When planning a bathroom makeover, the choice of wall finish is critical for both aesthetics and long-term durability. Tiling has always been the gold standard, but modern alternatives like wall panels now offer compelling benefits that appeal to budget-conscious and maintenance-averse homeowners. So, what is the best wall finish for a bathroom? The choice often comes down to budget, maintenance, and the overall look you want to achieve.

1. Traditional ceramic or porcelain tiles

Tiles remain the classic, highly durable champion for bathrooms, especially in high-moisture zones like showers and baths.

The advantages:

• Unrivalled water protection: When correctly installed with a quality waterproof membrane underneath and sealed grout, tiles are the gold standard for waterproofing. Porcelain, in particular, has a near-zero absorption rate.
• Exceptional durability and lifespan: A well-tiled wall can easily last 25 years or more. Tiles are scratch-resistant, impact-resistant, and impervious to most cleaning products.
• Limitless design versatility: Tiles offer unparalleled creative freedom, with options ranging from simple metros and complex mosaics to large-format stone and marble replicas, allowing for total customisation.
• High perceived value: Tiling, particularly with quality materials like natural stone or large-format porcelain, adds significant value and a premium feel to a property.

The challenges:

• High installation cost and time: Tiling is highly labour-intensive. It requires skilled professionals, precise cutting, adhesive time, grouting, and curing. This significantly extends the project timeline and is often the most expensive option on a per-square-metre basis.
• The grout problem: The major weak point is the grout. It is porous and can discolour, stain, crack, and become a breeding ground for mould and mildew if not regularly cleaned and maintained (or sealed).
• Extensive preparation: Walls must be perfectly level and prepared with a waterproof backer board before tiling can begin, adding to the prep time and complexity.
• Cold to the touch: Tiles can make the room feel colder than other finishes, often requiring underfloor heating to mitigate.

2. Waterproof wall panels (bathroom cladding)

Wall panels, often called “wet wall panels” or “shower boards,” have rapidly gained popularity as a sleek, low-maintenance alternative to tiling. They are typically made from PVC, laminates on an MDF/plywood core, or acrylic.

The advantages:

• Seamless, grout-free surface: This is the key selling point. The large panels slot together with a tongue-and-groove or click-lock system, eliminating grout lines entirely. This makes them incredibly hygienic and resistant to mould.
• Rapid, low-mess installation: Panels can be installed up to 75x faster than tiles and can often be fixed directly over existing surfaces (like old tiles or damaged plaster), saving on demolition and preparation costs.
• Low maintenance: A simple wipe-down with a soft cloth and mild detergent is all that’s needed. No scrubbing grout is required.
• Cost-effective labour: While high-quality panels can be comparable in material price to mid-range tiles, the reduced labour time makes the overall installation significantly cheaper.

The challenges:

• Less customisation: Panels come in large, fixed sheets, limiting the custom, mixed-material designs possible with individual tiles. While styles are now sophisticated (e.g., seamless marble or slate effects), they lack the tactile texture of real stone.
• Perceived quality: Lower-end PVC panels can look visibly “plastic” or feel less substantial than ceramic tiles, potentially lowering the perceived value of the bathroom.
• Difficult to repair: If a panel is significantly scratched or damaged, it is often not possible to replace just a section; the entire panel must be removed, which can be tricky and costly.

3. Specialist bathroom paint

For areas outside of the direct “splash zone” (e.g., the top half of a wall above half-height tiling, or in a well-ventilated cloakroom), paint offers flexibility and budget control.

The advantages:

• Cheapest Option: Paint is by far the most affordable choice in terms of material cost.
• Maximum Design Flexibility: Changing the colour is simple, fast, and inexpensive, allowing you to quickly refresh the entire look of the room to follow trends or personal tastes.
• Easy DIY: Painting is the most accessible task for the average DIY enthusiast, saving significantly on labour costs.

The challenges:

• Zero Water Resistance (in the wrong areas): Standard emulsion paint is unsuitable for bathrooms. You must use a specialist bathroom paint formulated with mould and mildew inhibitors and a tougher finish (usually a satin or soft sheen). Even specialist paint is not suitable for use inside a shower or around the immediate edge of a bath.
• Ongoing Maintenance: Paint has the shortest lifespan of all options and will eventually need repainting, especially if ventilation is poor.
• Surface Imperfections: Paint reveals every imperfection in the underlying plaster, requiring extensive preparation to achieve a smooth finish.

4. Microcement (Micro-concrete)

Microcement is the trendy, modern option. It is a polymer-modified, cement-based coating applied in thin layers to create a seamless, waterproof, and textured finish.

The advantages:

• Seamless, architectural aesthetic: Microcement creates a unique, continuous, grout-free surface that flows across walls and floors, offering a clean, industrial, or minimalist concrete look. This makes small bathrooms feel significantly larger.
• Total versatility: It can be applied directly over almost any existing, stable surface, including old tiles, plaster, or concrete, reducing demolition and waste.
• 100% waterproof: When properly sealed with commercial-grade polyurethane varnish, microcement is suitable for all wet areas, including shower trays.
• Highly customisable: You can choose the exact colour (pigment) and texture (from smooth to highly rustic) for a truly bespoke, designer finish.

