Hiring a professional to fit your new kitchen is the single most important decision you will make in the entire renovation process. The quality of their work will determine the longevity, safety, and look of your space. Knowing the questions to ask a kitchen fitter before you hire them is the difference between a successful project and a costly nightmare.

Use this checklist to help with vetting a kitchen fitter before you agree to a contract and move forward with the work.

1. Who will actually be doing the plumbing and electrics, and what certificates will I receive?

• Why it matters: Kitchen fitting requires a multi-trade team (carpentry, plumbing, electrical). While your fitter manages the project, they rarely perform specialised tasks.
• What to look for: Demand proof of certification for all sub-contracted tradespeople. Specifically, ensure the electrician is certified (e.g., NICEIC or ELECSA registered) to issue a Part P Building Regulations Compliance Certificate for any new circuits or consumer unit work. Without this, your local authority could force you to have the work independently inspected and certified, which is costly.

2. How do you handle the worktop templating and installation process?

• Why it matters: Solid surface worktops (quartz, granite, composite) cannot be cut on site. They require a specialist templating and fabrication process that introduces a significant delay (usually 7–10 working days).
• What to look for: Ask the fitter: “Will you provide a temporary worktop and sink during the templating gap?” A professional who takes responsibility for the whole kitchen installation process will factor this in to minimise disruption and ensure you retain basic functionality (a temporary sink and tap).

3. What is your labour guarantee, and when is the final payment due?

• Why it matters: A ‘snagging list’ (minor defects like misaligned doors or poor sealing) is inevitable. You need leverage to ensure the fitter returns to fix it.
• What to look for: The kitchen fitter contract checklist should include a minimum one-year guarantee on the labour. Crucially, state in the contract that the final 10% payment will only be released once the snagging list is signed off as complete by you. Do not pay 100% until you are 100% satisfied.

4. What is and is not included in the quoted price, specifically regarding waste?

• Why it matters: The quote must be detailed. The largest hidden cost is often the removal of the old kitchen.
• What to look for: Ask: “Does this price include the cost of skip hire or waste disposal?” If they use their own vehicle to remove waste, you must request a waste transfer note to ensure the rubbish is being disposed of legally. If they just leave the old kitchen for you to deal with, you need to budget separately for a skip.

5. Can I contact your two most recent clients with a similar scope of work?

• Why it matters: While reviews are helpful, directly speaking to past clients with similar projects is the gold standard for vetting a kitchen fitter.
• What to look for: A confident and reliable fitter will happily provide these contacts. Ask the references specifically about the installer’s punctuality, site cleanliness, and how they handled unexpected problems that occurred during the project. This gives you insight into their project management skills, which are as important as their fitting skills.

Why choose kitchen fitters with Rated People?

Vetting a kitchen fitter is a crucial step that determines the safety and legality of your project. Rated People provides essential trust and transparency that simplifies this process.

• Verified certification: We help you quickly find professionals whose credentials, such as Gas Safe or NICEIC registration, have been checked, ensuring they can legally and safely perform plumbing and electrical work (like issuing that crucial Part P Compliance Certificate).
• Unbiased insight: You can read verified, honest reviews from homeowners whose projects involved similar work, giving you the real story on the installer’s punctuality and quality before you ask for a single reference.
• Project confidence: Our platform provides you with quotes from local, trusted pros who are ready to answer all the questions on your checklist.

By being prepared with these questions, you significantly increase your chances of finding the best contractors for your project.

With Rated People, you have the power to get the job done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post The five questions you must ask your kitchen fitter before signing the contract appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Before booking a fitter, you need a realistic view of the kitchen installation process. Knowing how long it takes to fit a kitchen is key to managing stress and planning your life without a functioning cooker.

While every project is different, this week-by-week kitchen renovation timeline provides a typical schedule for a medium-sized kitchen refit that does not involve structural changes.

Pre-week 1: Planning and prep

• Task: Finalise design, order materials, and clear the existing kitchen.
• The golden rule: All items—units, appliances, flooring, tiles, taps—must be on site before the fitter starts work on Day 1. One missing item can halt the entire process. Set up a temporary kitchen area (microwave, mini-fridge) in another room.

Week 1: First fix and preparation (the dirty work)

Focus: This week is loud and messy. The walls must be fully dry before any cabinets are fixed to them, or damp/mould issues will arise later.

Week 2: The core fit and templating (the delay)

The templating gap: You may have a few non-working days here while waiting for the worktops to be fabricated. Use this time to paint or decorate any areas that won’t be covered by units.

Week 3: Finishing and second fix services

Week 4: Handover

• Task: Fitter installs handles, kickboards, pelmets, and performs detailed silicone sealing. Electrician performs final certification.
• Result: A fully functional, clean, and certified kitchen, ready for your snagging list.

Why choose kitchen fitters with Rated People?

Following this strict kitchen renovation timeline requires coordinating multiple tradespeople: fitters, plumbers, electricians, and tilers. The success of your project depends entirely on the reliability and scheduling of these verified professionals.

• Vetted, multi-skilled fitters: We connect you with trusted fitters who have the experience and reviews to manage the entire installation, minimising the risk of delays during critical phases like the First Fix and Second Fix stages.
• Trust and transparency: You can view testimonials and ratings from homeowners whose projects were completed on time and within budget, allowing you to hire with confidence.
• Safety assurance: Ensure specialist work (electrics, gas) is done by professionals with the right certifications, protecting your home and long-term investment.

Understanding this kitchen renovation timeline allows you to better manage your budget and expectations – although it’s important to note, there are almost always things that can pop up and cause delays.

With Rated People, you have the power to get the job done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post The kitchen timeline: A week-by-week guide to a stress-free renovation schedule appeared first on Rated People Blog.

In the UK, many homes, especially terraced houses and flats, are challenged by tiny kitchens. Running out of worktop and cupboard space is frustrating, but a professional fitter can employ specialist tricks to completely transform your storage capacity. Small kitchen storage ideas aren’t just about using deep drawers—they’re about maximising every single cubic centimetre. Here is how professionals solve the problem of kitchen design for small spaces to ensure you are maximising kitchen storage space without compromising on workflow.

Go vertical: Walls, doors, and ceilings

The most underutilised space in any small kitchen is the wall space above the counter, or the splashback area.

• Embrace open shelving: Replace a few bulky wall cabinets with slim open shelving. This provides easy access to everyday items like plates and glassware, and visually opens up the space since it lacks solid cabinet doors. For extra utility, install hooks underneath the shelves for hanging mugs or utensils.
• Wall-mounted organisers: Ditch the countertop knife block and utensil crock.
  • Use a magnetic knife strip to store knives safely on the wall.
  • Install a rail system (like a pot rail) over the stove or sink for hanging S-hooks with utensils, kitchen towels, or even small herb plants.
  • Consider a pegboard system, which allows you to completely customise the layout for hanging pots, pans, and tools as your storage needs change.
• Don’t forget the top: The space above your wall cabinets or refrigerator is perfect for storing items you use only a few times a year, such as holiday platters or specialty appliances (e.g., a slow cooker or fondue set).

2. Master the interiors: Cabinets and drawers

Standard cabinets often leave a lot of wasted air space. Focus on internal fittings to unlock hidden capacity.

• Deep drawers over cabinets: Whenever possible, opt for deep drawers in lower units instead of standard cupboards. They allow you to pull the contents out to you, meaning you can stack pots and pans and access the item at the back without kneeling and rummaging.
• Pull-out solutions: Install a Lazy Susan or a magic corner unit in deep corner cabinets. These solutions make the back corner storage fully accessible and prevent items from getting lost forever.
• Optimise corner units: Install a Lazy Susan or a magic corner unit in deep corner cabinets. These solutions make the back corner storage fully accessible and prevent items from getting lost forever.
• Shelf risers and dividers: Maximise vertical space inside your cabinets using shelf risers or stackable wire racks for mugs, canned goods, and plates. Use vertical dividers to store cutting boards, baking sheets, and pan lids on their side, preventing messy stacks.
• Use the back of the doors: Affix slim racks or hooks to the inside of cabinet and pantry doors. These are perfect for storing spices, cling film/foil boxes, or measuring spoons.

3. Choose multi-functional and flexible furniture

In a tiny kitchen, every piece of furniture should serve at least two purposes.

