electric underfloor heating	A type of underfloor heating that uses electric heating mats or wires that are connected to the mains electricity supply.	Best suited for renovation projects or single/smaller rooms.	– Costs less to install than wet UDH – Faster at warming up than wet UDH – Easier and faster to install than wet UDH – Won’t usually require floor raising	– Higher running costs than wet UDH – Cools down faster once you switch it off
Wet underfloor heating	A type of underfloor heating that pumps water through pipes that is heated by your chosen heating source.	Best suited for larger spaces and new builds.	– Costs less to run than electric UDH – Pipes retain heat longer than electric UDH after you switch it off – Plenty of sustainable heating systems are compatible with wet UDH	– Costs more to install than electric UDH – More complicated to install, and may require additional work such as raising your floors to fit pipes – Slower to warm up than electric UDH

A lesser-known benefit of UDH is that it minimises the movement of dust around your home, because radiators circulate air, which moves dust. For this reason, underfloor heating is particularly beneficial for people with allergies and asthma. 

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How much does electric underfloor heating cost?

Electric systems heat up quicker, making them ideal for small rooms like bathrooms where you want a speedy warm-up time. 

The most compatible materials to choose for the flooring that will go above your UDH include stone (and in particular marble), ceramic and porcelain tiles, wood, laminate and vinyl (but only for wet systems), and carpet. 

These prices include the cost of materials and the cost of labour. 

40 m2 retrofitted electric UDH	£1,400
60 m2 retrofitted electric UDH	£1,900
80 m2 retrofitted electric UDH	£2,500
40 m2 new build electric UDH	£1,200
60 m2 new build electric UDH	£1,500
80 m2 new build electric UDH	£2,000

The above prices do not include labour and material costs to fit new flooring over your underfloor heating system. How much you spend on flooring will depend on your choice of materials.

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How much does wet underfloor heating cost?

Wet underfloor heating is usually the preferred choice for larger areas, or if you’re looking to get it installed in your entire home. For smaller areas, electric UDH is better. It’s also easier to install. Both are equally easy to use, thanks to the connected thermostat that will help you regulate temperature. 

These prices include the cost of materials and the cost of labour. 

10-40 m2 retrofitted wet UDH	£3,500
60 m2 retrofitted wet UDH	£4,350
80 m2 retrofitted wet UDH	£5,250
10-40 m2 new build wet UDH	£2,200
60 m2 new build wet UDH	£2,400
80 m2 new build wet UDH	£2,800

Water based systems are usually recommended for new builds, where UDH will be the primary heating source for the whole house. Though more expensive to install, they are more cost effective to run, making them cheaper in the long term. 

The price for wet underfloor heating between 10 and 40 m² is roughly the same. The above prices do not include labour or material costs for fitting new floors above your underfloor heating. How much you spend on this will vary depending on your choice of materials.

FIND A WET UDH SPECIALIST

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Labour costs for installing underfloor heating

The average underfloor heating installation costs (excluding the cost of materials) is around £700 – £2,600 for the whole project. How much you will spend will depend on the size of the floor you are getting fitted.  

How much you spend on labour also depends on how long the installation takes, and whether you hire one skilled tradesperson or more. Hiring several workers may not raise prices too much though, as the job will be completed faster. Where you live in the UK will also impact costs. 

To get a sense of how much you might spend on labour for your new underfloor heating, let us know what you have in mind, and get some free quotes today.

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Is underfloor heating expensive to run?

Electric underfloor heating running costs are higher than for wet systems, so it’s not usually recommended for people looking to install underfloor heating in large areas of their home, or all of it. 

Several things can impact how much it costs to run underfloor heating. These include: 

1. How well insulated your underfloor heating is will impact how energy efficient it is, affecting the overall running costs by reducing lost heat 

2. Room size – the greater the area, the more energy you’ll need to heat the room  

3. Other room insulation – beyond your floor insulation, draughty rooms that aren’t properly insulated also lead to higher running costs 

4. How often you use it  

5. (For electric systems) – the cost of electricity per kilowatt hour 

6. Your choice of floor covering – certain materials are better heat conductors, helping your room heat up and cool down faster. Tile, vinyl, and stone are great options, whilst carpeted floors and wooden flooring are less energy efficient, as they act as insulators (increasing running costs) 

Insulating your home properly is the best way to lower your energy bills and make the most of your underfloor heating. 

The cost of running underfloor heating, for a year, is around: 

Room size	Electric underfloor heating	Wet underfloor heating
10 m2	£384	£80
20 m2	£768	£161
30 m2	£1,152	£239

It currently costs around £161 a year to run wet UDH, and around £768 a year to run electric UDH in a 20 m2 room. To heat one 10m2 room for four hours a day will cost you around £10.80 a month using electric UDH. That’s around 10p per square metre, when run for six hours.  

Wet systems are, on average, 25% more efficient than radiators, as they can perform at 50°C, rather than the 70°C – 90°C that radiators require. 

To make sure you’re in control of your energy spending, we recommend you get a thermostat to monitor your energy usage. These are sometimes included in your package when you buy underfloor heating. 

If you want to save as much as you can on energy bills, you could even think about pairing your underfloor heating with a renewable heat source, such as a heat pump. 

Do you want to start saving money on your energy bills? Ask for some free quotes today to get your underfloor heating.  

Or check out our article on underfloor heating running costs. 

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How much does it cost to put down new flooring?