The challenges:

• Highest initial cost: Microcement requires a high level of skill and experience to apply correctly. The process involves multiple thin layers and curing times, making the installation price comparable to or even higher than high-end tiling.
• Durability is sealant-dependent: While the material itself is strong, the water resistance relies heavily on the quality and integrity of the final polyurethane sealant. If the sealant is damaged or applied incorrectly, water can penetrate, leading to staining.
• Difficult to repair: Like panels, if the surface is severely damaged, patching is difficult to blend, and the area may require full re-application.
• Longer project time: The application process is slow, requiring several days for various layers to cure before the final sealant is applied and cured.

The importance of a trusted professional

Whatever you opt for, the finish is only as good as the installation. While a non-specialist might be able to glue a few panels to a flat wall, they may not correctly seal the joints or integrate the panel system with the shower mixer and waste pipes. Similarly, a poorly installed tile job will suffer from cracking, uneven surfaces, and potential leaks through faulty grout. 

A professional, bathroom fitter has the expertise to correctly prepare the walls, install the chosen system to be fully waterproof, and ensure the finish is flawless—be it a seamless panel or a meticulously laid tile pattern. This guarantees the longevity and integrity of your chosen finish.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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When embarking on a bathroom renovation, the question of who buys the fittings—you or your professional fitter—is more than a matter of convenience; it’s a critical decision that influences cost, project efficiency, and, most importantly, consumer protection.

Option 1: Buying materials online (client sourcing)

Opting to source your own taps, showers, and toilets is typically driven by a desire for maximum control over aesthetics and budget.

The advantages for the homeowner

• Potential for significant cost savings: By shopping across various online retailers, comparing prices, and utilizing sales or discount codes, you can often secure items at a lower unit price than a fitter’s quoted rate.
• Unlimited design choice: You are not restricted to the stock available through your fitter’s trade suppliers. This freedom is essential for sourcing unique finishes (e.g., matte black, brushed gold) or specific designer brands that make a statement.
• Direct warranty control: The product warranty is held directly between you and the retailer/manufacturer, which can sometimes streamline a claim process years down the line if the product is defective.

The risks and unforeseen liabilities

The financial and logistical burden of client sourcing can be substantial, often eliminating initial savings.

• Risk of incompatibility: This is the biggest pitfall. You are responsible for ensuring every fitting is technically compatible with your existing plumbing and bathroom structure. Common errors include:
  • Ordering a high-flow shower that is unsuitable for your home’s low water pressure.
  • Selecting a toilet or basin waste that does not match your pipework connections.
  • Failing to check the depth or required space for concealed units (like cisterns or shower valves) behind your wall.
• Liability for product faults and re-fit costs: If a product you supplied is faulty or damaged, your fitter is only liable for the quality of the installation. You are responsible for:
  • Arranging the return and replacement of the defective item with the supplier.
  • Paying the fitter for any days they are delayed while waiting for the replacement.
  • Paying the fitter for the second time to install the replacement item.
• Logistical burden: You must manage deliveries, check goods for damage immediately, and store everything safely on site. Furthermore, you must ensure you order all the smaller, necessary parts (ancillaries), such as wastes, traps, fixing kits, and flexi-hoses, which are often not included with the main fitting and can be confusing to identify.

Option 2: Letting your fitter source (trade sourcing)

This is the standard, low-stress method, where your fitter manages the supply chain, installation, and associated risks.

The advantages of professional sourcing

This option is primarily about security, accountability, and efficiency.

• Simplified, unified accountability: The fitter is the sole contractor providing both the goods and the service. Under consumer law (e.g., the Consumer Rights Act in the UK), if the shower leaks due to a faulty valve, the fitter is liable for:
  • Replacing the faulty valve at their cost.
  • Covering the labour time for the removal and re-fit.
• Guaranteed compatibility: Your fitter uses their professional knowledge to order products they know will work with your home’s specific plumbing conditions, virtually eliminating installation errors and delays due to incorrect sizing.
• Project efficiency and reliability: All materials arrive checked for damage and on schedule. Fitters typically work with reputable trade brands that offer good quality control, reducing the likelihood of defects and ensuring a smooth, continuous workflow.
• Trade warranty access: Fitters often benefit from faster warranty replacement services from their trusted trade partners, significantly reducing downtime compared to a consumer going through a standard online retailer.

The financial and aesthetic compromises

• Higher Overall Cost: The fitter will apply a small, fair markup to the trade price they pay for materials. This margin compensates them for their time spent sourcing, managing logistics, and covering the significant liability they assume.
• Limited Brand Selection: You will generally be restricted to the brands and models available through their established trade accounts, potentially sacrificing a niche design for reliability and convenience.
• Less Transparent Pricing: The initial quote may bundle the material cost and the labour cost together, making it harder to see the exact price of an item versus the fitter’s markup. (Tip: Always request an itemised quote.)