• Sink and stovetop covers: Invest in a sturdy, well-fitting cutting board or cover for your sink. When the sink is not in use, this instantly creates valuable, temporary prep space. Similarly, a decorative stovetop cover can provide extra counter space when the hob is cold.
• The rolling trolley: A slim, tiered trolley (like a utility cart on wheels) provides flexible extra storage and a mobile prep station. You can wheel it to where you need it while cooking and tuck it away into an unused corner when done.
• Fold-away dining: If you need an eating area, choose a fold-down table or a drop-leaf breakfast bar that can be secured flat against the wall when not in use.

4. The golden rule: Declutter and decant

Organisation is the foundation of maximised storage. If you don’t need it, it takes up valuable real estate.

• Purge ruthlessly: Conduct a regular ‘inventory’ check. If you have duplicates (three can openers?) or haven’t used an appliance in a year, donate it. Small kitchens are not the place for “maybe someday” items.
• Decant dry goods: Transfer staples like pasta, flour, rice, and snacks from bulky, half-empty bags and boxes into matching, stackable, air-tight containers. This creates a uniform look, saves vertical space, and makes it easy to see what you have at a glance.
• Use clear and cohesive containers: When visible (on shelves or in the fridge), use clear or aesthetically pleasing matching baskets and bins. This minimizes visual clutter and creates a sense of harmony, making the small space feel less chaotic and more functional.

Why choose kitchen fitters with Rated People?

Transforming a tiny kitchen requires a fitter with specialist design knowledge and meticulous carpentry skills.

• Verified expertise: Rated People connects you with professional kitchen fitters who have the demonstrated experience and reviews for tackling complex small-space layouts, corner units, and custom storage solutions.
• Design confidence: You can find a professional who moves beyond standard installation to offer smart solutions like custom pull-outs and vertical storage, ensuring you don’t waste any space.
• Project peace of mind: You can view testimonials and ratings from homeowners whose cramped kitchens were successfully transformed, guaranteeing your small space achieves a seamless, functional finish.

By integrating these clever kitchen storage solutions into your small kitchen remodel ideas, your fitter ensures every inch of your kitchen is functional, transforming a cramped space into an efficient, clutter-free hub.

With Rated People, you can get the job done. Find a trusted, local cleaner today.

The post Maximising kitchen storage in tiny spaces appeared first on Rated People Blog.

A kitchen renovation is one of the most significant investments you can make in your home, often delivering a high return on investment in both lifestyle and property value. As we look ahead to 2026, understanding the precise cost breakdown between materials and the professional labour required is crucial for setting a realistic budget.

Based on current UK market trends and forward projections for 2026, here is the comprehensive guide to budgeting for your new kitchen, with a clear focus on the essential labour vs. materials split.

1. The total picture: Average UK kitchen costs in 2026

The final price of your new kitchen will primarily be determined by two factors: the size of the room and the quality of the materials you select. Costs are generally categorised into three tiers:

2. The essential split: Labour vs. materials (the 60/40 rule)

When estimating a new kitchen budget, a reliable rule of thumb is the 60/40 split for the overall project cost.

This split can vary significantly. If you opt for expensive, bespoke cabinetry and high-end stone worktops, the materials share will increase closer to 70%. Conversely, if your layout requires extensive electrical rewiring or moving a sink across the room, the labour share will rise.

3. Detailed breakdown of material costs (the 60-70%)

The materials are the heart of your kitchen and represent the largest portion of your budget.

4. Detailed breakdown of labour and installation costs (the 30-40%)

This section covers the cost of professionals required to install and certify your new kitchen.

A. Core kitchen fitter costs

The kitchen fitter is the central tradesperson and is responsible for the main installation of units, worktops, and door alignment.

• Average daily rate: £250 – £350 per day (can be higher in London and the South East, reaching £400+).
• Total installation cost (labour only): £2,200 – £4,600 is a common range for a basic fit. A full-service installation including coordination of all trades can cost up to £7,000 – £9,500.
• Duration: A standard renovation typically takes 2 to 4 weeks. Complex or bespoke jobs can take 6 to 8 weeks.

B. Specialist trade costs

For all but the simplest like-for-like replacement, you will need specialist, certified tradespeople.

Why choose certified tradespeople through Rated People?

Hiring for a kitchen project means coordinating multiple specialists: fitters, Gas Safe engineers, and certified electricians. The quality of this labour is the single biggest factor determining your kitchen’s final look, safety, and lifespan.

• Verified specialists: Rated People connects you with verified tradespeople—including certified Gas Safe engineers and NICEIC electricians—who possess the right credentials for complex, regulated work.
• Trust and transparency: You can view real homeowner reviews and ratings for each individual trade before you hire, ensuring you receive transparent quotes and high-calibre workmanship.
• Project peace of mind: We help you source all the necessary experts in one place, guaranteeing safety compliance and a professional finish that protects your investment.

5. The crucial x-factor: Hidden costs and contingency (10-15%)

One of the most common mistakes is not accounting for the hidden or unexpected costs that arise once the old kitchen is stripped out.

The contingency fund

Experts universally recommend setting aside 10% to 15% of your total budget as a contingency fund. For a £15,000 project, this means having £1,500 to £2,250 in reserve. In older homes where structural issues are more likely, a 20% contingency is advisable.

Common hidden expenses:

By breaking down your project into the material components and the diverse labour requirements, and by protecting yourself with a robust contingency fund, you can approach your 2026 kitchen renovation with confidence and a realistic budget.

With Rated People, you can get the job done. Find a trusted, local cleaner today.

The post New kitchen cost breakdown 2026: What to budget for labour vs. materials appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Modern kitchen fittings are designed to save time, space, and effort. Two of the most popular and useful additions are the instant boiling water tap (like a Quooker or similar brand) and the waste disposal unit (often called an Insinkerator). Both require specialist plumbing and electrical skills, elevating them beyond a standard kitchen fit. A professional fitter knows these fittings require careful planning beneath the sink unit—the most crowded cabinet in the entire kitchen.

1. The instant hot water tap: Plumbing and safety

A boiling water tap is a high-demand item, but its successful integration depends on three factors: space, power, and water quality.

• Space management: The tap requires a large, insulated tank (usually 4-11 litres) to be housed directly under the sink. Your fitter must ensure this bulky item fits alongside any other necessary components, like a waste disposal unit, without blocking the sink’s access panel.
• Plumbing requirements: The plumbing for a boiling water tap is highly specific. Most require a minimum water pressure (e.g., 2 bar) to function correctly. The fitter ensures the cold feed isolation valve is fitted correctly and that the tank has a clear overflow/vent pipe if required by the manufacturer.
• Electrical isolation: The tank is constantly heating, requiring a significant power draw. Your electrician must ensure the tank is wired to a fused spur that is easily accessible and clearly isolated via a visible switch—a crucial safety requirement for maintenance and emergencies.
• Filtration: Hard water in the UK can damage the expensive heating element. Your professional will install an inline water filter (usually part of the system) and ensure it is positioned for easy access for yearly replacement.

2. The waste disposal unit: Power and capacity

The waste disposal unit is an eco-friendly convenience that prevents food scraps from filling your bin, however this also requires a precise installation.

• Dedicated power source and switch: The unit must be wired to a fused spur and controlled by a wall switch or, ideally, an air switch (a pneumatic button on the worktop). This is safer than a traditional switch near the water. Your installer must handle the electrical work carefully, remembering this is often close to the wet cleaning zone.
• Drainage and gradient: The most complex part of fitting a waste disposal unit is the drainage. The fitter must connect the unit’s outlet to your existing drain pipe. It is vital to ensure a proper seal and a steep-enough fall/gradient in the waste pipe to allow ground-up food waste to flow away quickly and prevent backups.
• Considering Insinkerator installation cost: When budgeting, remember that the insinkerator installation cost is not just the unit price. It includes the specialist labour for both plumbing and electrical work, as well as the cost of making adjustments to the undersink cabinet, which may need to be cut to accommodate the unit’s height.

Why hire a kitchen fitter through Rated People?

Integrating advanced kitchen utilities like boiling water taps and waste disposal units requires both Gas Safe/Part P electrical awareness and expert plumbing skill. Finding a single professional who handles both safely is essential.