The below list gives you a sense of how much different flooring types can cost you (supply only): 

• Vinyl flooring costs between £5 – £15 per m² 
• Tile flooring costs between £20 – £40 per m² 
• Laminate flooring costs between £7 – £35 per m² 
• Carpet flooring costs between £5 – £30 per m²  
• Linoleum flooring costs between £18 – £25 per m²  
• Hardwood flooring costs between £35 – £60 per m² 

If you add installation costs as well, new vinyl flooring could cost you between £90 – £180 for a 10 m² room, whilst a 25 m² room with new hardwood flooring could cost as much as £2,250. It all depends on the size of your room and the materials you choose. 

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Do you need building regulations for underfloor heating?

Though there aren’t specific building regulations for underfloor heating, there are some things you will need to consider.  

Most importantly, your flooring needs to conform to Part L of the building regulations, which has to do with conserving fuel and power by making sure buildings are efficient enough. 

This means that your new floor needs to be properly insulated during the underfloor heating installation. Regulations demand that your floor needs to have a U-value of less than 0.25w/m2k, and that when your underfloor heating is installed, the value shouldn’t be greater than 0.15w/m2k. 

To make sure your underfloor heating is sufficiently insulated, tell us about your project, and get into contact with some skilled installers who can get the job done properly.

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What insulation is best for cavity walls?

There are several methods of inserting insulation into cavity walls. If you aren’t sure which would be best for you, let us know what you’re thinking and the size and age of your home, and get some free quotes today. We recommend you ask for a few quotes before you settle on a tradesperson.

FIND A LOCAL CAVITY WALL INSULATION SPECIALIST

Type of cavity wall insulation	What is it?	Pros	Cons
Expanding polystyrene granules or beads (EPS)	Beads or granules of polystyrene that are inserted into the cavity.	Eco-friendly and recyclable    Damp resistant    Easy to install  Durable and lightweight  Water resistant (prevents damp)	Not good at insulating sound  You need to clean the cavity before installation  Can cause gaps in your cavity
Polyurethane foam (PIR)	A type of spray foam that expands as it sets.	Incredibly efficient at insulating    Easy to install   Won’t cause mould	Not environmentally friendly and can’t be recycled    More expensive than other options   Material shrinks over time
Cavity wall boards	Insulation boards that are fitted whilst the house is being built.	Come in a range of sizes and different types of materials    An affordable option   Fire resistant and usually water resistant	Hard to retrofit, so more suited for new builds   Less good at insulating than other options
Wool fibre	Insulation made from sheep wool. Usually comes in rolls, like a blanket, or as loose fibre.	Easy to install   Eco-friendly, renewable, and sustainable   Fire resistant   Soundproof    Good at protecting from moisture / damp + mould development	More expensive than other options    Less thermal efficient than other options   Needs to be treated with chemicals to protect it from insects
Mineral fibre	Mineral fibres are molten rock that has been bound together and turned into sheets or loose fibres.	Resistant to rot    Can be blown into the cavity, which makes it easy to install   Cheap to install   Environmentally friendly	Cavity must be clean and spacious   Prone to clumping, which can cause damp   Repair is expensive

Most modern cavity wall insulations should last you up to 25 years. 

As well as cavity wall insulation, you should also consider getting loft insulation installed, as it is also a great way to cut your energy bills. Check out our loft insulation cost guide to find out more on how you can make your home even more energy efficient.

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How much does cavity wall insulation cost?

How much you pay for your new cavity wall insulation will depend on the type of property you have, and its size. The bigger your home, the more expensive the total cost will be. Prices will also rise if you have a very old property, as additional remedial work may be needed. Damp also complicates things, as it will need to be dealt with before the insulation is installed.

To get a more accurate sense of how much your project will cost you, tell us what you’re looking for, and get some free quotes today.

FIND A LOCAL CAVITY WALL INSULATION SPECIALIST

Type of home	Average cost 50m2	Average cost 100m2	Average cost 160m2
Semi-detached or detached home	£1,150 – £2,500	£1,600 – £3,200	£,2,300 – £6,100
Flat	£650 – £1,800	£1,200 – £1,900	£2,000 – £5,000
Terraced home	£700 – £2,000	£1,300 – £2,000	£2,200 £4,800
Bungalow	£1,100 – £2,400	£1,500 – £3,300	£2,200 – £5,800

How much you end up spending will also be determined by the type of cavity wall insulation you get. For example, mineral fibre insulation for 50m² would cost roughly £717, whilst 100mm PIR cavity boards for the same area would cost about £1,911. Similarly, you could pay £2,296 for mineral fibre on 160m² or £6,116 for PIR boards. These prices will fluctuate depending on where you live in the UK. How difficult your cavity walls are to access can also affect costs. 

It takes between 1 and 4 hours to fully insulate cavity walls, depending on the type of property you have, and how big it is.

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Can you do cavity wall insulation yourself?

We do not recommend you attempt to insulate your cavity walls yourself, as you will need a registered professional to complete the job. 

This is because the installation involves a difficult, technical procedure using hazardous products that need to be handled with care. Incorrectly installed insulation can cause damp or can lead to a less energy-efficient cavity wall too. 

Instead, hire a skilled tradesperson to do the job for you.

FIND A LOCAL CAVITY WALL INSULATION SPECIALIST
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Can you get free cavity wall insulation? 

Under the Energy Company Obligation (ECO), a government energy scheme in Britain that seeks to tackle fuel poverty and reduce carbon emissions, a selection of British homeowners are eligible for a grant to help pay for the installation of insulation. 

You are eligible for this scheme if you claim one of these benefits (and also meet the income requirements): 

• Child Benefit 
• Pension Guarantee Credit 
• Income-related Employment and Support Allowance (ESA) 
• Income-based Jobseeker’s Allowance (JSA) 
• Income Support 
• Tax Credits (Child Tax Credits and Working Tax Credits) 
• Universal Credit 
• Housing benefit 
• Pension credit saving credit 

You must own your own house or have your landlord’s permission to benefit from ECO. You can access more advice on energy saving schemes here. 