Conclusion: A strategic approach to sourcing

The decision should be made strategically, weighing liability against savings.

• Prioritise fitter sourcing for technical items: For all fittings concealed behind walls or that are essential for the system’s function, such as thermostatic shower valves, in-wall toilet frames, and boiler components, it is highly recommended to let the fitter supply them. The cost of a re-fit for a faulty concealed unit is almost never worth the initial saving.
• Consider client sourcing for visual items: You can safely source items that require little or no plumbing integration, such as mirrors, accessories, lighting, and even specific tile brands, to satisfy your design preferences and budget.
• Mandatory consultation: If you are determined to buy a specific tap or toilet online, you must send the product’s full technical specification sheet to your fitter for approval before you place the order. They need to verify the connections and compatibility to prevent costly delays.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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A full bathroom renovation often comes with a hefty price tag, with the UK average sitting well above the £5,000 mark. However, achieving a high-quality, durable and budget-friendly bathroom refit for under £3,500 is entirely possible—it requires smart choices, prioritising function, and being disciplined about keeping the existing layout. 

The key is distinguishing between cheap (poor quality) and cost-effective (good value and long-lasting). By making strategic savings on materials and labour, you can ensure a professional finish without compromising on the quality of the essential components.

The golden rule of saving money: don’t move the plumbing

The most expensive part of any renovation is the labour required to move pipes and waste points. To stay under a tight budget, the main focus must be a like-for-like replacement of your existing suite.

• Saving: Keeping the toilet, basin, and bath in their current positions dramatically reduces the plumber’s time and avoids complex, costly ‘first-fix’ pipework, which can easily add £500 – £1,500 to the labour bill.
• Example: A standard full refit with a layout change might take 7-10 days of professional labour. Sticking to the original layout can cut this time down to 4-5 days, potentially saving over £1,000 in fitter fees.

Corner-by-corner cost-saving guide

The biggest savings are found by substituting high-cost materials and fixtures for durable, budget-friendly alternatives.

1. The core suite: Bath, basin, and toilet

This is where you should look for value in volume, choosing standard sizes that are mass-produced for lower cost.

• Cost-saving idea: Opt for a simple, three-piece close-coupled acrylic suite. Acrylic baths (£150 – £250) are far cheaper and lighter than steel or stone resin, and standard close-coupled toilets (£100 – £200) are the most economical choice. Look for package deals from large national retailers, which often sell a full suite (toilet, basin, bath) for as little as £350 – £500.
• Quality check: Ensure the bath is at least 5mm thick (often marketed as ‘reinforced’ or ‘super-strong’) and the toilet is a reputable brand to avoid poor-quality flush mechanisms that break easily.

2. Walls and tiling

Tiling a whole bathroom is incredibly labour-intensive and material-heavy. Limit the tiled area dramatically to save on both material costs and the fitter’s time.

• Cost-saving idea: Use paint instead of tiles on non-wet walls, or use a tile alternative. Only tile the essential splash zones: inside the shower/bath area and a small section behind the basin. Choose basic, widely available ceramic metro tiles (e.g., White Gloss 10x20cm), which can cost as little as £10 – £15 per square metre (m²). For a typical small bathroom, limiting tiling to 8-10m² can keep material costs under £150.
• Alternative: Consider waterproof bathroom wall panels for the shower area. While they might cost slightly more per panel (£30 – £60 per m²) than budget ceramic tiles, they are dramatically faster to install, saving you up to two full days of labour, which could save £500 – £700 on the overall job.

3. Flooring

Luxury vinyl flooring (LVT) is the budget-friendly champion, offering excellent durability and waterproofing at a low price.

• Cost-saving idea: Choose sheet vinyl (lino) or click LVT planks over ceramic or porcelain tiles. LVT is completely waterproof, warm underfoot, and requires no adhesive or grout, making installation incredibly fast—often done in just a few hours.
• Price example: Sheet vinyl can start from £10 per m², meaning a 4m² floor could cost just £40 in materials. Compare this to mid-range porcelain tiles at £30 per m², which would cost £120 in materials plus all the adhesive and grout.

4. Brassware and accessories

While brassware (taps and shower) can be tempting to save on, remember that these parts get the most use. A professional fitter will recommend spending a little more here for longevity.

• Cost-saving idea: Choose standard chrome finish mixer taps and an exposed thermostatic mixer shower (where the pipework runs on the outside of the wall). Exposed systems are cheaper to fit than concealed systems because they require less complicated in-wall plumbing. Look for end-of-line stock or retailer own-brands for standard basin mixer taps (£30 – £60) and basic thermostatic showers (£100 – £200).
• Quality check: Ensure your shower valve is thermostatic. This prevents scalding and is a crucial safety feature worth the minor extra cost.