• Verified dual expertise: Rated People connects you with professional fitters who have the demonstrated experience and reviews for tackling these complex, dual-trade installations.
• Safety assurance: Our platform helps you find tradespeople who understand the critical need for correct electrical isolation and compliant plumbing connections for high-demand appliances.
• Peace of mind: You can view testimonials from homeowners in your area whose installations are safe, leak-free, and perfectly integrated into their kitchen design.

Whether you’re looking for advice on the best time to install a Quooker tap (ideally, before the sink is fitted) or guidance on unit placement, hiring a professional ensures these complex utilities are integrated safely, legally, and reliably.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Specialist tips for integrating a hot tap and waste disposal unit appeared first on Rated People Blog.

One of the hallmarks of a luxury, modern kitchen is the completely seamless, uncluttered look achieved by hiding appliances behind matching cabinet doors. However, integrated appliance installation is a precise art. If done incorrectly, doors won’t align, hinges will fail, and the whole kitchen will look cheap and function poorly. This job is a perfect example of why you need a professional fitter with a keen eye for detail and the necessary carpentry skills.

1. Understanding integrated hinge mechanisms

The key complexity in integrated appliances lies in the hinge mechanism that links the cabinet door to the appliance door.

• Fixed hinge (door-on-door): The appliance door is directly attached to the cabinet door via a set of fixed hinges. When the cabinet door opens, the appliance door opens with it. This is the most popular, simple, and reliable method, but requires meticulous alignment during the fitting.
• Sliding hinge (runner system): The appliance has its own hinge mechanism, and the cabinet door is attached to the appliance door via sliding runners. When the cabinet door opens, the runners allow the cabinet door to slide across the appliance door. This is often used for heavier or older appliances but can feel less secure than the fixed hinge.

Fitting an integrated fridge freezer door: The precision challenge

The most common issue a fitter faces is the integrated fridge-freezer door, particularly when matching a split door (fridge above, freezer below) to a cabinet unit.

• Split ratio and hinge points: The fitter must measure the exact split ratio required by the appliance (e.g., 70/30) and mark the corresponding hinge points on the cabinet door with laser accuracy. Incorrect marking means the doors will never align perfectly with the surrounding units.
• Ventilation is vital: Fridge-freezers generate heat and need constant ventilation. The fitter ensures that the cut-outs in the kickboard (plinth) and the top of the cabinet are clear and sized correctly. Ignoring these ventilation gaps (often 50mm to 100mm) traps heat, forces the appliance compressor to work harder, and drastically reduces the appliance’s lifespan.
• Final alignment: After securing the appliance and fitting the door, the fitter meticulously adjusts the hinge screws until the gap around the cabinet door is perfectly uniform—typically 2-3mm—matching every other door in the kitchen.

Dishwashers and utility connections

When tackling dishwasher installation problems, the fitter must also consider plumbing and level.

• Levelling and tilt: Dishwashers must be perfectly level to drain correctly. The fitter uses a spirit level and adjusts the screw-feet to ensure no water remains in the sump.
• Utility routing: Before pushing the unit into its final home, the fitter ensures all water inlet/outlet pipes and electrical cables are routed through the correct service cut-outs at the back of the cabinet, avoiding kinks or pressure points that could lead to leaks or electrical faults over time.

Why hire a kitchen fitter with Rated People?

Integrated appliance fitting is a specialist job where the margin for error is zero. You need confidence that your fitter possesses carpentry, plumbing, and electrical awareness.

• Verified skills: Rated People connects you with professional fitters who have the demonstrated experience and reviews for integrated kitchens.
• Peace of mind: You reduce the risk of structural damage, ensure flawless aesthetic alignment, and guarantee proper ventilation—all vital for preserving the appliance warranty and your home insurance.
• Trusted reviews: You can view testimonials from homeowners whose appliance doors are now perfectly aligned, ensuring your new kitchen achieves that expensive, seamless look.

Trusting a professional to handle these details guarantees the seamless, high-quality finish you expect from a new kitchen.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post The expert’s guide to seamless fridge, freezer, and dishwasher installation appeared first on Rated People Blog.

The kitchen has become the central tech hub of the modern home. From voice-activated speakers to tablet recipe books, ensuring your space is correctly powered and lit requires specialist knowledge from a qualified professional. Installing smart kitchen lighting and integrated kitchen charging points is not a DIY job—it’s electrical work governed by safety regulations.

1. Smart lighting: Beyond the ceiling rose

Modern kitchen lighting design is all about layers—ambient, LED task lighting, and accent lighting. Smart technology allows you to control colour, dimming, and scheduling from an app or voice command.

A professional will map out your electrical wiring to integrate:

• Task lighting: LED strip lighting under cabinets is crucial. The fitter ensures the wiring is completely concealed and connected to a hidden transformer unit, often placed within a ceiling void or at the top of a cabinet.
• Ambient lighting: Recessed ceiling spotlights connected to a smart dimmer system. Your electrician should advise on whether a simple Wi-Fi system (like those controlled via your router) or a more reliable mesh network system (like Zigbee or Z-Wave) is best for your smart home kitchen.
• Accent lighting: Kickboard or island lighting that creates atmosphere. This is often low-voltage (Extra-Low Voltage or ELV) which requires specialist drivers, installed safely away from heat and moisture.

Do I need an electrician for kitchen lighting?

Yes, you absolutely do. While replacing a simple bulb is safe, installing new circuits, new high-power points (like an induction hob), or any modifications to the fixed wiring requires a qualified electrician. They ensure the installation adheres to UK electrical safety standards, specifically Part P of the Building Regulations.

If your project involves running a new circuit (e.g., for a dedicated cooker or new ring main), replacing the consumer unit (fuse box), or wiring an extension, this is notifiable work. Your electrician must be certified (e.g., NICEIC or ELECSA registered) to self-certify the work, saving you the hassle of dealing with local Building Control yourself.

2. Integrated power and charging points

The aesthetic of a smart home kitchen demands minimal visible clutter. This has led to innovative solutions for power access.

• Integrated USB sockets: These are now standard. The electrician kitchen fitting specialist can replace existing sockets with units that include high-speed USB-A and USB-C ports, perfect for charging devices on the breakfast bar.
• Pop-up/retractable sockets: Ideal for kitchen islands where you need power but don’t want permanent wall sockets. These must be correctly wired into the main circuit safely, often requiring specialist wiring beneath the floor or through cabinet voids, and should be IP-rated (water splash protected).
• Appliance circuits: Appliances over 3kW, such as ovens, induction hobs, and instantaneous water heaters, need dedicated circuits. The electrician must install these to handle the high current draw, protecting your home from fire risk.

Why choose certified fitters through Rated People?

Integrating smart lighting and power is a complex job that requires both the design eye of a fitter and the safety certification of an electrician. Finding reliable, qualified tradespeople who can handle both seamlessly is where Rated People provides you with confidence.

We connect you with verified professionals who:

• Are certified and vetted: We check their qualifications (like NICEIC registration) to ensure they comply with vital Part P Building Regulations.
• Offer dual expertise: You can find professionals with both fitting and electrical skills, ensuring the installation is clean, functional, and completely safe.
• Prioritise safety: They understand the demands of dedicated appliance circuits and high-load zones, protecting your smart home investment and preventing hazards.

By combining the skills of a kitchen fitter and a certified electrician, you get a clean, functional, and completely safe smart home kitchen, where technology is integrated seamlessly into the design.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Installing smart lighting and integrated charging in modern kitchens appeared first on Rated People Blog.

The most popular kitchen renovations today involve creating an open-plan living and dining space. While knocking down a wall might seem straightforward, it can involve a major structural risk. Unlike a standard refit, removing a kitchen wall isn’t just labour; it includes professional assessment, compliance, and certification.

Finding the right professional is the first critical step, and that’s where Rated People provides unparalleled confidence. Our platform connects you with verified, high-calibre kitchen fitters in your local area who are reviewed by real homeowners. By hiring a trusted professional through us, you ensure your project prioritises expertise, quality, and your long-term peace of mind.

A responsible kitchen fitter will know their limits and will flag the need for a structural engineer and building control before the sledgehammer comes out. Here is when and why these experts must be involved.

The fundamental question: Load-bearing vs. non-load-bearing

The primary reason to call a structural engineer is to determine if a wall is load bearing. A load-bearing wall supports the structure above it (e.g., floor joists, roof trusses). Removing it without installing adequate support will cause severe structural damage.

