External wood cladding is one of the fastest and most effective ways to modernise, protect, and insulate a building. It adds significant appeal, turning a plain or dated facade into a striking architectural feature. However, choosing the right material and installation style is crucial for longevity, especially given the unpredictable UK weather.
This guide, based on the expertise of professional tradespeople, breaks down everything you need to know, from materials to finding a reliable carpenter for the job.
First step: Calculating the costs
The overall costs that homeowners might spend on external wood cladding varies significantly. It’s not just the price of the timber; it’s the preparation, the material choice, and the complexity of the installation style that all add up.
The material itself is the largest variable. You should factor in:
- Timber choice: Softwoods (like treated pine) are cheaper upfront but require more maintenance. Hardwoods (like Oak or Iroko) and highly durable modified timbers are more expensive initially but last decades longer.
- Installation System: Open-joint systems (where small gaps are left between boards) require extra attention to the waterproofing layer underneath.
- Access: If scaffolding or specialist access equipment is needed for multi-story work, this will increase the final price.
Always request a detailed, itemised quote from your carpenter that separates material costs from labour.
A breakdown of timber cladding materials
Choosing the right material is key to a successful, durable finish. Here are the materials most commonly used by UK tradespeople:
| Material | Pros | Cons | Best For |
| Western Red Cedar | Lightweight, naturally highly resistant to rot and insects, beautiful colour. | Expensive; colour changes rapidly to a silvery grey if not treated. | Feature walls and modern, high-end builds. |
| Siberian Larch | Exceptionally durable and stable; a cost-effective alternative to Cedar. | Can have a lot of knots; may require stainless steel fixings due to natural acids. | Large areas and those on a moderate budget. |
| Thermally Modified Timber (TMT) | Sustainably produced, highly stable (doesn’t warp), excellent durability. | Darker colour palette; specific installation requirements for maximum life. | Low-maintenance properties and exposed coastal areas. |
| Treated Softwood | Lowest initial cost; readily available. | Requires regular maintenance (staining/painting) to prevent rot; less stable than hardwoods. | Sheds, garages, or areas where budget is the main priority. |
Essential installation styles
The way the boards are fixed—the profile—is what gives the cladding its characteristic look and determines how effectively it sheds water. When discussing the job with your specialist, you will hear these terms:
- Shiplap: Boards interlock with a rabbeted joint. This is a traditional, durable profile that creates a deep shadow line and is excellent at weather-proofing.
- Tongue and Groove (T&G): Boards fit snugly together, creating a flat, smooth, modern appearance with a very tight seal.
- Featheredge (or Weatherboard): Tapered boards overlap, with the bottom of one board overlapping the top of the board beneath it. This classic style is highly effective at shedding water and is ideal for homes in the UK.
- Open Joint: Boards are installed with a small, uniform gap between them, exposing the dark membrane underneath. This requires careful consideration of the backing layer and is typically used in contemporary designs.
The role of a skilled carpenter
Installing cladding requires more than just screwing boards to a wall; it requires the skill of a joiner to manage the details that ensure longevity and weather resistance.
- Preparation is paramount: The existing substrate must be sound, and a breathable, waterproof membrane must be installed first.
- Battening: An exterior specialist knows that two layers of battens are often required to create a ventilated cavity behind the boards. This is vital to allow any moisture that gets behind the cladding to drain out and evaporate, preventing rot and protecting the building structure.
- Fixings and Detailing: Correctly concealing fixings, managing corner joints (mitred vs. cover boards), and ensuring drip edges are installed above windows and doors are the details that separate an amateur job from a professional one.
- Expansion Gaps: All wood moves. A professional knows exactly what expansion gaps to leave between the ends of the boards and at the corners to accommodate this movement without splitting or buckling.
By taking the time to understand the timber cladding materials and installation nuances, you can hire the right tradesperson from Rated People and ensure your new exterior finish not only looks stunning but protects your home for decades to come.
With Rated People, you have the power to get it done. Find a trusted, local tradesperson today.