5. Labour and Installation

Labour is the largest single cost. The way you manage the project can provide crucial savings.

• Cost-saving idea: Do the simple prep work and finishing yourself. This includes:
  • Strip-out: Removing the old suite and tiles yourself can save a professional half a day’s labour (approx. £150 – £250) and removes the cost of skip hire.
  • Painting: Once the fitter has finished the plumbing and tiling, paint the walls and ceiling yourself.
  • Accessory installation: Fit the non-plumbed accessories, such as the mirror, towel rail, and toilet roll holder, after the professional leaves.
• Professional focus: Hire a professional bathroom fitter solely for the core technical work: plumbing, sub-floor preparation, waterproofing, and the main tiling.

By committing to a simple layout and making these cost-effective material choices, you can allocate your budget intelligently, ensuring that the critical structural and plumbing work is done to a professional standard, while achieving a fresh, durable, and modern aesthetic.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Durable and budget-friendly bathroom refits (under £3,500) appeared first on Rated People Blog.

The secret to a stress-free bathroom renovation and fair pricing lies in one simple document: your job description. A clear, comprehensive brief not only helps you find a bathroom fitter quickly but also ensures you know how to get the best bathroom quotes. Ambiguity leads to higher quotes and unexpected costs down the line, so clarity is key to establishing a professional relationship based on mutual understanding.

Your bathroom fitter job description template essentials

The following points form the best job brief for a bathroom remodel. Be detailed—the more information you provide, the more accurate and competitive your quotes will be.

• Scope of work: Clearly state whether this is a full rip-out, a simple swap (like-for-like), or a major reconfiguration involving moving the toilet or shower. Note whether the ceiling or lighting will be replaced.
• Dimensions & access: Include the room’s size (in metres), ceiling height, and note any access issues (e.g., parking restrictions, third-floor flat, limited working hours).
• Fittings and materials: List all items to be installed (e.g., wall-hung vanity, walk-in shower with specific door type, thermostatic mixer). State whether these are already purchased or need to be sourced.
• Tiling and finish: Specify the area to be tiled (e.g., floor and shower enclosure only, or floor-to-ceiling) and the tile type (e.g., small subway tiles vs. large format porcelain). Mention any desire for underfloor heating.

How to negotiate and get the best quotes

Once you have your detailed job brief, you’re ready to receive quotes. A professional will appreciate your detail and respond with a tailored, accurate price.

• Compare like-for-like: With a specific brief, you can easily compare costs. Look for a breakdown of labour vs. materials to ensure transparency. If a quote is significantly lower, question what has been omitted (e.g., waterproofing, waste disposal).
• Negotiate scope: You can confidently negotiate bathroom fitter price if you have comparative quotes. A common area of negotiation is the scope of work—for instance, can you handle the paint prep and waste disposal yourself to reduce their labour time and cost?
• Ask for details: Ensure the quote specifically details the waterproofing method used for the shower/bath area and the exact products they intend to install if they are sourcing materials.

Key questions to ask a bathroom installer before hiring

To vet your shortlist, use these essential questions to ask a bathroom installer. Their answers will reveal their professionalism, specialism, and reliability:

1. Experience: How many bathrooms did you complete last year, and do you specialise in any particular style (e.g., wet rooms, period properties)?
2. Insurance & warranty: Are you fully insured (Public Liability) and do you offer a guarantee on your workmanship?
3. Project management: How long will the project take, what are your typical working hours, and what is your payment schedule (milestones)?
4. References: Can I see three recent photos of your work, particularly close-ups of the tiled corners and sealant, or speak to a previous client?
5. Subcontracting: Will you personally be doing all the plumbing, tiling, and electrics, or will you be subcontracting any of the work?

Example job description for a three-piece refit

A well-written brief should be simple and direct, like the following example:

Job Title: Full Bathroom Refit (Like-for-Like Layout) – London E1

Room Dimensions: 2.5m x 1.8m (H: 2.4m). Ground floor access with driveway parking available.

Scope of work:

1. Full rip-out and disposal of existing suite, tiling, and flooring (fitter to manage skip/waste).
2. All plumbing to remain in the existing positions (toilet, basin, bath waste).
3. Installation of customer-supplied new three-piece suite (pedestal basin, standard bath, close-coupled toilet).
4. Tiling of the floor (4m² porcelain tiles) and tiling of the shower walls only (10m² metro tiles) with required waterproofing membrane around the bath area.
5. Installation of a new heated towel rail (existing pipework).
6. Final installation of customer-supplied LED mirror and vanity light (electrics to be certified by a qualified electrician).
7. All necessary plastering and sealing.

Timeline: Ideal start date within the next 4-6 weeks. Estimated duration 5-7 working days.