How to spot the difference:

Your fitter must defer to an engineer if your plans involve any of the following:

• Removing or moving a wall in a two-storey or higher property.
• Modifying external walls for new doors, large bi-fold windows, or part of a kitchen extension.
• Any work on a chimney breast or its supporting stack.

The process: Getting a steel beam installed and certified

If the answer to “is my kitchen wall load bearing” is yes, your project moves from a simple kitchen refit to a building project.

• Structural engineer: They visit the property, perform calculations, and design the necessary support (the size and type of steel beam needed). This blueprint is critical for the Building Control application.
• Building control: Your local authority’s building control team must approve the plans in advance. They will inspect the work when the hole is first made and again after the steel beam installation is complete and the beam is in place, ensuring compliance with building regulations.
• The fitter/builder: The professional team handles the safe demolition, installation of the beam, and critical fire-stopping elements (known as encasing the beam).

The legal and financial imperatives

While the extra fees for an engineer and building control add to your removing kitchen wall cost, they are non-negotiable insurance for your property:

• Safety & insurance: They guarantee your house is structurally sound. Your home insurance policy will be invalid if uncertified structural work leads to a later failure.
• Property saleability: When you sell your home, the buyer’s solicitor will demand a Building Control Completion Certificate for any structural work. Without this, your property’s value is drastically reduced, and you may face issues obtaining a mortgage.
• The party wall act: If the wall you are removing is shared with a neighbour (e.g., in a terraced house), the Party Wall Act may apply. Your fitter should flag this, as it requires you to serve notice to your neighbour, potentially incurring surveyor fees—another crucial cost to budget for.

When working with a professional fitter, listen to their advice regarding structural integrity—it demonstrates they are competent and prioritising the safety and legality of your home.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post When should your kitchen fitter call in a structural engineer? appeared first on Rated People Blog.

A kitchen isn’t just a collection of cabinets; it’s a dynamic workspace. If your layout is wrong, your kitchen will feel frustrating and inefficient, no matter how expensive the units are. When you hire a professional kitchen fitter, you’re not just paying for assembly—you’re paying for expertise in kitchen workflow design. 

Finding a reliable professional is the first critical step, and that’s where Rated People can help you connect with verified, high-calibre kitchen fitters in your local area.

A skilled fitter or designer moves beyond the basic kitchen triangle rule (the classic setup between the sink, cooker, and fridge) to create an efficient kitchen design based on modern living and cooking styles.

Beyond the triangle: Introducing kitchen zoning

Modern kitchens often serve multiple functions (cooking, eating, socialising, working), making the simple triangle inadequate. Professional fitters use kitchen zoning principles to divide the space into functional areas, minimising movement and maximising efficiency:

• The prep zone (the heart): This area needs the largest run of continuous worktop space (ideally 90cm to 120cm). It should be positioned strategically between the sink and the hob. Optimising a small kitchen layout often means consolidating this zone, perhaps using an integrated chopping board or pull-out surface.
• The cooking zone: Includes the hob, oven, microwave, and extractor fan. It requires heat-resistant surfaces and must be safely located near an external wall for proper ventilation.
• The cleaning zone: Focused around the sink, dishwasher, and waste bins. This zone requires specialist kitchen plumbing installation UK services for integrated dishwashers and waste disposal units. Crucially, the dishwasher must be adjacent to the sink to avoid constant dripping onto the floor.
• The storage zone: Dedicated to the fridge/freezer and non-perishables (larder, drawers). The fitter ensures kitchen appliance placement here allows for easy access without interrupting the core cooking process.

The fitter’s blueprint for workflow efficiency

Before a single unit is fitted, your professional should look at your habits and map the flow of movement. This means answering: Where do you unload groceries? Where do you take dirty plates?

Critical design measurements and principles:

• The landing pad rule: There must always be a minimum of 40cm of worktop space next to (or directly opposite) the oven/hob and the fridge. This is your “landing pad” for hot dishes and groceries. Without it, you are forced to walk further, increasing the risk of accidents.
• Drawers over cupboards: For the prep zone and cooking zone, fitters prioritise deep, heavy-duty drawers over traditional cupboards. This makes accessing pots, pans, and ingredients easier and faster, drastically improving the flow and reducing search time.
• Clear circulation: In U-shaped or galley layouts, a minimum width of 120cm should be maintained between opposing cabinets to ensure two people can pass and work comfortably without blocking appliances. For a single cook, 100cm is the absolute minimum.
• The larder location: If possible, the pantry/larder should be located close to the fridge/freezer in the storage zone. This consolidates all food-retrieval tasks into one area, meaning less wandering through the workspace when preparing a meal.

By applying these precise principles, your fitter transforms a basic design into a small kitchen or a sprawling open-plan space that works perfectly for your lifestyle, proving the immense value of professional installation and design expertise.

Why hire your kitchen fitter through Rated People?

When investing in a kitchen, quality labour is non-negotiable. We help you find trusted kitchen fitters who guarantee meticulous work and peace of mind.

• Verified expertise: We connect you with professional fitters who have the demonstrated experience and strong reviews for creating complex, efficient kitchen designs and seamless installations.
• Full service vetting: Your fitter understands the need for specialist trades (like certified electricians or Gas Safe engineers) for complex zones, ensuring your whole project is safe and compliant.
• Trust and transparency: You can view testimonials and ratings from local homeowners whose kitchens were transformed, giving you confidence before you even post the job.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post How professional fitters map the most efficient kitchen workflow appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Moving is stressful enough without the added worry of losing your deposit over a cleaning technicality. Landlords and inventory clerks demand a professional standard of cleanliness—and if your property doesn’t meet it, deductions will be made.

The key to a stress-free move and a successful return of your funds is engaging in a thorough deep clean. This guide provides a simple roadmap to ensure you pass your final inventory check.

1. Know the standard: From clean to professional

A final inspection compares the property’s condition to the check-in inventory. If the original report stated the property was professionally cleaned (or you signed a clause requiring it), a DIY effort won’t be enough.

To pass the final inventory inspection, you must aim for a truly deep clean. This includes areas often forgotten:

• High-level dusting: Cleaning cobwebs and dust from cornices, ceiling light fittings, and high shelves.
• Appliances: Fully cleaning the inside of the dishwasher, washing machine seals, and behind the fridge.
• Fixtures: Wiping all light switches, sockets, and the top edge of radiators.

2. Prioritise specialist trouble spots

Certain areas are common sticking points that cause landlords to withhold funds. These are often the most difficult and unpleasant tasks, making them perfect reasons to hire a professional.

• The oven: The oven and extractor fan are the top reasons for a cleaning deduction. Specialists have the dipping tanks and industrial chemicals needed to remove baked-on carbon that is impossible to shift with retail cleaners.
• The bathroom: Limescale, mould, and soap scum must be completely removed from shower screens, tiles, and taps. Descaling is meticulous work that requires attention to detail.
• Carpets: If your carpets were professionally cleaned before you moved in, a professional clean is usually required on exit, or the cost will be deducted from your deposit.

3. The value of post-tenancy cleaning for tenants

If you’re unsure about the required standard or simply lack the time, hiring a dedicated service is the most stress-free and cost-effective solution. A proper deep cleaning agency will offer a guarantee, meaning if the inventory clerk flags any issues within a short period, the company will return to fix them free of charge.

When hiring, use Rated People to find reviewed professionals, ensuring you get the high standard of cleaning required to protect your deposit.

4. Check-out cleaning costs

The check-out cleaning service cost is always a fraction of the full deposit, making it a sound financial investment compared to the risk of losing hundreds of pounds. When enquiring about deep cleaning services, expect the quote to be based on the size of the property, its location, and whether specialist tasks are included:

Note: Prices in London and the South East may be 15–30% higher than the national average.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local cleaner today.

The post Deep cleaning for tenants: A stress-free guide to passing your final inventory inspection appeared first on Rated People Blog.

When your property sustains severe damage from fire or flood, the immediate aftermath can be overwhelming. A specialised form of recovery is needed: emergency deep cleaning and sanitisation. This work goes far beyond standard cleaning, focusing on mitigating further damage, preventing mould, and preparing the property for repair.

Knowing precisely when to call professional cleanup and building services—and whom to call—is the first critical step toward recovery.

1. Fire damage: More than just soot removal

A house fire is devastating, but the lingering effects of smoke and soot can continue to cause harm long after the flames are out. The residue from burning materials is corrosive and highly toxic.

