Home security tips

Burglars look for homes that are uninhabited, especially those that have been vacant for a number of days, suggesting the occupants are on holiday. There are some key things you can do to keep your house secure when you’re not there; either when you’re at work, in the evenings or when you’re on holiday.

If you’re going out in the evening it’s worth leaving a light on to deter burglars. If you’re on holiday or away a lot you should consider leaving your lights on a timer to come on and off in the evenings, this prevents the property from appearing unoccupied.

In some cases it will be common knowledge that you’re going to be away for a given period of time, for events such as funerals or weddings. Burglars will often keep up-to-date with these events by reading local newspapers so they’ll know who’ll be away at any given time. It can be advisable to hire a house sitter to prevent your home being left unoccupied, especially if you don’t have an intruder alarm to alert your neighbours should someone try to gain entry to your home.

If you’re not able to hire a house sitter you should ask your neighbours to:

1. Put your bins on the allocated day for rubbish collection and put them back the following day.

2. Park a car on your driveway – they’ll often be glad to have the offer of the extra parking space.

You should also consider how you will protect your valuables. The most effective way is to store them in a safe-deposit box that is very heavy and therefore difficult for the thief to move. It’s also worth investing in a fireproof deposit-box.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

How to save water

We use about 150 litres of water every day, it’s time to cut down on our water wastage.

Bathroom

Turn off the water when you brush your teeth, you can save 6 litres of water per minute by simply turning off the taps. Also ensure that your taps aren’t leaking, as dripping taps can waste 5,500 litres of water a year. Worn washers might be the culprit, so keep changing them whenever your tap shows signs of leakage. You can also save 70% of your normal water usage by installing low-flow aerators to your taps.

By taking a shower you save up to 35 gallons of water compared to taking a bath. However, the key is to invest in an efficient shower head and of course, minimise the time you spend in the shower. 5 minutes will typically use 35 litres of water. To test if you should install a more efficient showerhead, place a 2 litre bucket on the floor of your shower. If it fills up within 12 seconds or less, it’s time to invest in a new one. An aerating showerhead mixes air with water, which gives it great water saving benefits. Attach one to your faucets (especially a power shower) and you can start saving on bills. Also keep an eye out for appliances with the Waterwise Marque level, which indicate that it’s a water efficient product.

Modern toilets (toilets installed after the mid 90’s) have cinterns, which use 1-2 litres of water with every flush. Compare that to toilets installed before 1993, which uses 9.5 litres per flush and you understand that there are plenty of savings to be had. With a modern low-flow toilet an average family of four can save around £56 a year. Placing pebbles or a bottle of sand in the tank will also reduce the amount of water that you use.

Kitchen

Turn the taps off when you’re doing the washing up and don’t boil more water than you need for the kettle. You should also cover pots and pans with lids when you’re cooking, as the cooking time will be a lot shorter.

Modern dishwashers use less water than washing up by hand, but you need to save up a load first and not run the dishwasher half full. An energy-efficient dishwasher will use about 4.5 gallons of water, whereas washing up by hand can use up to 20 gallons of water.

Garden

Rather than using the garden hose to water your plants, place a bucket underneath your shower while it’s warming up. You can also collect rain water in a water butt, but remember to raise it slightly so you can fit a watering can under the tap. Another way to collect water for your plants is to rinse fruit and vegetables in a bowl, rather than washing it under running water. The water in the bowl can then be used to water the house plants.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

Securing windows and doors

Windows and doors are how most thieves gain entry to homes. It’s therefore important to make sure yours are safe as failure to secure them properly can invalidate your insurance policy.

Secure doors

1-inch throw deadbolt locks should be installed on all exterior doors. A door with too much space around the door and the frame makes it easy for a burglar to gain access to your property, by breaking in using a ‘jimmy’. To close the gap, reinforce the door with plywood or a piece of sheet metal.

If the hinges are on the exterior of the door a burglar can simply knock out the hinge pins and gain entry. To prevent this from happening, remove the door and replace the hinges on the inside of the door.

Glass doors are particularly vulnerable to breaking and entering. A burglar only has to break a glass panel to gain entry from the doorknob on the inside of the door. Glass panels within doors should be fortified to prevent them breaking easily. They should also be secured with deadbolts, or preferably replaced with a solid wood or uPVC door.