The importance of a trusted professional

By using Rated People to find a trusted professional, you gain an expert who will adhere to your brief, guarantee their work, and ultimately deliver a bathroom that lasts. Your upfront effort in writing the perfect bathroom fitter job description directly correlates to the quality of the finished product.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post How to write the perfect bathroom fitter job description to get the best quotes appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Victorian and Edwardian properties remain hugely popular in the UK, offering a sense of history, grandeur, and timeless elegance. However, breathing new life into these spaces is often a complex task. Unlike renovating a modern house, a period property requires a blend of historical sensitivity, specialist sourcing, and advanced plumbing knowledge to avoid damaging the original structure. 

A successful project is less a refurbishment and more a detailed process of restoration while seamlessly integrating modern functionality. This work is certainly not for an amateur, as the challenges of renovating an old bathroom are often hidden behind layers of plaster and decades of non-standard repairs.

The elegant distinction: Victorian vs. Edwardian style

While both styles are often grouped together as ‘period,’ they represent distinct aesthetic and social changes that a professional fitter must be aware of to achieve historical authenticity.

Victorian style (mid-to-late 1800s)

The Victorian era embraced opulence, dark colours, and highly decorative features, often reflecting the wealth of the Industrial Revolution. Key characteristics of a Victorian bathroom include:

• Fixtures: A large, cast-iron roll-top bath, often positioned centrally or prominently. The toilet would typically have a high-level cistern with a decorative pull chain.
• Materials: Deep, rich colours such as burgundy, forest green, or deep blue. Floors often feature intricate geometric mosaic tiling, and the walls might have decorative tiles halfway up, complemented by darker paint or panelling above.
• Brassware: Ornate brass or polished nickel taps, with exposed pipework celebrated rather than concealed.

Edwardian style (early 1900s)

The Edwardian era, following the death of Queen Victoria, saw a shift towards lighter, airier, and slightly less ornate spaces. Hygiene was becoming a greater priority, leading to a cleaner aesthetic. Key characteristics of an Edwardian bathroom include:

• Fixtures: Simpler, slightly smaller roll-top baths (like the slipper style). Toilets often moved to mid- or low-level cisterns, prioritising practicality over height. Basins were larger, often supported by chrome legs or full pedestals.
• Materials: White, cream, and lighter pastel shades dominated. Tiling was often simpler, with white subway (or metro) tiles used extensively on the walls, paired with monochrome chessboard floor tiles.
• Brassware: Chrome finishes became more popular, offering a cleaner, more hygienic look than brass.

The structural challenges of renovating an old bathroom

When dealing with a period property bathroom renovation, the structural condition is the first major obstacle. Years of leaks, poor ventilation, and non-standard construction methods mean that floors, walls, and ceilings are rarely level, plumb, or strong enough for modern fittings.

The problem: Floors in older properties are often warped, and the joists may have been weakened by historic water damage. A modern, heavy bath filled with water or a wet room installation requires a perfectly flat, robust base. Installing a new suite onto uneven walls will result in gaps, awkward tiling, and fixtures that look noticeably crooked.

Mitigation: A skilled, local bathroom fitter will first strip the room back to the bare structure and assess the joists. The floor may need to be strengthened or entirely replaced with marine-grade ply to ensure a stable, level base. Walls will often require re-plastering or the addition of drywall layers to create plumb, square surfaces ready for tiling. This foundational work is non-negotiable for a professional finish.

Dealing with Victorian plumbing and pipework

The hidden pipework of a period home poses significant risks. Authentic Victorian plumbing relied on materials and methods that are simply not compliant or safe by today’s standards.

The problem: You are likely to encounter lead pipework, which is a health hazard, or old galvanised steel and cast-iron waste pipes, which corrode and rust internally, drastically reducing flow and capacity. Connecting modern plastic or copper pipework to these old, brittle systems requires specialist fittings and expert knowledge to prevent slow-motion leaks that destroy the surrounding structure. Furthermore, older homes were not built for the powerful water pressure of a modern combi boiler or power shower.

Mitigation: A professional plumber should always advise on replacing all exposed lead and galvanised steel pipework back to the nearest supply point. This ensures health and safety compliance and reliable water pressure. They will also need to introduce pressure-reducing valves or pumps to ensure the new brassware can cope with modern supply systems, all while carefully navigating the existing architecture to keep pipework concealed where desired, or exposed where it enhances the Victorian bathroom renovation aesthetic.

Water and drainage hurdles

Drainage and waterproofing in a period property bathroom renovation are far more complex than in a new build.

The problem: Original waste pipes and soil stacks (the main vertical pipe for toilet waste) are often cast iron and may be internally scaled up, cracked, or simply too small in diameter for modern, high-volume fixtures. When converting a small box room into a bathroom, connecting the new toilet waste to the old stack can be incredibly difficult due to the stack’s position and lack of access. This is one of the biggest challenges of renovating an old bathroom.