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How much energy does cavity wall insulation save? 

The good thing about cavity insulation is that within just a few years it will pay you back for the upfront installation costs, by saving you money on your energy bills. 

This is because insulation can help trap up to a third of your home’s heat which would otherwise escape through your walls. 

The below prices refer to the average UK homeowner’s annual energy bill savings, as a result of having installed cavity wall insulation. 

	Detached home	Semi-detached home	Flat	Mid-terraced home	Bungalow
Yearly energy bill savings	£480	£285	£145	£180	£195

As well as this, depending on the type of property you have, you could save between 335 – 1100 kg of CO2 a year by inserting cavity wall insulation, helping to significantly reduce your carbon footprint. 

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How much does it cost to have cavity wall insulation removed? 

There are a few reasons why you might want to get rid of the current insulation in your cavity walls. This process is completed either by sucking out the insulation using a vacuum or breaking up the insulation into smaller pieces using a specialist machine. 

You might want to have your cavity wall insulation removed if: 

1. Older insulation methods are potentially toxic and could have carcinogenic health implications. 

2. Occasionally, DIY or unprofessional installers install insulation that is not suitable for the property (for instance in timber framed properties). Equally, poorly installed insulation with gaps in it can lead to dampness. If your insulation develops damp, it will need to be removed. Always make sure you hire professional installers. You can do so here.

FIND A LOCAL CAVITY WALL INSULATION SPECIALIST

3. If your home suffers from a flood or fire, this could cause damage to your insulation, which will need replacing. 

How much you spend on removing your cavity wall insulation will depend on the scope of the project. You can expect to pay roughly between £20 – £22 per m² for cavity wall insulation removal. For a whole house, that could look anywhere between £1,600 – £2,600. 

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What are the building regulations for cavity walls? 

All cavity wall insulation requires a building notice submitted to a building control body. 

Building regulations are required to ensure that your chosen insulation material is suitable for your property. 

Most local authorities will not levy a building control charge. For more information, access the Planning Portal website. 

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What is the U value of cavity wall insulation? 

The U value, also known as thermal transmittance, measures the rate of heat loss of a fabric. 

The equation for the U value looks like this: 

R represents thermal resistance (of your cavity wall insulation). The U value is measured in Watts-Per-Metre-Square-Kelvin (W/m2K). 

Building regulations will check your U value to make sure your insulation complies with the required amount. The lower your value, the better. Building regulations require your cavity walls to be no less than 0.18 (W/m2K). 

A skilled tradesperson will make sure your insulation conforms to all building regulations. You can hire an insulator here.

FIND A LOCAL CAVITY WALL INSULATION SPECIALIST
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What are the different types of EV chargers?

EV chargers come in two types, Type-1 and Type-2, otherwise known as ‘slow,’ and ‘fast’ chargers. (You can also find ‘rapid’ 50kW chargers, though these are not sold for domestic use). Rapid chargers can take as little as 30 minutes to charge and are usually found at gas stations. 

Type-1 chargers can be plugged into standard 120-volt outlets, whilst Type-2 chargers need 240-volt outlets.  

3-7KW power rating	7-22kW power rating	Up to 50kW power rating
Type-1 or Type-2 connector	Type-1 (max 7kW) or Type-2 connector	CHAdeMO, Type-2 or CCS connector

All electric vehicles are compatible with Type-1 and Type-2 connectors, though not all EVs are capable of accepting 22kW power ratings or rapid charges (it depends on the make of your car). Type-2 is now the most common socket for home-chargers. 

There are several types of charge points and connectors: 

You can also purchase universal chargers, which are compatible with all plug-in electric vehicles. 

Because slow chargers usually come in 3kW- 7kW models, they’re only slightly faster at charging than a standard wall plug that has a charging speed of 2.3kW. Slow chargers can take up to 8 hours to recharge an EV battery to 80%. Most lamppost charge points on residential streets have a 3kW power output. 

Type-2, ‘fast’ charging stations can deliver anywhere from 7kW to 22kW. The most popular AC model has a charging speed of 7kW. A 7kW-22kW fast charger will recharge an EV battery to 80% in two to four hours.  

7kW chargers are the most popular and commonly found option. In order to charge your EV above 7kW, your property needs a three-phase electric supply. Most UK residential properties operate on a single-phase supply, so make sure you check your home can support a 22kW charger before you buy one. For more information on EV charging statistics in the UK, visit the Zap Map website. 

We don’t recommend you frequently charge your car with a three-pin plug, as it’s both slow (a whole day to fully charge your car) and can put a lot of stress on your domestic power network. 

Many new electric cars now come with a Type-1 or Type-2 charger cable included. You can get untethered charging points (that come without a cable), or tethered charging points, that have an attached, fixed cable. 

Pros of tethered chargers	Cons of tethered chargers	Pros of untethered chargers	Cons of untethered chargers
Cable is included with the main charging unit    Attached to the unit so less likely to be lost or stolen   No risk of forgetting the cable  Offers convenient charging	Can’t change the cable if you need a longer one or a different model or connector type  If the cable gets damaged, it’s more expensive to replace  Tethered chargers are slightly more expensive	Easier to replace cables and upgrade them  The unit itself looks tidier without the attached cable   Slightly cheaper than tethered chargers	You have to plug and unplug the unit each time, making it less convenient   Sometimes have to pay for a charging cable separately to the main unit  Less secure than tethered cables that can’t be stolen or lost

You can calculate how many hours a charger will take to top up your car by dividing the energy of the battery in kWh by the speed of the charger in kW. 

