Beamish construction services

Hello Plastic has a very high expansion rate , GRP probably expands also , in the large area you mention, so yes, expansion or incorrect fixings is probably causing your problem , could even be the roof moving slightly with expansion . Joining the two together could cause more problems . There is an adhesive black foam tape used on industrial buildings tin roofs [ about 1 inch thick ] that could be used in the gap. Hope this helps Peter R. Beamish Const. Services.

Hello Carol If it is a listed building then, no . [you could try secondary frames ]. If it is not, then yes . I am just completing a similar project on 6 windows in a two story bay , with wooden windows . We have had problems with hidden wood rot in the frames that had to have new wood cut in before the new double glazing units were fitted . We used stepped units in the lights and normal in the main panes due to size restrictions , fitted with wood beads inside and out , to hide the seals.[ We could not get a router in to rebate the frames.] Hope this helps . Peter R. Beamish Const. Services .

Hello A few points Find a structural engineer that understands timber frame alterations, timber frames flex and settle - a little , brick and steel do not . You have to be very careful not to cut out any of the designed in stability of the 'Box' for want of a better description . You may be able to use a Gluelam type wood beam with a structural up stand in timber , but it would need to be braced and designed into the original design , not easy . Looks like your design is for an independent beam and support inside the timber frame , lateral stability would be an issue as it may be independent from the timber frame . Any new supports would need to be off the actual foundations,[ or wall ] not any concrete floor slab or oversite . What ever you do have it signed off / inspected/ by Building Control and your engineer before it is covered up ! I worked for Barratt Homes building lots of timber frames in the 70/80s Good luck Peter R. Beamish Const Services

Hello Assuming it is an 'old' stone wall , then it would have been constructed with a flexible lime mortar originally, and as it probably has no foundations , a Hydraulic Lime Mortar would be appropriate. This is porous and lets the water that the wall absorbs evaporate .Cement mortars are nonporous , brittle and cause erosion of the stone . The Mix would be 1-3 or 1-2.5 , sand / lime NHL3 , [ 2 sharp -- 1 soft sand ] Mix it 1/2 a day before use , wet the wall well and wear gloves [ its strong ] If it's a modern wall on a found , then a cement / hydrated lime mortar mix would work say 1-1 - 6 [ cement, hydrated lime, sand ] Note the two different types of lime ! Hope this helps . Regards Peter R . Beamish Const. Services

Hello Sam On the inside of a slate roof there could be lime 'torching ' . This is a white hydraulic lime mortar that weather proofs the slate , long before sarking felt was invented . With time [ 100 years !] it drops off and you can sometimes see light between the slates, done in exposed situation roofs. Yes, you are right about the spray insulation , it can cause problems with condensation. Don't be tempted to try to use cement mortar on the inside of the roof , far too brittle, may be more cost effective to strip it and re-slate with a new membrane. Hope this helps. Peter R .

Hello Sue The black mould spores feeds on condensation which condenses out on a cold surface . The surface in question is probably less than 10 deg c , if you turn up the heating and increase the ventilation, a bit , it may disappear . I have a spot in my hall , that if I turn down the rad, a black mould spot appears , turn it up, and it is gone . A laser thermometer shows this up well , normal external walls are about 14-16 deg c , and a lot less around the window reveals . Hope this helps Peter ----- Beamish Const Services

Hello Lynda First a couple of general points -- Never pay up front for anything, [ interims and a final , as the job progresses, is how we work ] a decent contractor has credit accounts, and own their own plant/equipment , so no need for anything up front . Check the contractors insurance policy that all decent contractors have. No cash ,-- cheque or bax to the person you are actually employing . Be around, and ask what is going on , decent contractors will be happy to explain . Get a written quote/estimate , with a decent works list of what is to be done, and with what . Confirm that the job will be all in one go , and that you both agree what is included in the price .[ scaffold, skips , clearing up etc ] Be happy to pay for genuine extras, or additional works , to the agreed list . Keep quotes to yourself, [ ' Beat any quote' = cannot price jobs ] Cheap quotes are often for only 'half ' the job ! See previous work If one company is 'main contractor' , they are responsible for what they have quoted for , quality , coordination, certification, security , LA inspections etc , and the H&S aspect of the trades they employ , you have one person to deal with. If 'you' run the job, you are responsible for all of this , and what I call the ---' everything else' or the overlap/ gap between trades -- which is a lot of work . On big building sites the Manager [ was me ] has people running around after contractors to keep it all going forward . You really need to be on site a lot of the time if it is an extensive job . Trick is to find an experienced professional , careful contractor , who can actually price most of the job you want correctly , Rated people is a good way, take a little time to find the right person. Regards Peter R. ---- Beamish Const. Services.