Mitigation: The fitter must assess the existing soil stack. If it is old cast iron, it may be necessary to replace the section connecting the new bathroom with modern plastic equivalents, ensuring that all joints are sealed with specialist couplings. If the bath or shower is slow to drain, the fitter must inspect the fall of the waste pipes, possibly adjusting the routing to ensure a minimum gradient is achieved to prevent blockages and foul smells from venting back into the room.

Securing your investment in period restoration

The intricacies involved in a period property bathroom renovation—from reinforcing floors and replacing plumbing to achieving perfect period symmetry—demand a highly skilled professional. Attempting to manage these challenges yourself or relying on a general tradesperson who lacks experience with heritage properties is a false economy.

A mistake in structural work or plumbing can cost tens of thousands of pounds to rectify, negating any initial savings. By using a knowledgeable bathroom fitter, you are gaining an expert who understands historical compliance, modern building regulations, and guarantees the quality of the essential, invisible work that ensures your beautifully restored period bathroom remains dry and functional for decades to come.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post A professional’s approach to Victorian and Edwardian bathroom renovations appeared first on Rated People Blog.

A mobility bathroom conversion is more than just installing new fittings; it’s about radically improving a person’s quality of life and independence. The complexity and compliance required mean that standard bathroom fitter skills are not enough—you need a specialist with specific skills. 

These projects require a deeper understanding of user needs, legislation, and grant processes to ensure the finished space is both safe and empowering for the user. Unlike a standard bathroom refit, the margin for error in a mobility conversion is zero, as a mistake could compromise someone’s safety.

Specialist knowledge in accessible bathroom design 

A specialist understands that these rooms must be built around the user’s specific needs, not just standard aesthetics. Key skills involve designing a layout that complies with the highest safety standards. 

Accessible bathroom design principles are built on creating space and eliminating barriers. This means ensuring there is sufficient turning room for wheelchairs (often a 1500mm diameter clear floor space), and that all light switches, plug sockets, and controls are placed at heights that are reachable from a seated position. A professional designer will factor in these measurements from the very start, tailoring the entire layout to the specific person using the room.

The importance of a level access shower installation

The most fundamental feature in most mobility conversions is the level access shower installation. This removes the physical barrier of a conventional shower tray lip or step, making it easily accessible for wheelchairs, shower chairs, or simply for people with unstable balance. 

Installing a level access shower is complex because it requires specialist knowledge of sub-floor drainage. The fitter must carefully build a subtle slope (known as a gradient) into the floor structure so that water flows directly and quickly into the drain without flooding the rest of the room. This process often involves adjusting or replacing the floor joists to house the drainage system, making it a highly specialised piece of structural work that demands expert plumbing and waterproofing skills.

Expertise in fitting safe and comfortable fixtures

A bathroom fitter for disability needs is skilled at installing fixtures designed for safety and ease of use. This goes beyond simply mounting items onto the wall. They must understand the correct load-bearing fixings for grab rails, ensuring they can safely hold a person’s full weight. This often requires reinforcing the wall structure beforehand.

• Ergonomics: Knowing the correct, specific height and placement for grab rails, seats, and washbasins according to official guidance to provide maximum support.
• Safety features: Installing comfort-height toilets, easy-turn lever taps, and thermostatic mixer showers that prevent scalding by automatically regulating water temperature.
• Flooring: Using specialist, non-porous, slip-resistant materials that meet high safety standards, which is critical when dealing with wet feet or wheelchair movement. The flooring must be sealed to the walls to ensure waterproofing.

Assistance with the DFG grant bathroom conversion process

The financial outlay for a major accessible conversion can be significant, which is why many homeowners look into funding: such as a DFG grant (Disabled Facilities Grant). This government grant can cover a large portion of the cost of the necessary adaptations. A professional fitter who has experience with DFG projects will be able to assist you with the technical specifications and documentation required for your application, ensuring the proposed work meets the local council’s exact requirements and is fully compliant. This expertise saves you time and stress, making sure the project aligns with the funding criteria from the outset.

The value of certified expertise for peace of mind

In mobility-friendly conversions, the difference between a good job and a poor job is the difference between independence and injury. A DIY job or a general tradesperson without specialist experience risks installing fixtures at the wrong height, using inadequate wall fixings for grab rails, or failing to correctly manage the drainage for a level access shower installation. 

When a person’s safety depends on the work being done correctly, you cannot afford to compromise. By using a vetted professional through Rated People, you are ensuring the final product is a safe, compliant, and durable investment in a better quality of life.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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When you’re investing in a new bathroom, the quality of the finish matters as much as the quality of the fixtures. The two key players in this process are the tiler and the fitter, but often, the same person does both jobs. 

While a good tiler can make your room look beautiful, a great bathroom fitter is the tradesperson who ensures the whole room functions flawlessly for years to come. They are the project manager who seamlessly integrates the plumbing, electrics, waterproofing, and aesthetics into a single, cohesive, and long-lasting space.

