Hi Michael, in my experience I’ve always got a sharper finish with paste the wall, and it tends to be more expensive rolls.
That said, it’s quicker, they are stronger, they won’t expand, and you can get a sharper finish.
And you don’t tend to end up with paste on the face of the paper.
So no, you obviously could paste the paper
But I can’t work out why you would want to do it.
I’ve added some extra information for you, hopefully you find it of some use.
So no paste the wall, check the type of paste needed, there are two types, ready mixed or flaked, it will say on the roll.
Obviously you’ve already made sure you have enough rolls (add an extra roll) and they are the same batch.
You have a clean board, so you can measure and cut, (if not lay some 1000 grade lining paper over the board and secure with masking tape.
You’ll be going over a lined wall, that’s already been sanded and filled, sized, start in the middle after measuring to find the point, get a spirit level and score a line in pencil to start from and work outwards.
I personally use a decent blade, Olfa and their blades are the best and the Axus Japanese shears will ensure you don’t get any “freighted” edges.
Clean as you go with a bin bag, and Make sure you have a decent cellulose sponge, washed out prior to use in a kettle (plastic pot) of clean water.
Finally in terms of hanging, depending on the paper, I always test a bit of the paper with paste, see how durable it is, some of these prints the slightest bit of paste on the face of the paper could leave a mark.
Also, when I’m hanging paper I like to work on the seam so you can’t see a join, my dad taught me to open the joint up once hung and put a bit of extra paste in there, especially if you have to move it around a bit on the wall.
And I work on the seam using the back of my fingernails.
Hope this helps.
Oh and of Course, you will make sure you have the heating off, before during and after even though its paste the wall.
Good luck, Matt.