If you aren’t sure what charging station you need, get into contact with a skilled electrician who will be able to help you out.

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How much does it cost to fit a car charging point?

How much you end up spending on your charging point will depend largely on whether you want a slow or fast EV charging station, and where you live in the UK, as cost of labour rises in London and the South East.  

The average cost of installing a home charging point is of around £1,000. 

• 3kW chargers cost around £850 
• 7kW chargers cost around £950 
• 22KW chargers cost around £1,550 

You could get… 

Provider	Model	Cost	What you get…
E.ON	Vestel EV04	£999	Type-2 socket  7.4kW  3-year warranty  Wi-Fi/LAN cable RFID card  Smart app control  Open access mode
INDRA	INDRA Smart PRO	£1,099	7kW  Solar matching, load limiting, load curtailment, charging schedule, and ready-by time features  3-year warranty  Type-1 tethered, or Type-2 tethered cable, as well as universal socket
podPOINT	Solo 3	£899 (tethered) £849 (universal – portable 5m cable sold separately for £179)	3.6kW  Tethered or universal  Smart app and power balance  Charge activity monitoring and scheduling WI-FI updates  3-year warranty
podPOINT	Solo 3	£899 (tethered) £949 (universal – portable 5m cable sold separately for £179)	7kW  Tethered or universal  Smart app and power balance  Charge activity monitoring and scheduling  WI-FI updates  3-year warranty
podPOINT	Solo 3	£1,599 (tethered) £1,549 (universal – portable 5m cable sold separately for £179)	22kW  Tethered or universal  Smart app and power balance  Charge activity monitoring and scheduling  WI-FI updates  3-year warranty
Ohme	Ohme Home	£936	Type-2 or Type-1 connector  Tethered  7kW  5m cable  3G/4G Smart app charging  3-year warranty
Ohme	Ohme Home Pro	£990	Type-2 connector  Tethered  7kW  5m or 8m cable  3G/4G connection  Home power balancing In built earthing  Smart app control/LCD screen
Wallbox	Kit Pulsar Plus	£1,337	7.4kW  Type-2  Built-in earthing   3-year warranty  Smart energy meter  Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity   5m tethered cable   Smart scheduling, voice control feature, and Smart app

These prices include the cost of a standard installation. 

Since 3kW chargers are only marginally cheaper than the faster 7kW model, they are less commonly sold, with the 7kW model being the most purchased (not all cars are compatible with 22kW chargers). A skilled electrician will be able to help you identify the type of charger you need.  

For a more accurate quote (according to the model you want and where you live in the UK), let us know what you have in mind, and speak to a skilled tradesperson today.

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Supply costs (without installation cost): 

• Around £250 to £500 for a 3kW car charger  
• Around £450 to £800 for a 7kW car charger 
• Around £1,000 for a 22kW car charger 

It will take an installer roughly between two and four hours to install your charging point, though the whole process could take upwards of three weeks, as background safety checks will need to be carried out on your property and permission gained from local grid operators to ensure your home is safe to install an electric charger. 

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Do I need planning permission to install a residential electric vehicle charging point?

Planning permission is not required to install a wall mounted electrical recharging station, as long as the area is being lawfully used for off-street parking. 

The electrical outlet must also follow a few other criteria, which can be found here. 

Keep in mind, however, that since June 30^th, 2022, all home and workplace electric car chargers need to have smart charging capability. This is meant to help manage the strain that thousands of electric cars charging at once is producing on the National Grid. 

For more information on Smart Chargers and the Electric Vehicles (Smart Charge Points) Regulations legislation, visit the government website here. 

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Are there any grants for electric car charging points?

The government offers grants to EV owners looking to purchase domestic-use electric charge points, thanks to something known as the Office of Zero Emission Vehicles (OZEV) EV charge point grant. However, you are only eligible for this grant if you own a flat, live in a rented property, or are a landlord. 

This grant provides funding for up to 75% of the cost of your car charger installation. For more information, visit the government electric charging grant scheme page. 

The old Electric Vehicles Homecharge Scheme (EVHS) government grant is no longer taking new applications, as of the beginning of April 2022. 

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How much does it cost to charge an electric car?

Charging an electric car at home can usually be quite cost-effective if you switch to an EV tariff (a cheaper, fixed-rate energy tariff of £0.14/kWh which lowers costs and rewards you for using energy during off-peak times, such as during the night). This could save you around £300 a year. 

However, with the ongoing UK energy crisis, the Energy Saving Trust does not currently recommend attempting to switch to a cheaper EV tariff, as many providers have increased prices or removed this option entirely for new customers. 

The formula to calculate the cost of charging an EV (based on battery capacity) is:  

Size of battery (kWh) x Electricity cost (pence per kWh) = Cost of a full charge. 

10,000 miles a year will cost a standard EV £523.18 if you charge it at home. In comparison, a petrol Nissan Micra will cost £1,554.64 in annual petrol cost. 

Larger cars like the Tesla Model 3 and compact SUVs will cost around £850 for 10,000 miles. 

Solar panels could help you reduce the cost of charging your car to nearly zero, lowering your carbon footprint considerably. Keep in mind that, if you do have or are considering getting solar panels, you will also need to purchase a solar battery in order to be able to charge your car.  

This is because, unless you plan to keep your car at home during the day, you will not be able to take advantage of the free electricity generated by your panels, unless you have a battery to store that energy for you to charge your car at night. 