When dealing with a fire, you need an emergency deep-cleaning team immediately for three key reasons:

• Soot mitigation: Soot particles are acidic and quickly etch into materials. These residues must be removed within hours to prevent permanent damage to fixtures and surfaces.
• Odour removal: Smoke penetrates deep into porous materials and ventilation systems. Cleaning professionals use industrial-grade equipment to permanently neutralise deep-set smoke odours, which regular cleaning cannot achieve.
• Debris clearance: They manage the initial, unsafe task of clearing fire-damaged materials and debris, making way for structural builders to begin the renovation work.

2. Flood and water damage: The race against mould

Whether caused by a burst pipe, a leaking appliance, or a severe storm, water damage is a race against the clock. Mould can begin to grow in saturated materials within 24 to 48 hours, making immediate intervention essential.

If you have significant water ingress, search immediately for an emergency flood cleanup specialist. The service should focus on:

• Water extraction: Rapid removal of standing water using commercial pumps and wet vacuums.
• Drying and dehumidification: Placement of industrial-grade air movers and dehumidifiers to thoroughly dry the structure. This is vital for preventing long-term structural issues and mould growth.
• Sanitisation: Treating the area with professional-grade antimicrobial agents, especially if the water was unsanitary (e.g., sewage backup).

Why use Rated People for post-disaster recovery

In these stressful and urgent situations, finding a reliable contractor is critical. You need someone who can quickly assess the damage and provide the necessary initial cleanup to prevent secondary problems like corrosion and mould before the full restoration begins.

The professionals on Rated People are ideally suited to manage the key post-disaster tasks:

• Cleaning specialists handle the essential, immediate tasks of water extraction, drying, sanitisation, and soot removal.
• Builders and refurbishment contractors are listed as specialists in “Fire and Flood Renovation” and can step in quickly to manage the structural repairs and refurbishment once the property is safe and dry.

Rated People is invaluable for finding builders and cleaning specialists who are reviewed, local, and experienced in managing fire and flood cleanup projects, ensuring you get transparent quotes and trustworthy service without delay.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Fire and flood: When to call an emergency cleanup team appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Exterior home cleaning is often reactive—we clean the gutters when they overflow, and we wash the windows when we can no longer see out. However, adopting a proactive, seasonal approach to maintenance can save you money, prevent damage, and ensure your home always looks its best.

1. Gutters: The winter prevention clean

Gutters are the most vital part of exterior maintenance, protecting your roofline, walls, and foundation from water damage. Scheduling the work strategically is key.

When to schedule the work:

Late autumn (October/November) and early spring (March).

The best time for gutter cleaning is right after the leaves have fallen, typically in late autumn. This ensures they are clear before the heavy rains, ice, and strong winds of winter hit. A secondary clean in early spring is beneficial to remove any grit or debris that collected over the winter months before spring showers begin.

Hiring a gutter cleaning service not only ensures the blockage is cleared but also allows a professional to check for minor damage, loose joints, or necessary repairs before they become serious leaks.

For jobs that involve working at height, always use a reliable, insured professional. Rated People helps you to find local tradespeople with verified reviews, ensuring a safe and effective service.

2. Driveways and patios: The spring restoration clean

Hard surfaces like driveways and patios collect algae, moss, and grime over the winter, making them slippery and dull. A deep clean in spring revitalises your curb appeal for the sunnier months.

When to schedule the work:

Late spring (April/May).

Late spring is the ideal time, as the warmer, drier weather allows the surface to dry quickly, which is especially crucial for driveways. Cleaning in late spring allows time for:

• Moss and algae treatment: Applying a moss inhibitor, which works best when the weather is warming up.
• Re-sanding/sealing: Giving you time to re-sand block paving or apply a fresh sealant (if necessary) to protect against summer traffic and UV damage.

3. Windows: Window cleaning frequency for optimal results

Windows are constantly exposed to dust, pollen, bird droppings, and rain, which can lead to mineral staining if left too long.

When to schedule the work:

Monthly, bi-monthly, or quarterly.

There is no definitive window cleaning frequency for optimal results as it depends on your location. Houses near busy roads or the sea will require more frequent cleaning (monthly to bi-monthly) than homes in quiet, rural areas (quarterly).

• Quarterly clean (four times a year): Recommended minimum for maintaining clarity and preventing mineral build-up.
• Spring and autumn: Always ensure a thorough clean in spring to remove winter grit and in autumn to wash off any last-of-the-season pollen.

Property maintenance summary

By following this property maintenance checklist, you can protect the structural integrity and aesthetic appeal of your home year-round:

• Late autumn: Gutter clean.
• Late spring: Driveway/patio clean.
• Quarterly minimum: Window clean.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post When to schedule your window, gutter, and driveway cleans for optimal results appeared first on Rated People Blog.

As a landlord, ensuring a quick turnaround between tenancies is vital for minimising void periods and maximising returns. A crucial, yet often overlooked, part of this process is the end-of-tenancy clean. When done professionally, a cleaning service can be a powerful tool to meet all legal requirements, streamline the inventory check, and ultimately re-let your property.

Why a specialist service is required

Tenants are usually required to leave the property in the same state of cleanliness as when they moved in. However, the standard of a tenant’s DIY clean rarely meets the meticulous requirements of a professional inventory clerk.

Hiring a dedicated move out cleaning service achieves a higher standard and delivers key benefits:

• Speed and efficiency: Professionals can deep clean an entire property in a fraction of the time, minimising your void period.
• Specialist equipment: They use industrial-grade equipment (like high-powered steam cleaners and professional oven cleaning tools) that tenants simply don’t possess.
• Guarantee: Many services offer a guarantee that if the inventory clerk finds an issue, they will return to rectify it for free.

Finding a reliable, high-quality cleaning team is crucial. Using a platform like Rated People means you can hire local professionals with verified reviews, giving you the assurance that they understand the high standards required by inventory clerks and letting agencies.

The landlord’s essential checklist for a guaranteed clean

Your end of tenancy cleaning landlord checklist should be exhaustive. A reliable cleaning service will cover these areas to the standard needed to pass any professional inspection:

• Kitchen: Full degreasing of walls and tiles; deep cleaning inside and outside all cupboards and drawers; descaling of sinks and taps; and a professional oven clean (often charged separately, but essential).
• Bathrooms: Complete sanitisation and descaling of all surfaces, including shower screens, tiles, sinks, and toilets; polishing mirrors and chrome fittings.
• General areas (lounge, bedrooms, hallways): Vacuuming and steam cleaning carpets (where required); cleaning all internal windows and frames; wiping down all skirting boards, door frames, and internal doors; cleaning all light fittings and switches.
• External: Balcony sweeps, patio cleaning, and ensuring any rubbish is removed from the premises.

Addressing the deposit dispute: Cleaning evidence

One of the most common causes of tenant/landlord disagreements is the cleanliness standard upon moving out. Protecting yourself with solid cleaning evidence is paramount.

By using a professional service, you create an irrefutable paper trail:

• Invoice and receipt: The cleaning company’s invoice confirms the date and scope of the deep clean, proving the property was restored to a professional standard.
• Detailed report: Many professional services provide a detailed breakdown of the work completed, which directly counters a tenant’s claim that they “cleaned it themselves.”
• Inventory link: The standard set by the professional end of tenancy clean should directly correspond to the check-in inventory report, creating an easy comparison for the deposit scheme adjudicator.

Cost of a professional end of tenancy clean

The cost of a professional end of tenancy clean will vary depending on the size of the property (number of bedrooms/bathrooms) and location. While you may save money with a non-specialist, the cost of a cleaning service is a fraction of the potential expense incurred through deposit disputes, lost rent during void periods, or the damage caused by mould and pests resulting from a substandard clean. Always get a fixed quote for a full, guaranteed service.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post End-of-tenancy cleaning: The landlords’ checklist to guarantee a property is re-let ready appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Natural stone worktops—granite, marble, and slate—add undeniable beauty and luxury to any kitchen. However, their porous nature makes them vulnerable to staining, etching, and dulling. Homeowners often panic when a red wine spill or a lemon slice leaves a mark.

The secret to maintaining these surfaces isn’t constant scrubbing; it’s proper cleaning, routine maintenance, and professional sealing. Here are the trade secrets for worktop cleaning and sealing that specialists use to keep stone surfaces in pristine condition.