Secure windows

Windows should be secured with locks, especially any windows on the ground floor. Alarm systems that raise the alarm when a window is opened are a very effective method, while burglar-resistant glass prevents burglars gaining easy entry by simply breaking a pane of glass. Installing small panes instead of one large area of glass can also be wise.

The screw heads on window locks should be soldered when installed. This will stop a burglar from cutting a small hole in the windowpane and unscrewing the locks to gain entry.

Change the locks

If you’ve recently moved house, ask yourself who else has keys for your home. Changing your locks is simple and easy and if nothing else, is worth the hassle for peace of mind.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

Different types of locks

There are number of different varieties of locks for doors and windows. It’s important to choose a good quality lock and one that is recognised as suitable by your insurance company.

It’s not good enough to simply install a high quality lock, however, the door has to be in good condition to make the lock effective too. For example wooden doors should be 44mm thick and glass doors can be strengthened with laminate, or a film over the glass, making it harder to break.

Mortice lock

Mortice locks are ‘morticed’ into the door. The more levers a lock has the more secure it is. A 5-lever mortice lock is recommended as it will add strength to the door. For insurance purposes install a British Standard BS3621 lock, this type has been tested for its burglar resistance.

If you’re replacing a mortice lock you should make sure you select one of equal size so it fits into the same hole in the door. Mortice locks come in sashlock or deadlock varieties. Sashlocks are usually used on back doors, these locks have latch and a bolt – the latch is operated by a handle and the bolt with a key. Deadlocks are typically used on front doors along with a night latch and only have a bolt, which is operated by a key.

Cylinder lock

Euro cylinders form part of many types of locks. These types of locks are most commonly found on uPVC doors and sometimes within mortice locks in timber doors. If you’re moving house these are a particularly easy locks to change, remember to check the type and size of cylinder required.

There are three types of cylinder locks:

1. Single cylinder – this type of lock offers key access from one of the locks only.
2. Double cylinder – offers key access from both sides of the door.
3. Double cylinder with thumbturn – euro profile thumbturn cylinders give key access from one side of the door and a thumbturn from the other side.

Nightlatch

This type of lock is mounted on the door, rather than morticed into it and the size of the latch required depends whether you’re fitting it to a panelled door, as well as the position of the keyhole from the edge of the door.

Nightlatches come in two sizes, 40mm or 60mm. There’s a huge variety of nightlatches on the market, if you’re securing an external door you should use a British Standard nightlatch to ensure a high level of security.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

How to prevent frozen pipes

You don’t have to do much to prevent your pipes from freezing. A few simple tricks will do the job and ensure there are no burst pipes to deal with in the colder months.

Exposed pipes, such as those located on an outside wall, are most prone to freezing. Pipes within cupboards can also be susceptible to freezing as heat never reaches beyond the closed cupboard doors. Open the doors and let air circulate within the space and add a small heater to warm up the pipes. If you go on holiday, keep a low temperature on throughout your time away (or switch the heating on intermittently), as otherwise this might cause the pipes to quickly freeze and burst. A good tip is to check whether your boiler have a frost protection thermostat that turns on when the temperature drops.

Insulating problem areas is also a quick and cheap solution to prevent the problem getting worse. Wrap your pipes in foam insulation (lagging) to tackle the problem pipe, insulate the water tank,  as well as the loft space. The thicker the lagging, the better. If you’re expecting extreme freezing temperatures, you can drain the water system, since the pipes won’t be able to freeze. You can also drain your outside tap.

If a pipe has frozen despite your best efforts, there are a few tricks to thaw it. First things first, don’t ever be tempted to use a naked flame against the pipe. Instead, use a hair dryer, a heat lamp for exposed pipes, or a small portable heater, for pipes underneath cabinets. Electrical heat tape can also work; this method allows you to wrap the pipe with a tape, which you plug into the wall. The heat tape warms up the pipe, while you use a thermostat to control the temperature. You need to be extremely careful however, when dealing with electricity and water as you might get electrocuted. Preferably you should hire and consult a Gas Safe registered plumber.

Before you set off heating the pipe, you need to turn off your mains water supply (normally found under your kitchen sink). In fact, you should switch off the stop-cock the moment you realise the pipe’s frozen. If the pipe additionally has split, it’s best to call in the professionals; if it’s intact, you can attempt and thaw it.  Don’t thaw it too quickly though, as that might cause it to split, too. Always start thawing close to the faucet end of the pipe.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

 

 

Solar panels

Solar panels aren’t suitable for every home and there are some important aspects to consider if your thinking about installing  them.