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How to save money on your electric car charging point

1. Get solar panels installed. Though not essential, in the long run, solar panels could help you save considerably on your energy bills. Newer EV charger models come with energy storing units which your EV can use (through your solar panels) as its primary energy source, thereby enabling you to avoid paying tariffs. You may also be eligible for a solar panel grant, which could help reduce cost of installation. You can find out more here. 

2. Use free charging stations to top up your car. Using free charging points, such as those offered by large supermarkets, could help you save on occasional top-ups, and you can do your shopping whist your car chargers, making it an efficient solution. 

3. Make the most of your smart features. Smart chargers have in-built features which can help you save money, by only charging your car when energy prices are lowest, thereby allowing you to get the best deal you can to charge your car. 

4. Buy the right charger for you. If you only plan on charging your car throughout the night, it makes little sense to invest in a faster charger, like a 22kW charger, since you won’t need the additional speed. 

5. Keep your battery charged between 20% and 80%. Both letting your battery drain completely, and charging it to the max, are things that can damage your EV’s battery life. Between 20% and 80% is an optimal amount to ensure the longevity of your vehicle. Outside of this bracket is also where prices for charging tend to build up as they take longer to charge, therefore increasing costs. 

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How do you know if your house needs rewiring?

There are a few things you can watch out for when it comes to whether your home needs rewiring. These signs might be an indication that your wires need replacing, or that you need a new fuse box: 

1. If your sockets and/or your switches are discoloured or scorched (brown marks), this might be a sign that loose connections are causing tiny fires inside your sockets.  

2. If your fuses are blowing repeatedly and at random, this could be a sign that it’s time to update your wiring (but first, make sure you rule out faulty appliances, as these also cause your fuses to blow). 

3. If there is a burning smell in your home that won’t go away, this is also a warning sign. You should turn off the power (at the circuit) and call an electrician immediately. 

4. If plugging things into a socket causes an electric shock (even a tiny one) then you need to have your sockets checked as soon as possible. 

5. The same goes for a buzzing sound coming from your sockets. If you can hear one, then contact an electrician as soon as you can. 

6. Regular flickering lights, in several rooms of your house, are also a sign that your wiring is damaged. 

To find out whether your home needs rewiring or not, you will need to hire an electrician to conduct an EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report), in order to identify what parts of your electrical circuit no longer comply with regulations. Your electrician will then let you know what the next best steps are for your home. You can hire one here.

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How often should a house be rewired?

You should get an electrical assessment every ten years if you own a house, and every five if you rent one. If your house was already over thirty years old when you got it, and you aren’t aware of it ever having been rewired, then it might be worth hiring an electrician to look at your electrics.  

The general recommendation is that you do a full rewire of your home every 25 years. For more advice on rewiring, visit our complete guide to house rewiring. 

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It will take anywhere between 3 and 20 days to rewire your house, depending on how many bedrooms your property has. 

• For a 2-bedroom house, it should take 3-4 days 
• For a 3-bedroom house, it should take 5-7 days 
• For a 4-bedroom house, it should take 7-10 days 
• For a 5-bedroom house, it should take 10-14 days 

• For a 6-bedroom house, it should take 14-20 days 

How long it takes to rewire your house will also depend on whether you’re living there whilst the rewiring is taking place or if the house is empty, because electricians work faster when the home isn’t occupied. 

This also means that you will usually have to remove all your furniture for your electricians to rewire your house. If that’s the case, you’ll need to hire a removal company and a storage unit.   

If your rewiring requires you to remove the carpets in your home, then you’ll need to hire a carpet fitter to take up and replace your carpets. They tend to cost around £250 a day. 

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How much does rewiring a house cost?

How much you end up spending on your house rewire mostly depends on how big your property is, its layout, and where you live in the UK.  

Quality of fixtures and fittings can also bring costs up or down, as can how many socket outlets you choose to have installed. The below prices look at average costs for rewiring a home. Where you sit on the lower-upper price range will depend on the above factors. 

The average cost for an electrician is £320 a day. 

On average, rewiring a house will cost you: 

How much does it cost to rewire a 1-bedroom house?	£3,300 – £4,400
How much does it cost to rewire a 2-bedroom house?	£4,800 – £5,400
How much does it cost to rewire a 3-bedroom house?	£5,800 – £6,300
How much does it cost to rewire a 4-bedroom house?	£6,800 – £7,800
How much does it cost to rewire a 5-bedroom house?	£8,300 – £12,300

These prices exclude VAT but include: 

1. The cost of removing your old wiring and fittings  

2. The cost of adding new wiring to rooms 

3. The cost of installing sockets and switches  

4. A new metal consumer unit installation 

5. Plastering work to fill the holes created during installation  

6. Testing to ensure everything works properly (usually comes with a certificate to prove regulations have been met) 

Though minor plastering is done during installation, you may still need to hire a decorator, carpenter, or painter. You can do this here. 

We recommend you ask for multiple quotes before you settle on your qualified electrician. Tell us the size and type of property you have and get a free quote today.

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Do I need building regulations for a house rewire? 

Before your electrician rewires your home, they will first conduct an EICR (Electrical Installation Condition Report) to establish damage, deterioration, and defects in your wiring, as well as faulty connections and short circuit protection.  

It’s recommended that you complete an EICR every 10 years, to ensure your house stays safe. They take roughly 3-4 hours to complete. 

As part of this assessment, your fuse board will be inspected, as well as your fixtures and sockets. Prices for this service range from £80 to over £300 depending on how large your property is, and where you live in the UK. 

The inspection must be carried out by a qualified electrician. 