The fundamental rule: How to clean natural stone worktops

The biggest mistake homeowners make is using everyday kitchen cleaners. Products containing vinegar, lemon juice, or ammonia are acidic and can etch (chemically burn) the surface of sensitive stones like marble, leaving a dull, permanent mark.

To understand how to clean natural stone worktops correctly, follow these rules:

• Use pH-neutral cleaners: Only use cleaners specifically labelled as stone cleaners, or a simple solution of mild soap and water.
• Immediate cleanup: Wipe up spills, especially acidic ones like juice or wine, immediately. The longer they sit, the deeper the stain will penetrate.
• Avoid abrasives: Never use abrasive pads, scouring powder, or steel wool, as these will scratch the surface and wear down the protective sealant.

Protecting your investment: Why you need a sealing service

Granite, marble, and slate are porous, meaning they absorb liquids. Sealing fills these microscopic pores, creating a barrier that prevents stains from sinking in. Even granite, which is dense, needs re-sealing every one to three years.

You should hire a professional for a granite worktop sealing service to ensure the job is done properly with commercial-grade impregnators. Attempting to seal your stone incorrectly can leave a hazy residue that is difficult to remove.

It is essential to use a trustworthy professional for this delicate work. Rated People’s cleaners are reviewed by homeowners just like you, giving you confidence that your stone worktop will be protected correctly, not damaged.

Sealing slate and marble: Expert trade tips

Different stones require different approaches. Professionals have specific sealing slate floor tiles trade tips and techniques for marble:

• Marble: Marble is highly susceptible to etching. A specialist will often recommend a penetrating sealer, which soaks into the stone, rather than a topical sealer, which just sits on the surface.
• Slate: Slate is naturally very absorbent. For a high-shine finish, a sealer with an enhancing formula may be chosen to deepen the colour. For floors, a hard-wearing sealer is crucial to resist abrasion.

Choosing the product

The best stone sealer for kitchen countertops is one that is a high-quality, professional-grade product that offers a long lifespan and won’t discolour the stone. Your contractor will choose the right type based on the stone and its location.

Restoration: When damage occurs

If your stone is badly stained, scratched, or etched, you may need a restoration service. This is a job that requires specialised machinery, such as diamond-impregnated polishing pads, to remove a thin layer of stone and restore the original finish.

For this type of work, costs are generally higher than routine cleaning and sealing. Restoration work may involve:

• Honing: Removing deep scratches and marks.
• Polishing: Buffing the stone to the desired level of shine.
• Filing: Repairing chips in the edge of the worktop.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Trade secrets for cleaning and sealing granite, marble, and slate worktops appeared first on Rated People Blog.

The builders have packed up, the new kitchen is installed, and the final coat of paint is dry. Now comes the biggest challenge: construction dust. This isn’t just regular dirt; it’s a fine, insidious powder that settles everywhere, from light fixtures to inside cupboards. For a truly successful home handover, you need professional dust removal after building work.

Why professional dust removal is necessary

Construction dust contains fine particles of drywall, concrete, silica, and wood that can be hazardous if not removed completely. A regular vacuum cleaner or a quick wipe-down won’t capture these microscopic particles—it will just redistribute them into the air and onto surfaces. This is why professionals are necessary.

The systematic approach to post-construction cleaning

Professional cleaning is not a single pass; it is a meticulous, multi-stage process designed to eliminate dust from top to bottom. This ensures that when the final clean is done, the dust doesn’t reappear a few days later.

1. High-level dusting and initial debris removal The first step focuses on removing the heavy layer of dust and any remaining debris.
   • Vacuuming: Specialists use commercial-grade HEPA-filtered vacuums to safely capture fine dust without exhausting it back into the air. This is crucial for knowing how to remove fine construction dust effectively.
   • Wiping down: Every high surface—including light fixtures, ceiling fans, and extractor fan covers—is damp-wiped, not just dusted.
2. Detailed surface cleaning Once the loose dust is gone, the detailed work begins on surfaces that require careful treatment.
   • Windows and glass: Removing paint splatters, sealant residue, and the foggy film left by dust is a specialist skill. Professionals use non-scratch blades and specific solutions to ensure a streak-free finish.
   • Cabinetry: Cupboards and drawers must be meticulously cleaned inside and out, as dust often settles inside the sliding mechanisms and runners.
   • Hard floors: Tiled and wooden floors require specialised cleaning agents to cut through grout haze and plaster residue left by the builders.
3. The final filter and polish The last stage is a meticulous final check and polish, adhering to every point on the cleaning checklist.
   • Air scrubbing: Some specialists use commercial air movers or scrubbers to capture lingering airborne dust before the final polish.
   • Touch points: All power outlets, door handles, light switches, and skirting boards are wiped down for the final time.

Your essential after builders cleaning checklist

When hiring a renovation cleanup service, use this checklist to ensure all essential areas are covered:

• Removal of all stickers and protective plastic from appliances, windows, and fixtures.
• Complete internal cleaning of all cupboards, drawers, and wardrobes.
• Sanitisation of all kitchen and bathroom fixtures (sinks, toilets, tubs).
• Cleaning of window frames, sills, and internal glass.
• Wiping down and cleaning of all walls and ceilings to remove dust and smudges.
• Final vacuuming and mopping of all floors with appropriate products for the surface type.

Post-renovation cleanup pricing

Pricing is generally given as a fixed quote after a consultation, as it depends entirely on the size of the area, the extent of the dust, and the depth of the cleaning required (i.e., whether they need to clean inside ductwork or just surfaces).

While hiring a professional is an added cost, it saves you hours of frustrating work and ensures the dust is gone permanently, protecting your health and making your handover complete.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Essential skills for removing construction dust after renovation appeared first on Rated People Blog.

When your carpets need a deep clean, the sheer number of cleaning methods can be confusing. The central dilemma for many homeowners comes down to two major approaches: steam cleaning vs. chemical cleaning carpets. While both methods can lift dirt and refresh your flooring, they operate on fundamentally different principles, affecting cost, drying time, and effectiveness.

This guide will help you understand the two core approaches used by professionals and answer the ultimate question: is steam cleaning better than chemical cleaning?

Method 1: The steam/water approach (hot water extraction)

The term “steam cleaning” is widely used, but professionals often refer to this process as hot water extraction (HWE). It is widely considered one of the most effective and deep-reaching methods available.

How it works

HWE involves injecting a mixture of hot water and a mild cleaning solution deep into the carpet fibres at high pressure. Almost immediately, a powerful vacuum extracts the dirty water and dissolved soil.

Hot water extraction: pros & cons

• Deep clean: Flushes out deep-seated dirt, allergens, and bacteria.
• Eco-friendly: Uses significantly fewer harsh chemicals than other methods, making it ideal for those seeking eco-friendly carpet cleaning services.
• Residue-free: Leaves behind minimal chemical residue, reducing the risk of “re-soiling“.
• Con: Long drying time (typically 4–12 hours, depending on ventilation).
• Con: Can over-wet (requires a skilled operator to avoid over-saturating the carpet, which can lead to mould).

Method 2: Chemical cleaning (encapsulation and dry cleaning)

Chemical methods rely less on water and more on chemistry to break down and lift dirt. These include encapsulation and often fall under the category of “dry cleaning” when comparing dry steam cleaning vs. hot water extraction.

How it works

• Encapsulation: A chemical polymer solution is applied to the carpet. As the chemical dries, it crystallises and encapsulates the dirt particles. This dried residue is then vacuumed up, leaving the carpet clean.
• Dry cleaning: A low-moisture chemical foam or compound is worked into the carpet using a rotating machine. The chemical attracts the dirt, and the residue is vacuumed away almost immediately.

Chemical cleaning: pros & cons

• Fast drying: Often ready to walk on in 1–2 hours, making it ideal for commercial spaces.
• Water safe: Minimal use of water is safe for delicate fabrics and water-sensitive carpets.
• Con: Surface Clean (generally does not clean as deeply as HWE; it mainly addresses the top fibres).
• Con: Chemical Residue (can leave behind chemical residue if not thoroughly vacuumed, potentially attracting new dirt).