The difference between a good and great result is often hidden behind the walls. A good tiler will make the surface look perfect; a great fitter will ensure the surface remains perfect because the substrate underneath is sound, waterproof, and correctly prepared.

The art of the good tiler

A good tiler is a master of aesthetics and precision. They are responsible for making your walls and floors look immaculate, focusing on a flawless, symmetrical finish. This includes:

• Layout planning: Starting the tiling pattern in the least conspicuous place (e.g., above the shower mixer) to hide minor cuts and ensuring the pattern is balanced across the room. They understand how to centre a design for maximum visual impact.
• Preparation: Correctly preparing the substrate (the surface beneath the tiles) by ensuring it is level, stable, and clean so that the tiles adhere perfectly.
• Grout work: Uniform grout lines, perfectly clean edges, and the correct sealant where surfaces meet. They also ensure adherence to tiling standards regarding adhesive coverage and necessary expansion joints.

The skill set of a great fitter

A great fitter is a multi-skilled professional—a project manager, a plumber, a waterproofer, and a carpenter rolled into one. They are the professionals you should hire as your main contractor. A great fitter excels in the parts of the job you can’t see:

• Structural integrity: They ensure sub-floors are level and walls are reinforced and plumb (perfectly vertical) before the first tile or sheet is fitted.
• Watertight focus: They prioritise tanking in wet areas to prevent leaks, even if it adds to the project cost. They understand that a great bathroom is a dry bathroom, and they meticulously seal all vulnerable points.
• Holistic finishing: They ensure all fittings (taps, shower heads, waste) are plumbed correctly, tested rigorously, and installed with the same level of care and attention as the tiling.

Picking the right tiles for your home

The choice of tile will greatly influence the complexity and cost of the installation, which a professional fitter will account for.

Discussing your tile choice with your local bathroom fitter early on is crucial, as their expertise will help you select a material that suits both your budget and your home’s structural capabilities.

How to check a bathroom fitter’s work

You should learn how to check a bathroom fitter’s work before signing off on the job. Use this simple bathroom fitting checklist to evaluate the quality of the final product:

• Water Flow: Check all taps and the shower for consistent flow, correct temperature control, and no leaks underneath the basin or bath.
• Sealant: Ensure all silicone sealant is smooth, continuous, and mould-resistant, with no gaps or breaks in the seal, especially where the bath or shower meets the wall.
• Drainage: Fill the sink and bath, then pull the plug. Water should drain quickly with no gurgling noises.
• Tiling red flags: Look out for signs of a bad tiler, such as uneven tile edges (lippage), holes or inconsistencies in the grout, or tiles that sound hollow when tapped (indicating poor adhesive coverage).

The value of certified expertise

While tiling a small area may seem like a straightforward task, the hidden plumbing and waterproofing behind the tiles are what determines your bathroom’s longevity. An experienced fitter will manage every aspect, from waste disposal to electrical connections, ensuring all work complies with the latest regulations..

Attempting complex tasks like waterproofing, shower installation, or major reconstruction yourself can lead to costly water damage and non-compliant electrics. Investing in a professional means investing in a bathroom that not only looks great but is structurally sound and guaranteed to last, saving you significant money and stress on future repairs. 

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post What separates a good tiler from a great fitter? appeared first on Rated People Blog.

A bathroom on the second floor, or any upper level, presents a unique set of challenges that simply don’t exist in ground-floor renovations. From managing water pressure to ensuring effective drainage, the second-floor bathroom plumbing system requires precise planning and execution. 

Understanding the added complexity of this system is the first step in ensuring your upstairs oasis functions perfectly. Unlike ground-floor plumbing, gravity works both for you and against you, creating specific problems that require clever routing from a trained bathroom fitter.

Common drainage and pressure challenges

The two most frequent issues homeowners face with upper-level bathrooms are related to water movement and waste removal, which require specific solutions to ensure comfort and function.

Water pressure and supply issues

If your upstairs shower trickles instead of sprays, you are likely dealing with insufficient head pressure from the supply pipes. This is especially common in older homes with gravity-fed systems. Solutions for second-floor shower pressure low include:

• Pump installation: The most common fix is installing a shower pump or a whole-house pump to boost the flow to your taps and shower.
• Pipe diameter: Sometimes, the issue is the plumbing system itself (e.g., old, small-diameter copper pipes that restrict flow and need replacement).

Upstairs drainage and waste problems

Waste relies on gravity, but getting it there effectively is the challenge. If the drainpipe doesn’t have the correct “fall” or slope, you will experience irritating slow drainage, bad odours, and regular blockages—classic upstairs bathroom problems.

• Siphonage and noise: Improperly vented pipes can lead to a vacuum, causing water to be sucked out of your traps. This results in foul sewer smells and the annoying “gurgling” sound when the toilet is flushed or the basin drains.
• Structural and routing challenges: The path of the pipework through floor joists must be handled carefully to maintain structural integrity, often leading to complex bathroom pipework to navigate around key supports.
• Weight load: Older homes may not have the joist strength to support a large cast iron bath, requiring reinforcement before heavy fixtures are installed.