Energy bills

During the day the energy generated by solar panels can be used for free and provides a viable alternative to traditional fuel types. When the solar panels aren’t functioning during the night you’ll need to use electricity as usual.

Solar panels can save as much as £300 a year on your energy bills, while being better for the environment.

Add value

One of the main benefits of solar panels is that they can add value to your home and make it more saleable. It costs between £4,500 – £6,000 per kWp to install solar panels. The average home will require a system of 2-3 kWp to make efficient use of a solar system. Not installing enough panels can be a false economy however, so make sure you install enough to meet your energy needs.

Unlike traditional boilers, solar PV panels don’t require much maintenance and have a long life span (up to 60 years). An annual visual inspection is recommended and the panels often come with a 25 year guarantee.

Clean energy

Carbon emissions are reduced by clean energy. Solar panels are a renewable energy source and therefore a better alternative than fossil fuels. Although the panels don’t generate energy at night even on rainy days they generate energy, as they simply require daylight, not direct sunlight.

Planning permission

Solar PV panels don’t require planning permission, providing your property isn’t listed or in a conservation area.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

The Party Wall Act

The Party Wall Act of 1996 ensures that anyone undertaking an extensive home improvement project involving any shared walls or foundations, need to give their neighbours notice (in writing) before going forward with any plans. The strict definition of a party wall is a wall that ‘stands astride the boundary of land belonging to two (or more) different land owners’. The wall could be part of a building, separate two (or more) buildings, or consist of a party fence wall. It could also be a party structure, for instance, a floor partition.

The act gives cover if you’re excavating within 3 or 6 metres of a neighbouring building or structure; a new building at the boundary line between properties; or other projects that affect the existing party wall or structure. Such projects could include: to insert a damp proof course, to raise the height of a party wall, or to demolish or repair a party wall.

You generally don’t have to give any notice if the work you’re planning on undertaking is minor, such as removing old plaster and replastering, or fixing plugs and screws for shelving. What you need to bear in mind however, is what affect, whatever your project may be, will have on the structural strength and support function of the party walls. If it could cause damage you need to keep your neighbours informed.

The Party Wall Act is not something to neglect and should you fail to give notice to your neighbours (or those affected such as a landlords or freeholders) and you start work anyway, your neighbours can then prevent your work from continuing through a court injunction. A neighbour can also prevent your builders from working certain hours.

When you serve your notice, you need to include a full description of what you plan to undertake. The notice is valid for a year, so don’t wait too long to alert your neighbours, at least two months before you start the project should suffice. It’s always best to discuss the project in person before you service notice to avoid giving your neighbours any nasty surprises!

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

 

 

Annual roof maintenance jobs

Roofs are often neglected, but they should recieve annual check ups/ maintenance. Prevention is better than cure (a lot cheaper too) and this is certainly the case when it comes to roofing. A small leak, left unfixed, can do a lot of damage. To prevent a lofty bill arrising from neglecting your roof, you should check your roof for damage, leaks and cracks on a regular basis.

Guttering

It’s essential to keep your drain pipes and gutters in good order to prevent unnecessary damage being caused to your roof or the structure of your property. A build up of debris from trees and moss from the roof can cause gutters and drain pipes to become clogged, preventing them carrying rain water away from your house effectively.

Autumn is the best time of the year to clear your gutters – once the leaves have fallen from the trees and before any big storms. Clearing guttering is a simple job that should be done annually. It’s just a case of scooping out any debris and rinsing the pipes and gutters by running a hose pipe down them. This job does involve going up and down a ladder a lot, as the ladder will need to be moved every few feet to reach the next section of the gutter.

Clearing gutters is important to prevent flooding and damage to the structure of your home. You can also have non-return valves fitted to your drain pipes to prevent dirty water being forced back into your home during a flood.

Roofing repairs

Roof maintenance isn’t cheap, which is why many people tend to put it off. Some problems can be spotted from the ground, such as loose or missing tiles. Roof tiles often become loose after storms and from fallen debris. To save money people are often tempted to replace slipped or missing tiles themselves, but if a tile is replaced badly or others are displaced in the process, more damaged can be caused, resulting in a bigger bill to fix the resulting problems down the line.