Choosing your method: Carpet cleaning methods compared

When deciding which of the various carpet cleaning methods compared are right for your home, consider these factors:

• Level of Soiling: For heavily soiled, matted, or old carpets, hot water extraction (steam) is superior for deep sanitisation.
• Drying Time: If you need a room back in use immediately, a chemical (dry) cleaning method is preferred.
• Health Concerns: If you need a deep, sanitising clean and are concerned about allergens, HWE is typically better as it removes more allergens and leaves minimal chemicals behind.

In most residential scenarios, professional hot water extraction is the recommended standard for the deepest, most hygienic clean, ensuring effective removal of dirt, grease, and allergens.

Getting professional carpet cleaning prices UK

Choosing a professional with Rated People ensures not only a better result but also adherence to industry best practices. When researching professional carpet cleaning prices UK, keep in mind that cost usually depends on:

• The total square footage of the area.
• The type of carpet (wool is more expensive than synthetic).
• The level of soiling (heavy stains may incur extra charges).
• Your location (prices in London are generally higher).

If a quote seems significantly cheaper than others, verify their method—they may be using low-power, DIY-style machines rather than commercial-grade HWE equipment.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post The steam cleaning vs. chemical debate appeared first on Rated People Blog.

If you live in a hard water area, you know the struggle: a cloudy film on your shower glass, crusty taps, and stubborn rings in your toilet. This is limescale, a tough deposit of calcium and magnesium that makes your bathroom look permanently unclean. While many DIY solutions exist, tackling severe limescale often requires industrial-strength techniques and specialist knowledge that only a professional cleaner or trade expert can provide.

The problem: Hard water build up

Limescale doesn’t just look bad; it can compromise the efficiency and lifespan of your fixtures. Left untreated, it can build up inside showerheads, taps, and toilets, reducing water flow and causing permanent damage. When the problem is widespread, you need a specialist with the right equipment.

The areas most commonly affected by scale that require professional intervention are:

• Shower screens: The constant mix of heat and drying water creates a resilient, cloudy layer.
• Taps and showerheads: Scale clogs the nozzles, drastically reducing performance.
• Toilets: Hard deposits form yellow or brown rings that household cleaners cannot dissolve.
• Tiles and grout: Limescale adheres strongly to porous grout lines, requiring targeted acidic cleaning.

Expert techniques for removing baked-on limescale

Professionals rely on a methodical approach and specialised products that are typically unavailable to the public. They know that the right chemical agent for one surface may damage another (e.g., acid on marble), making surface identification crucial.

1. Identifying the right agent

Instead of general limescale remover for bathrooms, professionals use specific acidic solutions formulated for strength and safety:

• Phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid (in diluted forms) are used by trained cleaners for heavy deposits. They are essential for cleaning baked-on limescale from toilets and removing thick scale from porcelain.
• Sulphamic acid or gentler formulas are often used for general tile and grout cleaning to lift mineral deposits without damaging the surface glaze.

2. Targeted application and dwell time

The key to success is giving the descaling agent enough time to break down the minerals without letting it dry.

• Toilets: The water is often lowered and the chemical left to soak, focusing on the baked-on ring.
• Taps: Taps may be dismantled where possible, or small components soaked directly in a mild acid bath.
• Shower screens: The cleaner applies a strong, specific product to the glass, letting it dwell before using a non-scratch tool to scrape or gently scrub the dissolved residue away.

Achieving crystal clear shower glass

For many homeowners, the shower screen is the most frustrating element. Finding the best descaler is the first step, but the technique is equally important.

Professional secrets for clear glass include:

• Safety first: Ensuring the area is ventilated and that adjacent surfaces (like natural stone) are protected from chemical splash.
• Agitation: Using specialised, fine abrasive pads (like melamine or steel wool graded safe for glass) after the descaler has softened the scale.
• Rinse and seal: Thoroughly rinsing the surface to neutralise the acid, followed by the application of a professional glass sealant or water repellent. This protective layer makes maintenance easier and prevents future build-up.

Hire a specialist to restore your bathroom

If you have spent hours scrubbing with little success, it’s time to call in the experts to restore your fixtures and make your bathroom look new again.

Finding the right cleaner means finding someone who:

• Understands chemical safety and material science.
• Uses specialist, commercial-grade equipment.
• Can identify and resolve the persistent, underlying cause of the scale.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post How cleaners tackle severe limescale in bathrooms appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Black mould is more than just an unsightly blemish on your walls or ceilings; it’s a genuine health hazard that signals a serious moisture problem within your home. Many homeowners and tenants attempt to tackle the problem with household cleaners, but this often fails to address the root cause—or the thousands of microscopic spores.

If you’re facing a recurring or widespread black mould problem, it’s time to call in the experts. Here is your essential guide to understanding the professional approach to eradication and why expert help is crucial.

The hidden dangers: recognising toxic mould in house symptoms

The term “black mould” often refers to Stachybotrys chartarum, which can produce mycotoxins and pose serious risks, particularly to those with existing respiratory conditions, the elderly, and young children.

Ignoring the problem can lead to a range of health problems including:

• Persistent coughs and wheezing.
• Throat irritation and running eyes.
• Skin rashes.
• Chronic fatigue and headaches.
• Exacerbation of asthma or allergic reactions.

If you suspect you have mould, especially in concealed areas like behind drywall or under flooring, isolating the area and seeking professional help is the safest course of action.

Why diy removal fails to provide a permanent fix

Household cleaners like bleach are surface treatments. They might lighten the mould stain, but they do not penetrate porous materials like plasterboard, wood, or grout deep enough to kill the microscopic hyphae (the “roots”) or the surrounding spores.

For a true solution, you need cleaning specialists who address three key areas:

1. Source: Identifying and fixing the moisture problem (leaky pipe, rising damp, or extreme condensation).
2. Eradication: Using industrial-grade biocides and physical removal techniques.
3. Spore Control: Neutralising airborne Mould Spore Eradication to prevent immediate regrowth.

The specialist process: black mould remediation services

A qualified mould removal specialist follows stringent, multi-step protocols to ensure the safety of your property and its occupants.

1. Initial assessment and moisture identification The specialist will use thermal cameras and moisture meters to pinpoint the exact source of water ingress or dampness. This step is non-negotiable, as you cannot eradicate the mould forever without first eliminating the source of moisture.
2. Containment To prevent the spread of spores to clean areas of your property, the affected zone is sealed off using plastic sheeting and negative air pressure machines. This is a critical step in adhering to professional safety benchmarks.
3. Physical removal and treatment

• Porous materials: Any material that has been structurally damaged or saturated with mould (like plasterboard, insulation, or carpet) is carefully removed and double-bagged for safe disposal.
• Non-porous surfaces: Hard, non-porous surfaces (like glass or tile) are treated with EPA-registered, specialist cleaning agents, then scrubbed and dried completely.

4. Air filtration and clearance Specialist contractors use commercial-grade HEPA air scrubbers to filter out millions of airborne spores. Upon completion, a clearance test may be conducted by an independent assessor to ensure air quality meets safety standards, often referencing the IICRC Mould Removal Standards (The Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification). These standards ensure the cleaning process is thorough, effective, and safe.

Cost of specialist mould cleaning

The costs can vary significantly depending on the scale and type of contamination. Generally, costs are categorised by the severity of the problem:

• Small, contained mould (e.g., a single wall section or small cupboard): £200 – £600 This typically covers cleaning, biocide treatment, and addressing a minor, localised moisture source.
• Medium contamination (e.g., mould affecting one entire wall, ceiling, or under the floorboards in a room): £800 – £2,500 This range accounts for professional containment, removal of porous materials (like drywall), treatment of joists/studs, and extensive air scrubbing.
• Severe contamination (e.g., multiple rooms or a large area affected by flood/leak damage): £3,000+ Costs increase significantly for major structural remediation, specialist testing, and full property decontamination and drying programs.

While the initial cost of professional services is higher than a bottle of bleach, it is an investment that protects your property value and, more importantly, your health.

Your next step: finding a specialist on Rated People

If you have a recurring mould issue, don’t just treat the symptom – eradicate the problem.

Our platform ensures you are matched with professionals who understand the complexities of black mould, adhere to best practice protocols, and can provide a permanent, guaranteed solution to keep your home safe and dry.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Removing black mould: professional techniques for eradicating mould spores permanently appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Few things cause a sudden chill of panic quite like a cold radiator and a cryptic message flashing on your boiler display. These letters and numbers are your boiler’s way of talking to you, signalling exactly what’s gone wrong. They are officially known as boiler fault codes.