Alongside this, a full rewiring needs to be notified to your local building control department, to make sure it meets the appropriate safety requirements. When you hire your electrician, make sure the work complies with Part P of the building regulations, and make sure your tradesperson gives you all the right certificates once the work is completed. 

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Do I need a new fuse box?

Often, a new fuse box will be included in your package when you hire an electrician to rewire your home. Make sure you ask whether you need a new one, and whether it’s included in your quote. 

A few signs that you need a new fuse box include: 

1. The fuses are loose or have fallen out 

2. Your fuses are constantly tripping  

3. Fuses have melted or there are other visible signs of damage and burns 

4. The fuse box makes strange noises or smells weird  

5. Your fuse box overloads due to it being overworked (an electrician can tell you if this is the case for your fuse box during an inspection) 

On average, a new fuse box will cost you around £320, though this is sometimes included in your quote (as is a new populated consumer unit, £80), so make sure to ask before you make a deal with your electrician. 

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How can I save money on rewiring my home?

There are ways you can save money on your house rewiring. Some good tips to keep in mind before you begin looking at rewiring quotes are: 

1. Buy your own fittings. Often, the fittings supplied by your electrician will be more expensive than ones you can buy for marked down prices, perhaps during clearances and sales. Sourcing your own sockets and plugs can help you keep overall costs down. 

2. Leave your house during the rewiring. If you’re living in your home whilst the rewiring is happening, then it will take longer for your electrician to wire your house, driving up costs since they charge a daily rate. If you can stay elsewhere during the process, this will speed things up. 

3. Make the most of the electricians you’re hiring by getting all your other electrical work done at the same time. This will save you money in the long run, and will allow you to get other features, like smart switches, light fittings, or extra plug sockets installed as well. 

If you think it’s time to rewire your home, then tell us what you’re looking for, and get some free quotes today.

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What are the different types of conservatories?

The main types of conservatories you can get in the UK are: 

Lean-to conservatories 

Often, lean-to conservatories are the most affordable option. They have a single sloping roof that varies in height and length. Lean-to conservatories are good for homes with low rooflines or small gardens. 

Victorian conservatories  

Introduced in the late 1800s, these gothic style conservatories have an apex roofline and a faceted front. These are well-suited for traditional houses with a sufficiently high roofline. 

Edwardian conservatories  

Edwardian conservatories are usually square or rectangle shaped and maximise the amount of space you get from building a conservatory. They suit traditional properties, giving you the classical feel of a Victorian conservatory, but with more space. 

Gable-end conservatories                                                              

Gable-end conservatories have a gable-end, upright roof that reaches upwards, adding extra height to the inside space. They suit both traditional and more modern properties and can fit well into low rooflines if you opt for a hip-back roof, such as for a bungalow conservatory. 

When it comes to layout, you can get P-shaped, T-Shaped, or L-Shaped conservatories, depending on how much space you have, and where that space is (for instance, to the left or right side of your property). These are generally the largest kinds of conservatories. 

Or you could get an orangery. They tend to be more expensive than conservatories because they’re usually built out of bricks and have a more solid roof structure (but this also makes them more energy efficient, saving money on heating bills). 

If you already have a good idea of the kind of conservatory you want to get, let us know what you have in mind and get a free quote today.

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What is the average cost of a conservatory?

The average cost of a new conservatory is between £32,000 and £43,000. 

The most important thing to consider before you hire tradespeople to build your conservatory, is what you plan to use that space for. Do you just want to relax in it, or have you got a practical purpose for it, like an office or a dining area? 

Where you place your conservatory is also important, as north facing conservatories get very cold in the winter, whilst south facing conservatories get really hot around midday. Whether you install underfloor heating or blinds and other cooling options will depend on this, though where you build your conservatory will be restricted by the layout of your home. 

How much you end up spending on your conservatory depends largely on what materials you want it to be built from, and whether you opt for a dwarf wall (a low wall built at the base of your conservatory). How big you want it, and in what design, will impact costs as well. The cheapest conservatories can cost as little as £20,000 whilst larger, more elaborate designs can reach over £60,000. 

The most common roof materials for conservatories are glass, tiling, or polycarbonate. The most common frame materials used for conservatories are fully glazed, uPVC, or wood. Orangeries are usually built out of bricks. 

When it comes to materials, your budget will be a big determining factor, but you should be careful to pick a material that integrates well with your home. A PVC conservatory, for example, would not work well with a period home. Make sure you research your options before you decide. 

A conservatory can take anywhere between two and five weeks to build. 

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How much should a lean-to conservatory cost?

Lean-to conservatories tend to be the cheapest type you can buy, though they’re usually also the smallest. 

For an average sized (3500mm by 3500mm) lean-to conservatory, you could pay anywhere between £28,000 and £36,000, depending on what materials you want it made of. Low budget lean-to conservatories can be built with as little as £16,000 – £20,000, whilst premium costs reach £50,000+.  

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Victorian conservatories take up to a month to build, and don’t usually require planning permission (if your conservatory is no bigger than four metres tall and three metres wide). 

For an average sized (3500mm by 3500mm) Victorian conservatory, you could pay anywhere between £30,000 and £40,000, depending on what materials you want it made from. 

A wood frame Victorian conservatory with a glass roof would cost you between £38,000 – £44,000, depending on size, though you could also opt for a polycarbonate, which is cheaper, lowering costs to between £34,000 and £38,000. Tiled roofing is the most expensive of the three materials, costing upwards of £42,500 for a 3500 x 3500 conservatory. 

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How much does an Edwardian conservatory cost?

Edwardian conservatories take up to a month to build, and do not require planning permission (if the conservatory is less than four metres tall and three metres wide). 

