The finish you apply to any piece of timber—be it structural cladding, a piece of custom furniture, or a floor—is a critical layer of engineered protection. Its purpose is threefold: to enhance the aesthetic, to protect the wood from moisture ingress, and to guard against physical wear, UV degradation, and fungal attack. Choosing the wrong finish can lead to costly and frustrating failures, such as peeling, warping, or discolouration.

Penetrating finishes: Stains and oils (aesthetic enhancement)

These finishes absorb into the wood fibres rather than sitting on the surface. They colour the wood while leaving the tactile feel and texture of the grain intact.

1. Wood Stains

Stains contain pigments designed to change the colour of the wood, mimicking more expensive timbers (like mahogany or walnut) or simply adding depth.

• Oil-Based Stains: Offer deeper, more consistent penetration and tend to dry slower, giving you more time to work. They are often used outdoors as they work well on rough-sawn or pressure-treated timber. Crucially, they offer little to no protection against moisture and must be topped with a clear protective sealant.
• Gel Stains: Thicker consistency, which makes them easier to apply vertically without runs. Excellent for fibreglass or difficult-to-stain woods like pine.
  

2. Natural Oils (Danish, Tung, Linseed)

Oils penetrate deeply to “feed” the wood, enhancing the natural grain structure and providing a level of water resistance. They don’t form a brittle surface film, so they are easy to repair—a quick re-application is all that’s needed.

• Best for: Interior furniture, kitchen worktops (Tung oil is often food-safe), and chopping boards.
• Maintenance: Requires regular re-oiling (annually for high-traffic areas) but the process is simple and requires no stripping.

Film-forming finishes: Varnishes and lacquers (durable protection)

These products dry to form a durable, continuous film on the surface of the timber, acting as a complete physical barrier against wear and moisture. They offer superior durability over oils but can chip or scratch, requiring stripping before re-application.

1. Polyurethane (PU) Varnish

The workhorse of modern clear finishes, offering exceptional resistance to scratches, abrasion, chemicals, and water.

2. Specialist Varnishes

• Marine Varnish: Formulated for flexibility and UV resistance, crucial for exterior wood exposed to extreme sunlight and temperature fluctuations. It contains UV stabilisers and allows the wood to expand and contract without cracking the film.
• Epoxy Finishes: Used as a clear sealant or grain filler, often applied before a PU topcoat. Creates an extremely tough, chemical-resistant surface, ideal for garage floors or industrial workbenches.

Opaque finishes: Paints and wood preservers (full sealing)

Paint offers the highest level of surface protection by completely sealing the wood, making it the most reliable choice for exterior elements constantly battered by the UK weather. However, it entirely conceals the natural grain.

The crucial role of priming

A professional paint job on timber always begins with preparation, specifically a high-quality primer.

• Primer Function: Primer seals the porous end-grain and, most importantly, locks in the natural oils (resins) contained in wood knots, particularly in softwoods like pine.
• Knotting Solution: For softwood, a shellac-based knotting solution applied directly to the knots is mandatory before priming. This prevents the resin from ‘bleeding’ through and yellowing the final paint layer months or even years later.

Exterior paints

• Microporous Paint: Modern exterior timber paint is often microporous. This means it is water-resistant on the outside but allows the wood to “breathe” (i.e., allow trapped moisture vapour to escape from the inside). This prevents the paint film from blistering, peeling, or cracking—a common failure point of old, non-microporous gloss paints.
  • Best for: All exterior cladding, window frames, doors, and garden sheds.

By selecting your finish based on the required level of protection and the wood’s intended use—not just the colour—you ensure a professional result that will stand the test of time.

Finding vetted tradespeople with Rated People

Connecting with a qualified local tradesperson who specialises in finishing can be done efficiently with Rated People. 

• How it Works: Rated People acts as a bridge between homeowners and local, reviewed tradespeople. You post the details of your job—e.g., “Need a joiner to spray-finish a new custom built-in wardrobe with water-based PU varnish” or “Need a painter/decorator to apply microporous paint to exterior window frames”.
• Quote Comparison: Once the job is posted, local tradespeople including trusted local carpenters express their interest. You typically receive multiple quotes, allowing you to compare prices and proposed methods.
• Verification and Reviews: With Rated People, you can access the customer review system. You can view feedback and ratings from previous clients to gauge the quality of their work, reliability, and professionalism before you commit to hiring.