Understanding these diagnostic messages is the first step to getting your heat back on, and often, it can help you determine if you need to call a Gas Safe registered engineer immediately, or if it’s a simple DIY fix.

The 10 most common boiler error codes (And What to Do)

The exact codes vary by manufacturer (Worcester Bosch, Ideal, Vaillant, Baxi, etc.), but the problem behind the code usually falls into one of these common categories.

1. Low water pressure (e.g., F1, E119, 224V)

This is arguably the most common and easiest issue to solve. Your boiler needs water pressure—typically between 1 and 1.5 bar—to operate safely.

• What it means: There isn’t enough water in the heating system, often caused by bleeding radiators or a minor leak.
• Your first step: Repressurise the system using the external or internal filling loop, following your boiler’s manual. You can safely top up the pressure yourself.
• When to call a pro: If you have to repressurise the boiler more than once a month, you have a leak that needs tracing and repairing.

2. Ignition failure (e.g., F28, EA, L2)

The boiler is attempting to light the gas burner but is failing to establish a stable flame, causing it to shut down for safety.

• What it means: This could be a problem with the gas supply, a blocked condensate pipe, or a faulty component like the ignition electrode or flame sensor.
• Your first step: Check if other gas appliances in your home (like your hob) are working. If your condensate pipe runs outside, check if it’s frozen—this is common in winter.
• When to call a pro: If it’s not a gas supply issue and a simple boiler reset fails, you need a gas professional to inspect the internal ignition components.

3. Boiler overheating (e.g., E130, E131, E125)

The boiler’s safety sensor has detected that the internal temperature is too high, leading to an automatic shutdown.

• What it means: Poor water circulation, often due to trapped air in the system, or a broken pump/thermostat.
• Your first step: Turn the boiler off and allow it to cool completely. Bleed your radiators to release any trapped air.
• When to call a pro: If the boiler overheats immediately after resetting, or if you frequently have cold spots on your radiators despite bleeding them.

4. The pump or pressure sensor fault (e.g., F.75 fault)

This is a complex issue, often seen on popular models like Vaillant or Worcester Bosch, where the boiler cannot detect the necessary change in water pressure when the pump starts running.

• What it means: The pump is either failing to circulate the water, or the pressure sensor is blocked with sludge or has failed electrically.
• Your first Step: Check your pressure gauge to ensure it’s within the 1-2 bar range. Sometimes, this code can appear if the pressure is critically low.
• When to Call a Pro: This fault code nearly always requires a Gas Safe engineer. Do not attempt to dismantle the pump or sensor yourself.

5. Fan or flue fault (e.g., F3, C6)

The fan is essential for moving harmful combustion gases up and out of the flue. If the fan isn’t running correctly, the boiler won’t fire.

• What it means: The fan motor is faulty, a wire is disconnected, or the flue is blocked.
• Your First Step: You can safely inspect the external flue terminal to ensure it is clear of debris (leaves, nests, etc.).
• When to Call a Pro: Any internal work on the fan or electrics is strictly for a qualified engineer.

6. System lockout (e.g., A1, E168)

A general boiler lockout code indicates the boiler has failed to fire or run successfully multiple times and has shut down as a safety measure.

• What it means: The boiler has encountered a fault too many times, and requires intervention before it can start again.
• Your first step: Press the reset button on your boiler (usually marked with an ‘R’ or ‘Reset’).
• When to call a pro: If the boiler goes into lockout immediately after a reset, the underlying fault is serious and persistent.

7. Sensor/thermistor fault (e.g., F4, F5, F72)

Sensors (thermistors) are small components that measure water temperature. If they fail, the boiler can’t regulate heat and will shut down.

• What it means: A flow or return sensor has short-circuited, is damaged, or is giving inconsistent readings.
• Your first step: Visually inspect any external wiring you can see for obvious signs of damage.
• When to call a pro: Sensor replacement and wiring checks are complex jobs that require a professional engineer.

8. Gas valve fault (e.g., F61, F62)

This fault relates to the valve that controls the flow of gas to the burner.

• What it means: The gas valve is not opening or closing correctly, or the boiler’s PCB (Printed Circuit Board) is not communicating with it.
• Your first step: Check your gas supply. If you’re on a pre-paid meter, ensure you have credit.
• When to call a pro: Any fault concerning the main gas components or electrics is highly dangerous and requires a Gas Safe engineer to diagnose and repair.

9. PCB/electronics fault (e.g., F9, F.63)

The PCB is the ‘brain’ of your boiler. When it fails, the boiler can’t process information from sensors or communicate with components.

• What it means: An internal component or the board itself has failed.
• Your first step: Try resetting the boiler once. Sometimes, a power surge can cause a temporary communication error.
• When to call a pro: A permanent PCB fault means the boiler needs a new circuit board—an expensive repair that should only ever be carried out by a qualified expert.

10. Low mains voltage (e.g., F7, F07)

This typically occurs after a localised power cut or if there’s a temporary issue with your home’s mains electrical supply.

• What it means: The voltage supply to the boiler is too low for safe operation.
• Your first step: Wait for 10-15 minutes and try the reset button again. If other appliances in your home are flickering, contact your energy provider.
• When to call a pro: If your neighbours’ power is fine and the boiler remains locked out, a trusted engineer can check the internal fuse and wiring.

When is the boiler reset button not working?

A key takeaway for homeowners is understanding when to simply press the reset button and when to pick up the phone.

The boiler reset button not working is a strong indication that the issue is persistent and requires professional intervention. The reset button is designed to clear a temporary boiler lockout code and try again, but a fault like the F.75 fault will often cause the boiler to re-lockout immediately after a reset if the underlying hardware (like the pump or sensor) remains broken.

Never attempt to:

• Remove the boiler casing.
• Touch any internal electrical components.
• Bypass safety features.

Boilers work with gas and electricity, making them inherently dangerous to work on without the proper qualifications. Your safety and the health of your home depend on using a certified professional.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post A homeowner’s guide to the 10 most common boiler error codes appeared first on Rated People Blog.

Hearing strange sounds coming from your central heating system can be unsettling. While some noises are normal—the gentle hum of the pump, or a quick click during ignition—a sudden, loud, or persistent sound is your boiler’s way of asking for help.

If your boiler is making noise, identifying the sound is the first step to diagnosing the problem. Here are 7 common boiler noises, what they usually mean, and whether you can fix them yourself or need a trusted, Gas Safe-registered engineer.

1. Kettling or whistling (the boiling kettle sound)

This is one of the most common and distinct noises a boiler can make. It sounds exactly like a kettle reaching boiling point—a high-pitched whistling noise from the boiler, sometimes accompanied by a low, persistent rumble.

2. Banging or booming (The “water hammer” effect)

A loud, sudden banging noise is often alarming. In many cases, this is an extreme version of kettling where the steam bubbles are so large they collapse violently.

3. Gurgling (running water sound)

If you hear a persistent, trickling, or loud gurgling sound coming from your boiler or pipes, you’re likely dealing with trapped air or blockage.

4. Clicking or zapping (Excessive)

It’s normal to hear a click when your boiler ignites or switches off. Excessive, continuous, or loud clicking, however, is a warning sign.

5. Humming or buzzing (excessive vibration)

A faint hum is normal, especially in modern boilers. A loud, excessive, or vibrating that resembles a buzz or loud drone points to a mechanical issue.

6. Hissing

While sometimes confused with the early stages of kettling, a persistent hissing sound can also point to a system under strain.

7. Rattling or grinding

These metallic sounds suggest internal friction or a component hitting the casing.

When to call a Gas Safe-registered engineer

While you can troubleshoot simple fixes like bleeding radiators or thawing a condensate pipe, many of these noises point to serious internal issues that require professional attention.

You must call a Gas Safe-registered engineer immediately if:

• You hear a banging or booming sound on ignition (delayed ignition).
• The kettling or whistling noise persists after checking pressure and bleeding radiators.
• You notice any smell of gas, carbon monoxide, or an electrical burning smell.
• The noise is accompanied by a leak, low pressure, or a complete loss of heat.

Ignoring a strange noise, especially those related to scale build-up or ignition issues, will reduce your boiler’s efficiency, increase your energy bills, and ultimately lead to a costly breakdown.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

The post Kettling, gurgling, and whistling: Decoding the 7 strange noises your boiler is making appeared first on Rated People Blog.