For an average sized (3500mm by 3500mm) Edwardian conservatory, you could pay anywhere between £29,000 and £37,000, depending on what materials you want it made of. The average cost of a new Edwardian conservatory is between £33,000 and £34,000. Your location also impacts labour costs. 

A wood frame Edwardian conservatory with a glass roof would cost you between £34,000 – £35,000, depending on size, though you could also opt for a polycarbonate roof, which is cheaper, lowering costs to between £28,000 and £32,800. Tiled roofing is the most expensive of the three materials, costing upwards of £36,500 for a 3500 x 3500 conservatory. 

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How much does a gable-end conservatory cost?

Gable-end conservatories are a modern take on the Edwardian conservatory style and come in a range of prices. The average gable-end conservatory will cost you between £30,000 and £35,000, depending on size. Budget prices are around £20,000 – £25,000. 

They can take up to a month to build, and do not require planning permission (if your gable-end conservatory is less than four metres tall and three metres wide). Their high vaulted roof offers a lot of natural light and space. 

Tiled roofing is the most expensive of the three materials, costing upwards of £37,000 for a 3500 x 3500 conservatory. 

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How much does a T-shaped conservatory cost?

T-shaped conservatories have one long lean-to, and a middle section that stretches out into your garden and usually have a pitched roof, like the one on an Edwardian conservatory. They’re particularly well suited for larger, detached properties, and offer a lot of additional space. 

The average cost of a T-shaped conservatory is between £35,000 and £40,000, depending on size and your choice of materials. 

T-shaped conservatories allow you to add space, but without giving up too much of your garden either, making them a good compromise between garden and home space. 

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How much does an L-shaped conservatory cost?

The average L-shaped conservatory costs somewhere between £34,000 and £40,000, depending on how big you want your conservatory to be, and the materials you want it built out of. 

L-shaped conservatories are good for homes with large rear space. They work well with all kinds of properties because they blend traditional and modern styles together. 

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How much does a P-shaped conservatory cost?

On average, a P-shaped conservatory could cost between £35,000 and £39,000 to buy and have installed. 

P-shaped conservatories are a lean-to that leads onto a bay fronted area to one side. They can have up to seven glazed panels. This type of conservatory is also highly personalised when it comes to their shape and design. They’re usually suited to larger homes. 

The great thing about P-shaped conservatories is that you can divide the inside space into two areas, giving you further creative licence on how you choose to use your added space. 

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How much should an orangery cost?

Orangeries can cost upwards of £80,000, or as little as £45,000, depending largely on what size you want it to be. The materials will also affect costs. The average orangery costs between £50,000 and £55,000 but can range depending on where you live in the UK. 

Orangery width	Average lower range	Average upper range
4m	£46,000	£48,000
5m	£51,000	£54,000
6m	£59,000	£63,000
7m	£64,000	£69,000
8m	£67,000	£75,000

The main difference between a conservatory and an orangery is that orangeries are more substantial, sitting somewhere in between a conservatory and a proper extension. They’re usually built out of brick pillars and have a solid roof, which can either be made of glass or be fully tiled like a standard roof. 

It can be hard to pick between a conservatory and an orangery, as both have pros and cons. If you aren’t sure which would be best for you, consider: 

Pros of a conservatory	Cons of a conservatory
There are loads of different designs and styles to suit every type of home, and conservatories are also highly customisable  Allow lots of natural light to enter your home  Basic conservatory options are much more affordable than orangeries	Conservatories are prone to getting really cold in the winter and really hot in the summer, so you’ll need to properly insulate yours with the right frames, glazing, and insulating roof  Depending on the layout of your home, conservatories sometimes offer less privacy since they are usually built primarily out of glass  Conservatories have a high carbon footprint

On the other hand, orangeries: 

Pros of an orangery	Cons of an orangery
Their brick base structure helps them blend in better with your property  Often more energy efficient than conservatories and other extension types  Tend to add more value to your home than conservatories   Considered more elegant and aesthetic than conservatories	Though you can get orangeries with large windows, they usually offer less natural light than conservatories   On average, orangeries cost more to build than conservatories   Often require more upfront design work than conservatories to ensure that your orangery fits in well with the rest of your home

Your choice between a conservatory and an orangery will also be determined by what you want to use the space for. Orangeries are better suited for practical spaces like kitchens, though they will of course offer a worse view of your garden than a conservatory might. 

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Does a conservatory need a dwarf wall?

You can choose to get a dwarf wall installed in your conservatory to provide a stronger support for the frame, which is especially important if you want a thick piece of glass or a tiled roof on your conservatory. They extend from the ground by about a metre and are the most popular choice for homeowners. 

They can be incorporated into all conservatory designs and are a fairly standard feature of most conservatories. They also help to keep your glass clean from dirt and dust on the floor. 

Otherwise, you can choose to opt for a fully glazed conservatory instead. These are fashionable and are considered very aesthetic thanks to their top to bottom glass facades. However, they’re less safe when it comes to security breaches, and are also less well insulated than dwarf walls. To ensure neither of these things becomes a problem, you may need to invest in a thicker glass to keep the heat in, and the intruders out. 

Dwarf walls are more expensive than fully glazed but they’re more secure. 

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Conservatory groundwork

The ground underneath your conservatory needs to be prepared to support the structure, both in terms of excavations, and levelling the ground to make sure it’s secure. It also needs to be properly damp-proof and insulated, in accordance with Building Regulations. 

How deep your foundations need to be, and what materials you will choose should be assessed before you buy materials or hire tradespeople. You can do this by getting a site survey done on your property. 