By utilising Rated People, you move beyond guesswork and hire a professional whose skills in the art of timber finishing have already been verified by your community.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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In the UK, the terms ‘carpenter’ and ‘joiner’ are often used interchangeably by the public, but traditionally, they represent two distinct specialisms in the timber trade, each with its own focus on where and how the timber is worked. Understanding this split is crucial for budgeting accurately, defining expectations, and ensuring the right level of precision for your project.

The simplest way to think about it is geography:

• The Joiner: Works primarily in a workshop setting (joining pieces of wood) to make items that require precision, complex traditional joints (like dovetails or mortise and tenon), and a high-quality finish before they are delivered for installation.
• The Carpenter: Works primarily on site (the building itself) to construct and install the larger elements of a structure. This work is less about fine detail and more about structural integrity and practical assembly.

The two fixes: Structural vs. finishing

The distinction is most clearly defined by the concept of “first fix” and “second fix” carpentry:

First fix: The carpenter’s domain (structural)

First fix carpentry involves all the rough, structural work necessary to get a building to the plastering stage. This wood will often be hidden behind plasterboard or finished surfaces, so while accuracy is essential for structural safety, the aesthetic finish is not a concern.

Second fix: The joiner’s and finishing carpenter’s domain (aesthetic)

Second fix carpentry refers to all the aesthetic, fine-detail work that happens after plastering and before decoration. This wood is visible and defines the quality of the final interior. While a general carpenter can often handle basic second fix work, a joiner’s skill set shines here.

The joiner’s specialism: Bespoke manufacturing

A joiner is often the better choice when the solution must be crafted from scratch, tailored to non-standard dimensions, or requires traditional, interlocking joints for strength and beauty.

1. Staircases: Designing and building complex structures like cut-string or winding staircases, where precision joinery is vital.
2. Period Windows and Doors: Crafting bespoke timber sashes, casements, and full external door sets to match existing period features or to a high performance standard. This is a complex workshop job involving complex weatherproofing and drainage details.
3. Cabinetry: Manufacturing high-end, free-standing, or built-in furniture that involves veneering, routing, and complex drawer mechanisms.

Making the right hire for your project

Choosing the right tradesperson is primarily about assessing the core requirements of the job—is it structural or aesthetic?

Vetting your tradesperson: Essential checks

When requesting quotes, always ask prospective tradespeople these key questions:

1. “Do you have a workshop for custom fabrication?” If the answer is yes, they likely have true joinery skills beyond basic on-site assembly.
2. “Can I see examples of your fine finish work (e.g., scribed skirting, built-in units)?” This helps assess their attention to aesthetic detail.
3. “Are you insured for structural work, and do you have experience with relevant UK Building Regulations?” Essential for any ‘first fix’ or load-bearing carpentry.

By understanding that a carpenter builds the bones of the house and a joiner provides the beautiful, functional furniture and fixtures within it, you are well-equipped to hire with confidence and achieve a superior result on your next home improvement project.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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​​If you use a log burner or open fire, you’ll know that the quality of your wood is everything. Wet wood is slow to light, smokes heavily, and delivers a miserable heat. The secret to a perfect fire? Seasoning. And the key to great seasoning is a well-designed log store.

The four pillars of perfect firewood storage

A durable, well-ventilated log store is designed to protect your wood from the elements while maximising air circulation to speed up the drying process. Here are the core principles to follow:

When and how to call a carpenter

While the DIY approach saves money, hiring a professional carpenter or joiner is a smart investment if you value a flawless finish, require a completely bespoke design, or simply don’t have the time or tools.

When to hire a pro

• Bespoke Integration: You need the log store to integrate seamlessly with an existing garden wall, fence, or shed, requiring tricky cuts and non-standard sizing.
• High-End Finish: You want high-quality cladding (like cedar or shiplap), a tiled roof, or a build designed to be a prominent architectural feature in the garden.
• Time Constraints: You need the store built quickly, reliably, and with guaranteed quality without dedicating your weekend to the job.
• Peace of Mind: You want professional selection of the best pressure-treated timber and weatherproof fixings, often backed by a guarantee against rot.