The best time to undertake any repairs to your roof is during the summer months, for the obvious reason that the weather is better and there’s less chance of rain damaging the structure. It isn’t usually until a heavy rain storm that homeowners discover a leak. It’s important to get leaks fixed quickly to prevent them doing serious damage. Leaks can damage the structure of the building and in severe cases, the foundations of a property.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

Questions to ask before you start a basement conversion

Undertaking a basement conversion or excavation is a huge project and something that will cost a considerable amount of money. Therefore, it’s really important that you get everything right and plan ahead. Start by asking these questions.

What will you use the basement for?

If it’s extra space you’re after, or a new bedroom, you’re better off with a loft conversion. Really evaluate what it is you’re lacking in your house before you start the project. Basement conversions are ideal for cinema rooms, play rooms or an extra sitting room, as very little or no natural light will find its way in.

Is your home ideal for a basement conversion?

Get in a tradesman who specialises in basement conversions, they can assess if your property is able to be altered. The best properties for basement conversions are terraced or semi-detached homes, which are unable to extend up into the loft or already have been extended.

Victorian properties which have timber-suspended floors are also suitable, as this means work can be carried out from the outside and you don’t need to vacate the property while work is under way. If you need to dig more than 1.2m under your existing foundation you will need a specific type of risk insurance, ensure your builder has this.

Do you have planning permission?

As long as you convert an existing cellar and don’t change the structure and external appearance of the property, you generally don’t need planning permission. An excavation is different however, especially if you’re adding a light well. In all cases you need to apply for Building Regulations, which cover fire escape routes, ceiling height, damp proofing, ventilation and electrical wiring.

Have you given notice to your neighbours?

If you live in a terraced house and you share walls and foundations with other properties, you need to give your neighbours notice about the planned work. The Party Wall Act of 1996 will prevent any disputes down the line and in addition, you’ll be able to include your neighbours in your plans and manage their expectations throughout the project.

How will you replace natural light?

Think if your planned space will work without natural light. Light pipes (cylindrical shapes that use reflective surfaces to stream light into the space below), window wells (a double-glazed window that lays on the ground and passes light down to the basement), mirror-bases systems or  glazed ceiling panels might work particularly well. Bear in mind however, that projects like these will add a considerable cost to your final bill.

How will you damp proof the basement?

The key to a basement conversion or excavation is the damp proofing. Damp won’t be able to dry up in a space without direct natural light, so this is an essential issue to tackle. The best method is the water membrane system, although it needs to be executed flawlessly, otherwise it will still lead to a damp problem. Ventilation shouldn’t be overlooked either, as damp can create a musty smell in your property. Your builders will line the basement with a studded membrane, which is sealed to walls, ceilings and floor. Then a secondary wall is built inside this lining, made up of plasterboard, screed or a floating timber floor. A pump and drainage channel then ensures any water that seeps through the property is pumped away.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.

A guide to basement conversions

A basement conversion can be a fairly simple or a very complicated job, depending on what type of living space you have in mind. Basement conversions are good improvements when adding extra storage, a playroom or cinema room. Loft conversions, on the other hand, are usually used for adding an extra bedroom.

The easiest basement conversions are those properties that already have a cellar beneath the house. That way you are only changing the space, making it habitable, and you don’t need planning permission, however you do need to apply for Building Regulations, as with all structural changes. Should you alter the floor level, the project is classified as an extension and it’s very likely you need planning permission, too.

Converting an already existing cellar takes only a few weeks to complete, whereas an excavation can easily take several months. In addition, if a basement is to be built from scratch, some of the work might include digging out an area by hand, which will push the price up considerably. Should the soil need to be carried through the home, rather than via the garden, you also won’t be able to live in your property while the builders are digging.

The best conversions are those that create the impression of being on ground level. Natural light is the most important factor here, which you can recreate with faux windows, computer controlled lighting and solar tubes. A common trap is to continue to dig, creating a bigger space than you actually need. A good rule of thumb is to keep the basement proportionate to the size of your house. Don’t build more than 25% of the above ground floorspace.

A simple basement conversion, will cost around  £750-1,400 per square metre, roughly what you would expect to pay for a loft conversion. If you’re looking at something more complicated, you also need to take into account extra costs such as the digging, underpinning the foundations, diversion of drains, the ground conditions, as well as removing the subsoil. The cost would be about £2,000 – £2,500 per square metre for the structural work and fit-out costs would amount to £750-£800 per square metre.

The information contained within this article is strictly for guidance only. Rated People recommends that you always check current sources of information in case regulations have changed. Rated People cannot accept any liability for miscommunication of the law in the case of a change in regulation or any action done to a property based on the information held in this article. Rated People © 2013.