How much you spend on your groundworks will depend on how deep your foundations are, and the materials used. Steel and concrete are popular options. The groundworks will often be included in your package, so make sure you check when you ask for quotes. Let us know what you’re looking for and get some free quotes today.

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You also need the correct drainage for your conservatory, so that it’s connected to the main water supply. Installing the right pipework usually costs between £800 – £1,200 but can vary depending on the extent of the project requirements.  

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How big can a conservatory be without planning permission?

If you want to avoid having to apply for planning permission in order to be able to build your conservatory, then the new build needs to fall under permitted development rights. 

This means that: 

• Only half the area of the land around your home can be covered by the conservatory 
• Your conservatory can’t be higher than the highest part of the roof on your home / higher at the eaves than the existing eaves  
• Your conservatory can’t create an alteration to your roof  
• Your conservatory can’t be built forward of the ‘principal elevation’, or where it fronts a highway, the ‘side elevation’ 

For the full set of requirements, visit the Planning Portal website, or contact your Local Planning Authority before you hire tradespeople to begin work on your new conservatory. 

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How much does it cost to put underfloor heating in a conservatory?

Underfloor heating costs between £1,200 and £5,000, depending on the type of underfloor heating you want installed, and the size of the floor you want fitted. Check out our underfloor heating cost guide for more information.

For an accurate quote on how much it can cost you to install underfloor heating in your conservatory, tell us the dimensions of the room, and get a free quote today.

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How can I heat my conservatory cheaply?  

If you don’t want to install underfloor heating, there are other options available to keep your conservatory warm, especially during the winter months. 

You could… 

1. Install radiators – a large living room radiator costs anywhere between £280 and £550 to buy and install, depending on the quality of materials, and where you live in the UK  

2. Buy electric panel heaters – they usually cost upwards of £60 per panel 

3. Buy electric blankets – these start from around £15 – £20 

4. Have an internal insulated roof installed – this costs between £1,000 and £2,000 to install. Roof insulation panels usually cost between £2,500 and £6,000 

5. Insulate the floor with a large rug or hire a carpet fitter to put a carpet into your conservatory – a basic carpet will cost £13 per m² to install, an average priced carpet will cost around £28 per m² to install, and a luxury carpet will cost £50 per m² to buy and install. For a 3m x 3m room, a new carpet would cost roughly £117 – £252 – £450, according to lower – average – and upper ranges 

6. Install some blinds – this is a popular solution, that costs roughly £1,500 (£1,000 – £2,000) 

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How much does it cost to replace a conservatory roof?

If you already have a conservatory, and are only looking to replace the roof, then these are some ballpark prices for what you might pay for the installation: 

The average cost of a 4m x 4m polycarbonate roof replacement is between £6,000 and £13,000. 

The average cost of a 4m x 4m glass roof replacement is roughly £14,500, or anywhere from £9,500 to £20,000. 

The average cost of a 4m x 4m tiled roof replacement is around £17,000. 

It’s usually more cost-efficient to replace your conservatory roof rather than the whole conservatory. Getting a properly insulated, new conservatory roof can significantly reduce your energy bills. 

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How much does it cost to replace conservatory guttering?

If you already own a conservatory, you may be looking to have some work done on your conservatory gutters. Some common jobs include: 

• Around £100 per gutter joint (4m length) 
• Around £600 to replace a cast iron gutter  
• Around £350 to replace a PVC gutter (4m length) 
• Around £75 to fit a new leaf guard (2m length) 
• Around £60 for a new stop end  
• Around £50 to rejoin a gutter to a downpipe  

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Is a conservatory cheaper than an extension?

A conservatory will almost always be cheaper than an extension (of the same size). Prices will always vary according to the complexity of the build, its structure, and the quality of the materials you use.  

Whether you get an extension or a conservatory largely depends on what you want to do with the added space. Conservatories are great for most home renovation projects, including adding new dining rooms, libraries, offices, home gyms, and a lot more.  

If you’re looking to add a new bedroom (recognised as one of the best ways to add value to your home) or a new bathroom, then an extension might be the better option for you. Head over to our home extension guide to take a look at prices for a range of different extension types. 

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How to save money on a conservatory

If you’re trying to budget for a new conservatory, here are five simple tips you can follow to save money on your new extension: 

1. Choose materials that will save you money down the line – this isn’t just referring to durable materials that are less likely to lead to replacement costs, but also energy-efficient materials, like double glazing, that will help insulate your conservatory, reducing your energy usage and spending. Often, spending a little more on your materials will ramp up the costs in the short-term, but will save you money in the long term, helping you be more environmentally friendly, whilst minimising the cost of repairs. 

2. Make sure you thoroughly plan ahead – knowing exactly what you want and need will help you avoid spending money on unnecessary add-ons and will cut the overall waste of your project. One example of this is thinking about how many sockets you will need in your conservatory. If you’re building a dining room conservatory, then you might need fewer than you would if you were using the space for a games room, or a living room, where more sockets are useful. 

3. Request several quotes – the best way to get your money’s worth for a new conservatory is to shop around for multiple quotes before you settle on your builders and materials. Knowing the lower and upper cost brackets for your specific project is a good idea when it comes to planning for your new conservatory. 

4. Use your space efficiently – the larger your conservatory, the more you will spend, but using your available space wisely can help you maximise the ‘feel’ of the total space you get, without raising the prices too much. Hiring an architect can help you do this, as they can draw up a floor plan that will make the most of your situation. 

5. If you already have a conservatory, and you’re thinking of replacing it, then just replacing the roof rather than the whole thing can save you a lot of money. If you’re in this position, reusing the parts of your conservatory that are still in good working order is another great way to save money on materials.

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