Professional considerations and costs (UK)

Vetting your tradesperson

1. Get Multiple Quotes: Always get at least three quotes from different local tradespeople (using platforms like Checkatrade or MyBuilder).
2. Ask for Specifications: Ensure their quote specifies the timber dimensions they will use and the roofing material.
3. Check Previous Work: Ask to see photos of other external timber builds (sheds, decking, log stores) they have completed to assess the quality of their joints and overall finish.

Step-by-step DIY construction guide

This guide focuses on a typical UK-sized log store (approx. 1.2m wide x 0.6m deep x 1.5m high at the rear).

Step 1: Site Selection and Foundation Prep

1. Choose your Spot: Pick a location that gets a good breeze and a reasonable amount of sunlight. This is your seasoning engine!
2. Back Gap is Key: If placing it against a fence or wall, leave a small air gap at the back to allow air to circulate freely.
3. Create a Level Base: Lay a solid, level foundation. Gravel, compacted hardcore, or paving slabs are ideal as they allow water to drain away.

Step 2: Building the frame (The Bones)

Timber Recommendation: Use a sturdy, pressure-treated timber for the main frame.

1. Cut the Uprights: Cut your four upright posts. To create the essential roof slope, ensure your front posts are shorter than your back posts .
2. Assemble the Sides: Build two rectangular side frames and two rectangular base/roof frames.
3. Integrate Bearers: Before securing the base frame to the uprights, bolt thicker timbers underneath the base. These bearers are the sacrificial part that makes ground contact and elevates your store.

Step 3: Cladding for Maximum Ventilation

1. The Slats: Use pressure-treated boards for the sides and back.
2. Attach the Slats: Start at the bottom and work your way up. This is where precision pays off! Use a small piece of offcut timber as a spacer to maintain a consistent gap between each slat.
3. Slatted Floor: The base should also be clad with these slats, spaced slightly apart, to prevent logs from sitting on a solid sheet of wood and allow moisture to escape downwards.

Step 4: The waterproof “hat” (roof)

1. The Overhang: Construct the roof subframe so it extends at least 10cm past the frame on all sides—especially the front—to deflect rain.
2. Waterproofing: Cover the subframe with a robust, waterproof material.
   • Best Options: Overlapping feather-edge boards or a sheet of Exterior Grade OSB3 covered with quality roofing felt.
3. Secure It: Fix the finished roof securely to your frame.

DIY vs. buying: A quick cost comparison

While lumber costs fluctuate, building your own can offer significant savings and a higher quality product.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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In many UK homes, the space under the stairs is one of the biggest untapped storage resources. It’s often an awkward void, partially boxed in and used as a dumping ground. However, for a skilled carpenter, this area is a blank canvas for true space maximisation.

If you’re seeking clever storage solutions, the answer lies in bespoke joinery that makes the most of every complex angle and hidden corner. 

The transformation: From void to built-in storage

Gone are the days of a single, dark cupboard door under the stairs. Modern, bespoke solutions are multi-functional and highly ergonomic.

The most popular solution for the triangular space is a system of three key elements:

1. Full-Depth Pull-Out Units: The deepest part of the triangle (closest to the floor) is perfect for deep, heavy-duty drawers or pull-out steps designed to store bulky items like vacuum cleaners, sports equipment, or laundry baskets.
2. Tall Cupboard: The highest section near the main hall is ideal for coat hooks, tall boots, and utilities like the router or consumer unit. This can be disguised with a seamless, full-height door.
3. Shallow Shelving: In the middle area, shallower shelves can be incorporated, perfect for shoes, hats, and small everyday essentials.

By using a built-in design, a carpenter can ensure the finish is flawless, matching existing skirting boards and architraves to make the unit look like it was part of the original house design.

The wow factor: The secret door bookcase

If you want to move beyond practicality into pure theatrical design, a secret door bookcase is the ultimate bespoke feature. Often leading to a utility room, a pantry, or even a converted cellar, these doors require an expert touch.