New installation: Adding a bathroom upstairs

When you are adding upstairs plumbing from scratch, the main challenge is connecting to the existing soil stack (the main vertical waste pipe) and water supply lines, which were likely not designed for the additional demand.

• Soil Stack connection: Finding a compliant path to the soil stack is paramount. If the new bathroom is far from the stack, it may necessitate moving a toilet stack upstairs or, in extreme cases, installing a macerator (though professionals usually prefer conventional gravity drainage for reliability). Moving the stack is a major job and must be handled by a specialist to comply with building regulations.
• Ventilation: All drainage systems require venting to function efficiently and prevent siphonage (where water is sucked out of the trap). Ensuring the new waste connections are correctly vented is key to avoiding gurgling drains and foul smells.

When to call in a professional

With upper-floor plumbing, a mistake can lead to a leak that impacts the ceiling and structure of the room below. This high risk means that experience is non-negotiable. Professional plumbers with Rated People have the expertise to plan the second-floor bathroom plumbing efficiently, minimise structural damage to joists, and correctly calculate the fall needed for waste pipes to prevent upstairs bathroom drainage problems. They will also ensure all pipework meets building regulations, especially when connecting new pipes to old systems. Don’t let a poorly planned installation turn your dream bathroom into a future maintenance nightmare.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Decoding the complex plumbing of a second-floor bathroom appeared first on Rated People Blog.

A wet room is the peak in modern, sleek bathroom design, offering a walk-in shower experience with no tray and often an open-plan feel. However, the success of this design hinges on one critical element: waterproofing. In the trade, this is known as “tanking,” and mastering it is the ultimate skill that separates an amateur installation from a long-lasting, watertight wet room. Without proper waterproofing, you risk catastrophic failure, leading to costly damage to the floor, ceiling, and structure of your home.

The concept of a wet room is simple: the entire space becomes the shower. This means every surface needs to be completely sealed against water ingress. This process is so vital that a skilled professional will spend as much time on the invisible waterproofing layer as they do on the visible tiling. Getting the system right ensures effective wet room leak prevention for the lifetime of the bathroom.

The materials: Choosing your tanking system

The most crucial decision in this process is choosing the correct tanking system. These kits generally fall into two categories, which you may see discussed as a wet room membrane vs paint-on systems:

• Paint-on liquid membranes: These are generally more cost-effective and are painted onto the floor and walls like a thick primer. They require time to cure between coats, which adds a day or two to the schedule, but they are relatively easy to apply and form a flexible seal.
• Sheet membranes: These are pre-formed, flexible plastic or rubber sheets that are adhered to the surface. They are generally considered more robust and allow a professional to tile immediately, as there is no curing time required. They provide a guaranteed thickness of waterproofing across the whole area.

For maximum protection, a bathroom fitter will often recommend a high-quality sheet membrane paired with appropriate sealing tapes for corners and pipe penetrations to create a seamless, impenetrable barrier.

Understanding the wet room waterproofing cost

Understanding these costs requires looking at more than just the materials. This is specialist work, and the price will be determined by several factors: the size of the room, the quality of the membrane chosen, and the time required for meticulous preparation.

Because the installation of the waterproofing layer is the most important step in the entire process, it is not a place to try and save money. Cutting corners here will almost certainly lead to higher costs down the line. A premium membrane kit, while more expensive upfront, provides a superior and more reliable barrier. Your fitter should always include a detailed breakdown of the tanking materials in their quote.

How to waterproof a wet room: A professional process

While the exact steps vary by product, a professional follows a clear process to ensure a lasting result. The key to learning how to waterproof a wet room is acknowledging that the weak points are always the joints and corners:

1. Subfloor preparation: The subfloor must be perfectly stable, strengthened, and sloped towards the drain.
2. Sealing joints: Special sealant and reinforcement tapes are applied to all corners, pipe penetrations, and where the wall meets the floor—this is where water will always find a path.
3. Membrane application: The chosen tanking material is applied meticulously across the entire floor and up the walls to the required height (the “red zone”).
4. Testing: An experienced fitter may conduct a water test, letting water pool on the membrane for 24 hours to ensure it is 100% leak-proof before tiling commences.

The importance of a trusted professional

While a wet room is the ultimate in stylish bathrooms, it is not a job for the novice DIYer. The structural alterations, the sloping of the floor, and the complexity of the tanking system demand specialist expertise. If the waterproofing fails, the consequences are severe, often involving stripping the entire room back to the joists, repairing water damage, and starting again. 

By hiring a trusted bathroom fitter through Rated People, you are gaining a certified expert who understands the manufacturer’s installation requirements, guarantees their work, and ensures your leak prevention is robust enough to last for decades. This certainty offers invaluable peace of mind.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Watertight wet rooms: Why waterproofing is the ultimate skill appeared first on Rated People Blog.