A professional carpenter understands the engineering required for a functional, heavy-duty piece of furniture to act as a pivot door. The key considerations include:

• Weight Management: A full bookcase is incredibly heavy. It requires specialist heavy-duty hinges (like pivot or SOSS hinges) to manage the load without sagging over time.
• Concealed Mechanism: The carpenter must expertly hide the frame and hinges. They often use clever trim or facing to overlap the door’s edge, creating a flush, seamless look when closed.
• The Reveal: Whether it’s a push-latch or a cleverly disguised handle (perhaps a specific book or a hidden latch), the opening mechanism must be simple and reliable.

Going vertical: Pull-out steps and clever alcoves

Storage isn’t only about width and depth; it’s about height, too. In utility rooms, kitchens, or hallways, there are often vertical spaces that are hard to reach.

• Pull-out steps for high cabinets: A simple design feature that sees a set of robust, foldable steps built into a lower drawer, allowing safe access to the top shelves of very tall bespoke units. 
• Hidden Laundry Chutes: In custom wardrobe installations, a clever detail is a small, hinged panel built into the skirting or a drawer front that acts as a laundry chute, dropping clothes directly into a basket below in the utility room.
• Invisible Wall Panels: In a hallway, a wall can be panelled to create a clean, uniform look. Behind one of the panels, a carpenter can install shallow shelving for keys, mail, or a simple first-aid kit.

What to expect when hiring a hidden storage carpenter

These types of projects go beyond standard carpentry and require specialist skills in joinery, precision fitting, and complex engineering.

When commissioning your under stairs cupboard or secret door bookcase, ensure your professional can:

1. Provide 3D Drawings: Awkward angles need meticulous planning. Insist on detailed 3D mock-ups of the ideas to ensure they meet your exact needs before fabrication begins.
2. Demonstrate Finish Expertise: Ask to see examples of flush-fitting doors and cabinetry where the paint or veneer finish is flawless and matches the surrounding decor.
3. Confirm Hardware Quality: The success of any hidden storage is the hardware. Discuss the specific hinges, drawer runners (soft-close is a must), and latches they plan to use, ensuring they are heavy-duty and rated for long-term use.

By investing in a carpenter through Rated People, you can transform the overlooked spaces in your home into highly functional, beautifully finished features that look seamless and sophisticated.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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External wood cladding is one of the fastest and most effective ways to modernise, protect, and insulate a building. It adds significant appeal, turning a plain or dated facade into a striking architectural feature. However, choosing the right material and installation style is crucial for longevity, especially given the unpredictable UK weather.

This guide, based on the expertise of professional tradespeople, breaks down everything you need to know, from materials to finding a reliable carpenter for the job.

First step: Calculating the costs

The overall costs that homeowners might spend on external wood cladding varies significantly. It’s not just the price of the timber; it’s the preparation, the material choice, and the complexity of the installation style that all add up.

The material itself is the largest variable. You should factor in:

• Timber choice: Softwoods (like treated pine) are cheaper upfront but require more maintenance. Hardwoods (like Oak or Iroko) and highly durable modified timbers are more expensive initially but last decades longer.
• Installation System: Open-joint systems (where small gaps are left between boards) require extra attention to the waterproofing layer underneath.
• Access: If scaffolding or specialist access equipment is needed for multi-story work, this will increase the final price.

Always request a detailed, itemised quote from your carpenter that separates material costs from labour.

A breakdown of timber cladding materials

Choosing the right material is key to a successful, durable finish. Here are the materials most commonly used by UK tradespeople:

Essential installation styles

The way the boards are fixed—the profile—is what gives the cladding its characteristic look and determines how effectively it sheds water. When discussing the job with your specialist, you will hear these terms:

• Shiplap: Boards interlock with a rabbeted joint. This is a traditional, durable profile that creates a deep shadow line and is excellent at weather-proofing.
• Tongue and Groove (T&G): Boards fit snugly together, creating a flat, smooth, modern appearance with a very tight seal.
• Featheredge (or Weatherboard): Tapered boards overlap, with the bottom of one board overlapping the top of the board beneath it. This classic style is highly effective at shedding water and is ideal for homes in the UK.
• Open Joint: Boards are installed with a small, uniform gap between them, exposing the dark membrane underneath. This requires careful consideration of the backing layer and is typically used in contemporary designs.

The role of a skilled carpenter

Installing cladding requires more than just screwing boards to a wall; it requires the skill of a joiner to manage the details that ensure longevity and weather resistance.

1. Preparation is paramount: The existing substrate must be sound, and a breathable, waterproof membrane must be installed first.
2. Battening: An exterior specialist knows that two layers of battens are often required to create a ventilated cavity behind the boards. This is vital to allow any moisture that gets behind the cladding to drain out and evaporate, preventing rot and protecting the building structure.
3. Fixings and Detailing: Correctly concealing fixings, managing corner joints (mitred vs. cover boards), and ensuring drip edges are installed above windows and doors are the details that separate an amateur job from a professional one.
4. Expansion Gaps: All wood moves. A professional knows exactly what expansion gaps to leave between the ends of the boards and at the corners to accommodate this movement without splitting or buckling.

By taking the time to understand the timber cladding materials and installation nuances, you can hire the right tradesperson from Rated People and ensure your new exterior finish not only looks stunning but protects your home for decades to come.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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The rise of hybrid and remote working means the home office is no longer a luxury, but a necessity. But the classic problem remains: how do you stop the sound of everyday home life—children playing, washing machines running, or even just a partner on a phone call—from invading your video meetings?

The answer often starts with the door. While installing sound-dampening insulation in walls is a massive job, upgrading your internal doors is a relatively straightforward fix that can dramatically improve the acoustic quality of your workspace. Specifically, you need to consider a solid core door installation.

Why a solid core door?

Many standard internal doors are ‘hollow core’—they consist of a thin frame with cardboard webbing inside, covered by a thin veneer. This construction offers zero acoustic protection. Sound waves pass right through them.

A solid core door, by contrast, is dense. The internal structure is made of compressed wood fibre, engineered timber, or particleboard, making it heavy and thick. This density is the key to achieving real soundproofing.

Features of a solid core door

When talking to your carpenter about an upgrade, here are the key characteristics that define a door suitable for a professional workspace:

Understanding the installation

Installing a solid core door is not a simple swap. Because of the density, weight, and the need for tight sealing, this is a job best left to an experienced carpenter.

1. Reinforcement: Your existing door frame (or jamb) may need reinforcement to handle the weight of the heavy interior doors and prevent warping over time.
2. Hinge Upgrade: Standard hinges designed for a lightweight hollow door are insufficient. Your carpenter will install three (or more) heavy-duty hinges to support the door’s mass and ensure it hangs straight.
3. Acoustic Seals: This is the game-changer. For a truly soundproofed internal door, you need seals.
   • Perimeter Seals: Flexible rubber or foam strips are fitted around the sides and top of the frame, compressing when the door is closed to eliminate small air gaps.
   • Drop-Down Seal: An automatic seal is fitted to the bottom of the door. When closed, a plunger mechanism drops a rubber gasket down to seal the gap between the door bottom and the floor. This eliminates the largest source of noise leakage.

Internal door cost and value

This type of door is, understandably, more expensive than a regular internal door, but the return on investment in terms of comfort and productivity is immense. The price covers:

When researching, remember that a quick, cheap installation will likely miss the crucial sealing steps, negating the benefit of the expensive door. Always prioritise a tradesperson who lists experience with acoustic or fire doors.

Why professional installation is non-negotiable

A gap of just a few millimetres under a door can compromise acoustic reduction by up to 50%. This illustrates why you should hire a professional carpenter for the job.

A qualified professional will:

• Handle the weight safely: Solid core doors are extremely heavy and awkward to manoeuvre.
• Ensure a perfect margin: They will plane the door to ensure the exact, required margin is left for the acoustic seals to work correctly.
• Install the seals correctly: They have the expertise to route the frame or the door edge for the seals and install the complex bottom drop-down seal correctly.

Investing in a professionally installed, solid core door is the most effective and least disruptive way to reclaim peace and quiet in your home office, turning a noisy spare room into a truly professional workspace.

With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.

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